Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Inspiration: 1954 Balenciaga Tweed Suit

Amid all the dazzling evening gowns at the Golden Age of Couture exhibit, I was struck by how much I was drawn to the tailored items. There is something truly amazing about the tailoring on ladies garments of this period, particularly those by the masters: Dior and Balenciaga. The suit above (which you can read about on the V&A website) stood out among dozens of spectacular suits. Obviously, the tailoring is impeccable. But more so, it's the design details that really make this shine.

The first thing you notice when you see this suit in person is the unusual empire seam line. Isn't it remarkable how that one little detail is so completely captivating?

In conjunction with the soft shawl-type collar, bracelet-length sleeves, and flared hem of the jacket, this piece is a real beauty.

I also found it funny that of all the amazing pieces in the exhibit, this was Jeff's favorite, for the sole reason that he thought it would look good on me. (Awww.) Of course, his reaction made me interested in trying to make my own version of this suit. But how? I showed this picture to my teacher Sharon, and after close examination, she said it looked like a panel jacket, meaning that there's a panel of fabric that goes down the side, rather than a side seam. Which probably explains how the torso shape is so impeccably tailored: more seams make for more fitting opportunities.

So I've been playing around with the idea of taking Butterick 5147, a current pattern, and making three key changes: 1) converting the side seams to side panels, 2) adding an empire seam, and 3) changing the collar shape to imitate the Balenciaga. Wouldn't it be lovely in a subtle lavender tweed?

Of course, this won't be happening any time soon, as I seem to be taking on quite a few fall projects right now. But it's another one for the inspiration file, out of so many that I saw at the Frist (and I'm eager to share more with you!).

In some other geeky sewing details, here's what the V&A says of Balenciaga: "He was adept at manipulating firm fabrics. The style of jacket relies for effect on careful fitting to the body in front and gentle fullness at the back, and in the setting of the sleeves. Balenciaga was renowned in the trade for inspecting and resetting sleeves that were not perfect." And also:  "Christian Dior once commented upon seeing a Balenciaga suit, 'Only Balenciaga would be capable of producing such perfection.'"

27 comments:

  1. Gorgeous suit. I think I need Balenciaga to come and re-set the sleeves on the trench coat I just finished - wrinkle city.

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  2. It's beautiful. And I think Jeff is right, it would look fabulous on you. I can't wait to see your version. Are those sidepanels going from the mid front to the mid back? Or are there four of them?

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  3. Setting in sleeves really is an art. Love that suit. Love those seams.

    Claire

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  4. You should pick up a copy of the book _The Spy Wore Red_, which is by Aline Romanos. She was an American spy in Spain during WWII and she frequently mentions the clothing she wore as a model in the U.S. and also the dresses he wore in Spain, including a formal gown by Balenciaga, I seem to remember. In any case, she married a Count, and remained in Spain.

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  5. I'm loving these inspiration posts from the exhibit that you're sharing! (Vicarious fashion museum experience, I guess. ;) rofl) This suit is amazing: Balenciaga's designs always amaze me with the skill and impeccable fit and flattery of the female form he was able to achiever. Truly fantastic to study (even from far away) and appreciate.

    Jeff is right: this suit would look gorgeous on you! ;) I think adapting the Butterick (or similar) pattern would be a good start... although my fuzzy memory of patterns remembers seeing something similar in my travels around the 'net awhile ago... So that could always be an option too. ;)

    ♥ Casey
    blog | elegantmusings.com

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  6. I know what you mean about being drawn to tailoring. Since tailored jackets aren't super useful in my lifestyle, I am focusing on coats. They are SUPER useful.

    Of course, in a parallel universe, I have enough time to sew everything I am drawn to and I sew jackets and work them in to my wardrobe and wear them all the time!

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  7. This was one of my favorite items as well. I couldn't quit staring at it!

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  8. I remember seeing this suit when I went to the exhibit...I too am drawn to impeccable tailoring skills more than just embellishment and surface decoration. There was one Balenciaga black dress there though, where the skirt was cut from the same piece of fabric as the back and the sleeves. What amazing works of art! Wouldn't you just love to see what the pattern pieces look like for those works of genious? Amazing...
    Another Balenciaga quote:
    "Balenciaga uses fabrics like a sculptor working in marble"-Cecil Beaton

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  9. This is a beautiful suit and Balenciaga designed some amazing garments. I hope you get to your version of it sooner rather than later because it will make a magnificent fall outfit!

