Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Crepe Sew-Along Supplies

Hey Crepe-Alongers! It's getting to be that time. Time to gather your supplies!

First, check the back of your pattern envelope for tools and supplies needed.


In addition to these, here are a few more things you might want:
  1. Dressmaker's tracing paper and tracing wheel. These are my favorite tools for transferring darts and other pattern marks.
  2. Underlining fabric in the same yardage as your shell fabric. This is optional, and really only necessary if your fabric is on the sheer or semi-sheer side. I like batiste to underline cotton dresses. The stuff I use is called Imperial Batiste, an inexpensive cotton/poly blend. (It's available at many places online; give it a quick Google. I buy mine at B&J Fabrics in New York for about $4.50 a yard.) Test your shell and underlining fabrics together in your hand to make sure they're compatible.
  3. 1/2 yard silk organza to stay your front and back neckline. We'll be using this method, which I'm officially obsessed with. Your organza should be a color that won't show through your shell fabric when sandwiched between two layers.
  4. A couple yards of medium weight muslin. We'll be making bodice muslins to perfect our fit.
  5. Tracing paper. If you need to make any pattern changes, it helps to trace off your pattern. You can use freezer paper, medical supply paper, computer paper taped together, whatever. As long as it's paper and you can trace things onto it, you're good.
  6. Tailor's ham. This is optional, but a great thing to have if you're pressing darts. A ham provides a shaped surface that mimics the body's curves.
  7. Fitting book. If you have a figure that requires a lot of alterations, you really should have a good reference on pattern alterations. I like Fit for Real People. I'm going to do my best to cover FBAs (full bust alterations), but I recommend having a text of your own.
  8. Pinking shears. I like to pink my facings on lightweight dresses for a bulk-free finish.
  9. Seam binding or bias tape. (Optional) I usually finish off my waist seams with Hug Snug seam binding.
  10. A slip. (Optional) If you're worried about friction against your tights, static cling, gusts of wind up your back wrap skirt, etc, etc., you should probably have a full or half slip ready to wear with this dress. Bonus points for a cute vintage slip. Double bonus points for one made from my tutorial!
I think that's it, lovely readers We'll have a fabric recommendation post coming up shortly from Gorgeous Fabrics, and I'm also going to make a video this weekend showing you some lightweight cottons in my stash.

Questions? Let's hear them!

43 comments:

  1. All the boxes are ticked. I've never used silk organza as stay before, so looking forward to discovering how!

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  2. Part of me wants to do interlining as I'm keen to learn it. But the fabric I might be using is a medium weight not see through so not needed because of that and I'm worried it migh add bulk. Am I better off ignoring the interlining or would I be able to get away with it? Sorry if it's a silly question.

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  3. Suzy:

    Interlining is usually used to make revealing fabrics opaque, or to provide body. If you're starting with denim and add interlining the project might become too thick. You might want to consider a lining instead.

    Which brings me to my questions:

    How hard would it be to line this dress?

    What lining fabrics would work? Bemberg? China Silk? More cotton? I used to have some Lily Pulitzer dresses that were lined with cotton.

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  4. Suzy, you could always underline with silk organza. That's probably the most traditional underlining, and it doesn't add any bulk.

    atelierflou, I don't think the dress would be too hard to line. I would use something silky like a Bemberg.

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  5. Did I somehow miss the post on the timeline of this sew-along?? When do you think it will be finished? I haven't got my fabric yet as I'm waiting to see if I can do a Christmas one or not...

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  6. Gertie,
    How much fabric should I buy?
    Thanks,
    Alison

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  7. Rachael, I haven't laid out the timeline yet. We will be done before Christmas though.

    Allypattern, look at the size chart on the back of the pattern (it's also on the Crepe page of the Colette website) and see how much fabric is required for your size.

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  8. I ordered my fabric online and it's not as thin as I thought, definitely doesn't need underlining. I am now hesitating if I should buy something else (I have to go out and buy silk organza anyway, I can't find it online anywhere in France). Fabric choice is a very difficult thing to me who only made simple kid's clothes out of cotton so far.

