Saturday, July 10, 2010

Draping a Dress, Part Four: The Second Muslin


Well, the second muslin is made and I think it's looking pretty awesome! I made the changes I wrote about yesterday, along with your awesome suggestions to peg the skirt more as well as lengthen it. It's gotten quite wiggly! Joan would be proud. I also think the extra smidge of length in the midriff did wonders to make this more slimming. Hurrah!

There's a bit of a difference on each side of the bust. See how the right side is smoother than the left? I distributed the gathers over more length on that side and I think it helps a lot. I'm seeing a little twisting in the center of the bust, but I'm pretty sure that will resolve itself once both sides are symmetrical.


The back still has some issues. (Blerg!)


I took two tiny vertical tucks at the neckline, which you can see in this photo. But I think it has too much fabric horizontally too, if that makes any sense.

So I took a couple wedge-shaped horizontal tucks, and while it looks like a mess here, I think it will do the trick in the final pattern. Also, I think I'll add a pinch of ease to the back midriff.


The hips still look a smidge baggy while I'm standing, but I'm reluctant to take any more width out for fear of not being able to sit in this dress! I might just shave off 1/8" on each side.

What do you think? We're almost there!

33 comments:

  1. I think you're on the right track with the back, and I'm convinced you'll make Joan proud! :-)

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  2. Looking good! I agree about the tucks and the smidge more ease in the back midriff but I wouldn't worry too much about fine tuning the skirt fitting at the muslin stage. I'm a big believer in dealing with the fine issues of fit as you sew, so if you draft the final pattern with sufficient SA, you can make it fit well, look good and be practical in the final fabric (which is bound to have its own little quirks compared to your muslin) when you're actually making it.

    Looking forward to it!

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  3. It's so cool that you took a picture to illustrate the difference in fit where you changed the bust gathers. Because I like the look of the pronounced gathers against the seam, there's no denying that your fit is vastly improved by smaller gathers over more space, and that it changes the fit to be smoother all the way up to the shoulder/armhole area.

    Now will you trace your final muslin into a paper pattern, (because certainly once fitting is complete this pattern could serve as a midriff yoke sloper for you to make endless pattern variations from- full skirt, different neckline variations, changed sleeve lengths..)or will you move right into cutting your fashion fabric from the final muslin pieces? I can't wait to see you document the rest of the stages!

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  4. Oh WOW! The difference is intense! This muslin is super sexy on you!

    Agreed about the right boob v. the left. Man, this is amazing!

    It's really excellent to see how all the little changes add up. And it's no small shakes that you sewed a brand new muslin in what? A day or something? Wow.

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  5. It's really coming along beautifully. The front is looking great and by the time you've finished, I'm sure the back will be perfect too!

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  6. The dress is looking great. I agree with saving hip space for being able to sit. Otherwise, like Joan, you'll just be walking around the office all day getting the gossip and telling the girls how to type.

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  7. I'm a total newbie to sewing, but it's amazing to see what a difference the details can make. It's looking great!

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  8. I am just so in awe of what you are doing here. Love watching the progress....eagerly awaiting the next installment.

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  9. I am really enjoying watching the progress of this dress. I think the style is really good on you and I am thinking about how I could do this myself! Thanks so much for sharing.

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  11. Looks good! I love that style. I was wondering if it's the contrasting colors of the muslin and zipper, or maybe that the hips are slightly baggy, but the line of the zipper seemed about two inches too long. Could be just me. Regardless, it's an awesome dress. :)

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  12. This is looking AMAZING! I'm so impressed with your patience for the tweaks.

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  13. It looks fantastic, can't wait to see the finished product. I need to do some draping classes, I'm intensely envious of your fantastic skills!

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  14. Ditto Emmy on the final changes on the skirt waiting until you are on your actual fabric and

    Ditto Mary Poppins on the zipper length...

    How impressive is it that you are making this from the ground up?! OK not the ground...but you know...

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  15. It's looking really good.

    Trudy
    www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com

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  16. Wow, this looks really fantastic. You're definitely right about the gathers on one side versus the other! I can't wait to see the finished dress, you're going to look smashing!

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  17. this is fascinating, and as always, crazy super inspiring.

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  18. It's really looking good...is that a zip you have put in so it's 'easier' to put on (rather than pinning)? I see what you mean about the hip area on the side seam.. as you suggested shave a bit off the pronounced curve but maybe add a smidgeon back through out the whole pattern which would match what you thought to put in for the midriff ease which should get rid of those horizontal creases.

    BTW..been having a look at all your other projects..Fantastic..I don't think I would have the patience to make them the retro way. :)

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  19. I wouldn't worry too much about the hips until you make it up in your final fashion fabric. This totally has me inspired to learn draping!

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  20. Thanks Gertie for sharing all this. I would now consider a draping class, never thought I would. This muslin really shows how those little tweaks refine the garment.

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  21. It is looking fabulous. You and Carolyn amaze me with your dedication and energy and skill.

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  22. When I saw you in the muslin of part 3, I was not thrilled. It made you look... older...maybe even fat. When I saw the new muslin, I thought, Yeah, that's Gertie again, with all glamour :-)
    I guess that what muslins are for...
    Now I want to see the finished dress. :-)

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  23. Hi Gertie,
    Just bought the UK Sew Hip magazine and was delighted to see a pattern review by you. How fab!! I had a look at the burdastyle web and it has now been added to my sewing favourites. Thanks so much.

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  24. Wow! How amazing to be able to make the dresses of your dreams into a reality. Thanks very much for sharing all these insights into the process - I absolutely can't wait to see the finished dress!

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  25. Thank you so much for sharing this with us, it is truly inspiring to see how much difference the little details make. The second muslin looks so good, the difference between the two is amazing. You are always inspiring. Your dress is going to look gorgeous, especially in the polka dots fabric you chose (I have a thing about polka dots!)a

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  26. You have inspired me to drape! I am beginning this week on making a duct tape dress form (I have a dress form, but, of course, it doesn't resemble me very much!) and then I'm going to try my hand at it! Thank you for being such a fabulous inspiration! The dress looks great -- I can't wait to see it completed.

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  27. Looks great! I remember that a while ago, you posted about Emma Pillsbury's fashion sense. I just found this blog about finding the clothes she wears in shows, and I thought you might like to share it with others! Good luck with the rest of the muslin!

    http://wwepw.blogspot.com/

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  28. It's so cool to see how a tweak here and a tweak there really makes this dress into something that is perfect for you.

    If I were you, I'd make it up in every fabric imaginable; printed silks and cottons, tweeds and flannels, color blocked and patched, younameit. Put collars and trims on and off, pockets, cuffs, tucks, buttons. Endless fun!

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  29. I've always been a little nervous about draping a dress from scratch, but your posts have inspired me to have a go at it. Thank you! =)

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  30. Thanks so much for showing us how to do this. I have been sewing all my life and had no idea you could do this. It seems fairly simple if you take the time to make muslins. No more searching for patterns I can't find and that don't fit anyway. It's a whole new world!

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  31. Thank you so much for sharing....i use the same methods for dressform draping ,although i would like to suggest that instead of making horizontal tucks that you shorten the lenghth of the back...just a thought i wanted to share with you ,keep up the good work ;)

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  33. Nice post, i think you choose the right dress for yourself. For more beautiful prom gowns, you can have a visit at angeldress.co.uk

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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