Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Tailoring Your Coat Front, Part One
Today, I want to show you the anatomy of your coat front and how to apply the hair canvas to your side panel. But first, I absolutely must thank my teacher Sharon who has taught me a ton and also helped me figure out how to present all this. There are various levels of tailoring, and different methods for all of them. So what Sharon proposed for our sew-along was a sequence of "light" tailoring done by hand. It's not complicated, but it will make a HUGE difference in the way your coat looks and feels.
Now, on to the anatomy lesson! Here are the key parts of your coat front. First, the lapel, indicated with a purple arrow here. This area is interfaced with hair canvas and pad-stitched by hand (we'll get to that later this week). As you can perhaps see, I've only just started my pad-stitching.
marked our roll lines? In the tailoring process, twill tape is applied to the roll line, which will help the lapel keep its lovely shape instead of flopping around like a fish out of water.
bound buttonholes? A little window is cut in the hair canvas to allow the button to pass through.
All that's left is the coat side and the portion of the coat front underneath the roll line. These are marked with the red arrows below. These areas are interfaced with hair canvas, which is basted to the fashion fabric with a permanent uneven basting stitch, which I'm going to go over today.
So cut out pattern piece B (side front) in your hair canvas, following the grainlines. (Note: it's advised that you pre-shrink your hair canvas by spritzing it with water and steam-ironing it. I tried this with mine, and it didn't shrink at all so I'm being bold and not pre-shrinking. But best to take the precaution.)
That's all for today, Sew-Alongers. Tomorrow I'll show you sewing the two front pieces together, catch-stitching your seam allowances to the canvas, and applying the canvas to your front piece.
Questions and suggestions welcome, as always!
P.S. One thing I should mention is that I've decided against the pattern's method of pressing the princess seams to the side and top-stitching them. My fabric is a bit bulky for that and the top-stitching won't show on the textured tweed anyhow. As you'll see in the next installment, I'm pressing my seams open and catch-stitching them to the hair canvas. Think about whether or not you'll want to do the same!