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  9. Fantastic! I have a super cute holiday red plaid print I want to get.

    *Newbie Question*... I'm sorry for being ignorant, but I'm looking at the pattern yardage requirements, and on the left side column there are 2 measurements given - 45" and 60". And then the yardages given... but I am confused, because the 45" measurement calls for more fabric - 4 and 3/8 for my size. The 60" calls for only 3 and 7/8.

    So... what does this mean!? Help! I assume the 45" and 60" refer to the hem length...? Do I need to add the two together and get THAT amount of fabric? (That can't possibly be right...)

    Sorry for being such a beginner... I'm sure this is a boneheaded question. I've sewed things before, but never something like this project! I am really looking forward to learning a lot! :)

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  10. Rachael

    45" and 60" refer to the width of the fabric. The wider the fabric, the less you need in length.

    Another common width these days is 54 - 56".

    But regardless of what it says on the pattern envelope, if you're thinking of using plaid, you'll need to match up your pieces and should probably give yourself a little extra. The same goes if you're using a directional print, in which case you'll probably need at least half a yard more than suggested.

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  11. Re-reading my comment, that 54 - 56" seems a little unclear. What I mean is you also get quite a few fabrics which are 54" wide, give or take an inch or two.

    So, if your plaid fabric is 45" wide, you'll need whatever length is suggested for your size, plus possibly some extra for matching up the lines of your pattern. Hope that's less confusing!

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  12. Thank you Gertie and atelierflou. I see now I wrote interlining instead of underlining. I might use silk organza.

    Rachael: the 45" and 60" refers to the fabric width (how wide it is). When you buy fabric it comes in different widths so for the same project you would need more yardage from a 45" wide fabric than from a 60", because the first is narrower. Does that make sense? When I started sewing that confused me as well and because it's so simple I couldn't find an explanation anywhere ;)

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  13. Hello! I'm thinking of making my dress in a soft double gauze (Kokka's red and cream russian dolls), any thought on will the fabric/pattern go with the dress? If so, any recommendations on what sort of interlining/underlining would go with my shell fabric? I'm very new to all of this so any help would be great!

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  14. Rachael: When you go to the fabric store to buy fabric, you tell them how many yards you want to buy (the length). However, the width of the fabric is already determined. So when they pull out the bolt of fabric, sometimes it may be as tall as your head, and sometimes it is only as tall as your shoulders. The most common fabric widths are 45" and 60", so that is why Colette patterns doesn't just say "buy 4 yards" because that may not be enough. Instead Colette patterns tells you to 'buy 4 3/8 yards if your fabric is 45" wide' and 'buy 3 7/8 yards if your fabric is 60" wide'

    I hope that is clear, and sorry to repeat other commenters, but if you are making a plaid dress, you generally want to buy a little more fabric, because you want the plaid lines to line up. A lot of times, the plaid clothing you buy at stores doesn't match at all, so that is a good reason to sew :)

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  15. Thank you for all the responses! Yes, that makes complete sense now!!! :)

    I'm off to buy my fabric now... thanks for the advice on the plaid issue. I might just wind up with a nice, festive red... as I said I'm a total beginner at sewing actual For Grown Ups apparel... I don't want to make it harder on myself than it needs to be!

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  16. I've heard that Colette patterns are drafted for a C cup, so links to a Small Bust Alteration would be helpful for many. I'm not in the sewalong but felt the need to represent my less-than-grapefruit-sized compatriots.

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  17. Naomi, double gauze will work great. You probably won't need to underline unless it's sheer.

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  18. I was wanting to make this Christmassy - would it work in a red cotton velvet, with silk for the ties, or would that be too heavy - sorry, I'm a newbie to all this!

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  19. I second the need for a small bust alteration.

    Hope you think of those of us that are less fortunate ;)

    Thanks,
    Melissa

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  20. Hi! I'm wondering if you think this dress would work with a lightweight wool? Or would it drape funny? and I guess then I'd need to line it?

    thanks for your help! I'm looking forward to this - I've been sewing for a while, but am a bit new to doing things properly to make clothes that a "grown-up" could wear!