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  10. I'm pretty sure any suit would look amazing in lavender tweed ... but hope you tackle this one specifically!

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  11. This is an amazing suit. I am sure I have one of the new "vintage," patterns from Vogue or something that is a lot closer to the original you are looking to reproduce. If you would rater not do all those alterations to the pattern you talked about. I guess you would still need to alter any pattern.

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  12. I love Balenciaga suits and I love this one. Nice to see the detail picture. I expected the collar to be cut with the bodice, like a sawl collar, but judging from the picture, it was set on separately.
    If you want a side panel, I would recommend going with a pattern that already has one. Good blazer patterns do. I made a blazer base from my side-seam sloper once and it was quite a bit of work to get it right.

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  13. Really sharp tailoring on womenswear is also a love of mine and yes, sleeves are an artform. One I don't think I'll ever master completely.

    My coat pattern for the sew-along (Simplicity 2812) has a fairly lumpy looking one-piece sleeve with a pleat at the hem, which I'm planning to replace with a more tailored two-piece sleeve. I really want it to be as sleek and tailored as I'm planning the rest of the coat to be.

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  14. Balenciaga was the one that really stood out for me at the exhibition - both the suits and the dresses. What is wonderful is being able to come here and discover a little about how these beautiful clothes were constructed and why... I do so envy you your sewing teacher! Which reminds me of what looked like a very straightforward Dior dress at the exhibition, which, the sign said, had such an elaborate inner construction that it required the services of a maid to get into!

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  15. thanx so much for sharing your inspiration pieces xx A joy to read

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  16. This reminds me of the stunning Going Away suit made for Princess Grace by Edith Head - unfortunately I can't find a good photo online. That is in a V&A exhibition too which I hope you will have the chance to see.

    You'll look like a Hitchcock heroine in your lavender tweed!

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  17. I've been dreaming about making some vintage-inspired fall suits, so this particular outfit is right up my alley.

    I can't wait to see what you end up making!

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  18. Lovely suit. I am drawn to more tailored items as well. I love the challenge of sewing them and I love the way they fit.

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  19. Gorgeous suit! It will look great on you :)

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  20. #Mrs Exeter - unless this is a different one you're talking about, wasn't Grace Kelly's going away suit Christian Dior? Can't find an online pic of it, but have the catalogue which shows her climbing onto a yacht for her honeymoon in a grey silk suit credited to Christian Dior-New York. The exhibition itself is quite small but does have a few interesting pieces (and suits!) in addition to more obvious ones (like the Edith Head Rear Window dress and the 'Simplicity' engagement dress).

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  21. That suit was by far my favorite. I must have stood in front of it for 10 minutes because there was always something else to discover. I would have loved to see more of Balenciaga.

    CarlaF-in Atlanta causeiwanna.wordpress.com

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  22. Such a beautiful suit. Thank you for sharing it. I friend of mine visited this exhibition and told me how wonderful it is but being far away in Tasmania I have to rely on the internet.

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  23. Oh yes, please make this suit. Lavender tweed sounds wonderful.

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  24. i think Dior once said 'My aim is to save women from nature' so true what good clothes will hide and accentuate. I live in Australia so the closest I am ever going to come to The Golden Age of Couture is the book and your blog, alas! So jealous. Good on you for taking on and conquoring such ambitous projects, you have inspired me to want to learn how to tailor. Petal Rose.

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  25. I may have just drooled on my keyboard. That is such a gorgeous suit! I want it!

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  26. #Nathalie, above -

    That suit is a puzzle - the exhibition had it labled as Edith Head, and I read in Edith Head's Hollywood she got it as a sort of consolation prize for not being chosen to make the wedding dress. But I've seen it captioned as Dior in another picture.

    Such a pity V&A didn't publish a proper catalogue of the exhibition - the book they produced is very nice but some top quality images and details of the exhibits would have been a treasure.

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  27. I just went to the Frist exhibit today and by divine intervention came across your blog. I was so overwhelmed by the divine deliciousness of the V&A collection, I asked my husband to drive me straight to the fabric shop. Garment construction and "become a better seamstress" have long been on my to-do list (right along with other impressive New Year's resolutions). Your blog gives me hope! Thanks!

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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