Sunday, October 24, 2010

Repost: Interlining for Warmth

Happy Sunday, sewing friends! I'm not interlining my Lady Grey, but I know some of you are. Hence, I wanted to draw your attention to this post from last winter on how to interline a coat for warmth. Enjoy, and let me know if you have questions!


Interlining is a subject that caused me a lot of distress when I was first approaching this business of sewing a tailored coat. But it all boils down to just two major things you need to figure out: 1) what kind of interlining to use and 2) how to attach it.

To figure out which type of interlining to use, I took a swatch to the store with me and tried layering it with a couple different options. I opted for lambswool, which is very warm and will keep me from freezing as I walk back and forth to the subway each day. Next, I decided to attach my lambswool interlining to my lining pieces and then sew them all together as one, which is the method my tailoring book recommended and it made the most sense to me. Watch as I demonstrate each step in this video!

I purchased my lambswool at Greenberg & Hammer here in New York. You can order from them by mail, if you're interested. Update: Greenberg & Hammer has sadly gone out of business, but lambswool can also be purchased by mail order from Steinlauf and Stoller.

14 comments:

  1. Great tutorial, and worth another look! I love that you interlined the lining side instead of the coat side--your reasoning made total sense.

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  2. Hello Gertie. Greetings from Germany. Love your 50´s style sewings. I will try one of it soon. Bye Annette. (Hope my english was correct, didn´t write in english for years)

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  3. I'm pretty sure I will be interlining my coat as well. I read the same tailoring book that you shared for info, but I was really wondering if interlining, do you need to make the coat a bit larger to accommodate inserting the interlining?

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  4. Hi Gertie! I have not joined the sew-along but I am learning so very much from you multimedia tutorials. They are giving me the confidence to try to put together a jacket or coat myself in the near future. Thanks a lot! Bye, Kaat

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  5. A little help? Where is the lambswool on the Steinlauf and Stoller website?

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  6. Faye, it depends on the thickness of the underlining you're using. Just a smidge extra ease should do the trick in most cases.

    Anon, your best bet is to call Steinlauf and Stoller. You can't order through their website, it's mail order by phone only. I know they carry lambswool in black and white.

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  7. thanks for reposting this, gertie! a question - do you interline your sleeves (i mean, in a general case, since you're not interlining the lady grey)? i know the tailoring book says not to, but it seems kind of weird to have an interlined body and no sleeves? what say you?

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  8. Gertie, I just wanted to let you know that I did a little post using the button you made for the sew along. I hope that was okay! I took a picture that reminded me of the photo from the button. I gave you a couple of shout outs too. =)

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  9. Thank you so much for this post, Gertie! On cold days it is so easy to opt for the warmer (but way less glamorous) parka. Now I will have a coat that is stunning AND toasty warm.

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  10. This tute has been SO helpful! And entirely timely, as I'll be finishing up my (non-Lady Grey) coat this week!

    One question: Do you do any sort of finishing technique (zigzag or serge) of the raw edges of your lining? If so, at what point? Before attaching to interlining?

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  11. As a follow-up, I found the answer to my own question!

    According to "Jackets for Real People", unless you're planning on washing (not dry cleaning) the jacket/coat, no seam finishing is necessary. Hope this helps someone else!

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  12. Hi Gertie, I'm following ths sew-along but just a little late! I was wondering - for the interlining, how would you handle the pleat at the back of the coat...did you just include the interlining in the pleat in the same way as the lining or something else? Thanks again - I have learnt so much already from you! Susan

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  13. To Travelling Soo - I'm at that exact point in my slooooow progress and was wondering the same thing. The reference book I checked said to omit the pleat in the interlining and to cut the hem off the interlining (Gertie's video isn't working so I'm not sure if she said to do that). So, sew the pleat in the lining, then attach the interlining to the lining. Good luck!

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  14. I realise this comment is super late, but in case anyone is doing a search I wanted to add that lambswool interlining is available at my local store, Gala Fabrics in Victoria. I would expect that the Vancouver store would carry it as well. Their website: http://fourseassilkcompany.com/

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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