Next, you want to baste the area between the roll line and the princess seam like you did on the side piece. As a reminder, use an uneven basting stitch in lines 2" apart from each other.
Now it's time for the pad stitching. I can just feel the mounting excitement in the blogosphere! (I'll turn you all into tailoring geeks yet. Just you wait and see.) Another video for your viewing pleasure:
Some general guidelines for pad stitching:
- Pad stitching is all about shaping! Keep a finger under the roll line as you stitch so that the fabric shapes into a fold as you stitch it.
- Don't pad stitch into the seam allowances.
- Don't worry if the outer fabric gets a little puckery; it will be on the underside of the lapel.
- When you get to the end of a line, don't turn the fabric. Keep it oriented the same as your last row, and just start stitching in the other direction. This will keep your chevron-shapes nice and neat.
- Your pad stitch length should match the width. So, where your rows of stitches are 1/8" apart, your stitch length should be 1/8".
A couple odds and ends to complete on the jacket front:
- This might be a good time to remove the hair canvas from your seam allowances on the lapel and coat front.
- Now, at some point, you also need to cut a window for the buttonholes. Just poke some pins through the buttonhole at each corner. This will help you locate your buttonhole on the canvas side. Connect the pins with chalk markings.
- Sharon also recommended staystitching through all layers at the armscye.
Now go pad stitch like the wind!