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  21. Gaylene, I wouldn't do velvet as it is notoriously difficult to sew and press.

    Mollie, a drapey wool like crepe would probably work. But just fyi, I'm only addressing cotton in the sew-along.

    And yep! Will definitely be addressing the SBA. I will probably need one myself.

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  22. SBA tutorial suggestion: here's one from Sew LA that discusses the flat pattern method for the Colette Parfait. Helpful with lots of photos that gives a nice finish to the dress!

    http://sew-la-fabric.blogspot.com/2010/03/or-b-cup-alterations-for-colettes.html#more

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  23. Gertie, would a mens cotton shirting fabric work or would it be too stiff? I have such a hard time deciding on online fabric that isn't for quilts. :D

    Thanks!

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  24. another question... What is polyester crepe like? I found some that looks really pretty, and I'm wondering if that would work and if if feels nice? I don't really have the funds for anything fancy.

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  25. @Mollie

    I just made a dress out of poly crepe knit. It's a beautiful fabric, but it doesn't press (or wrinkle!) in any way. For me, it made the dress an absolute nightmare to sew, as I could never get crisp lines for hems, etc.

    You may be looking at a different type of crepe though, since I'm not well versed in much but cotton. :D

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  26. Katie, I think a shirting would be great! And comfy too.

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  27. Eek! I'm still looking for fabric. Everything that I love (and can afford) is a one-way print. The lay-out is multi-directional so a one-way won't work (for the stated fabric requirement). Being a + size I already need 4m!

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  28. Also, to the person that enquired about velvet, my above issue would also apply. So, anyone with a fabric with a one-way print, or a fabric with a nap, will have to add additional yardage to allow for this.

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  29. Please excuse what is probably a really silly question, but what is the difference between interlining, lining and interfacing? I'm so very confused. I have lined garments before, and and used fusable interfacing, but interlining? Please explain it to a poor confused lass.

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  30. Dumb question - interlining? Do you mean underlining?

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  31. Good source for Imperial Batiste

    http://www.baltazor.com/impbat.html

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  32. I am looking forwards to this ever so much, but I'm having trouble obtaining silk organza. Is there anything that would make a good subsitute? Would nylon/polyester organza do the trick?

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  33. Hey all, if you haven't found the perfect thing yet, don't worry. I have two more fabric suggestion posts coming up.

    Cyd, great question, and I'll do a post to answer it.

    Caryn, a lot of people use interlining and underlining interchangeably, and I seem to be one of them! I'll change it to underlining and try to be consistent for the sew-along.

    Isabelle, the tutorial I link to says that poly organza can be used in a pinch, but silk is ideal for this purpose.

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  34. Oh okay Gertie, I thought interlining was just like when you put fleece in between a shell and lining, like with the Lady Grey.

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  35. Any fellow sew alongers from UK know where I can find cotton batiste or a good substitute? Think I'm going with that instead of silk organza for underlining :)

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  36. Thank you, Gertie.

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  37. "You Say Underlining, I Say Interlining"

    Threads, Issue 135

    http://modules.taunton.com/apps/magazine_index/th?alpha=Y

    As has been said, the definitions aren't fixed. I'd use "underlining" in this case.

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  38. Suzy - if you look at cottonpatch.co.uk they have a section called utility fabrics which has cotton batiste and silk organza. Hope this helps.

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  39. Have boxes, after Wednesday, can sew!!!

    How do we participate in this sew along? I've never done one.

    Thanks!
    pr's crazygrad

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  40. Gertie, a belated question: "Test your shell and underlining fabrics together in your hand to make sure they're compatible."

    What does that mean? What does one do with the hand, and what signals compatible or not?

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  41. Gertie, will you detail how to underline for us fledglings?

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  42. I think I have found my fabric but I also think I will need to line the skirt as well as the bodice. WIll you cover a full lining or will I have to (gulp) have a go myself?

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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