Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Covered Button Tutorial

I like to use matching covered buttons on my blouses, and a few of you have asked for a tutorial on how to make your own covered buttons. I've hesitated up until now because all I did was buy a Dritz covered button kit and follow the instructions. Lately, though, I haven't been happy with my results while using slippery fabrics like silk or rayon. But over the weekend I discovered a really nifty trick that makes the process much easier and more professional looking. I'm really quite pleased with myself, to be honest. Read on to see the tutorial!

You'll still need a covered button kit (the ones marked "refill" are fine, you don't need the silly tools included in the basic kit). The first thing to do is cut out your circles of fabric, based on the pattern on the back of the package.

Take your fabric circles to your machine. Using a long basting stitch (4mm is a good length), stitch all the way around the edge of the circles, using a 1/4" seam allowance. Leave long thread tails. Cut off the upper thread tails, leaving just the bobbin threads hanging.

Pull the bobbin threads up, causing the circle to gather. Don't pull it all the way closed, just let it form a little cup.
Put your upper button piece face-down into the little fabric cup.
Now, pull the bobbin threads tight so that the fabric is snug around the button.

Keeping the threads pulled taut, snap the back of the button on.

Cut off the thread tails.
Voila! Lovely covered buttons.

That's all there is to it. I used these little polka dot buttons on a blouse made from Colette Patterns Sencha blouse. I'll model it for some pictures later, but here's a sneak peek of the back.

You'll notice that my version of this blouse has a little Peter Pan collar, which isn't included with the pattern. But guess what? Coming later this week is a video tutorial on drafting a Peter Pan collar yourself! I'm super excited about it, and I hope you love it.

P.S. Question: are you all able to easily get these Dritz covered button kits? Let me know if not. I'm sure there's a way to do this tutorial without the kit, perhaps using regular shank buttons and wrapping the shank in buttonhole twist or something? Hmm, I'll think on it.

37 comments:

  1. In the UK, self-covered button kits are widely available. I've seen them in John Lewis and in haberdashery departements of other shops. I'm not sure they're made by Dritz, though.

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  2. So excited for a peter pan collar tutorial! I was honestly searching for one just yesterday, and what I found left me with far too many questions. Can't wait!

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  3. Yay for covered buttons! I have being doing the gathering technique for a bit; I gave up on the way the instructions show the process after too many failed button covering attempts. ;) hehe! It's a little bit of extra work, but well worth the effort for the finished product!

    Can't wait to see your finished blouse--it's so darling from the sneak peek! :D Plus it has a Peter Pan collar, and you know I have a huge weakness for collars... lol!

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  4. Covered buttons are lush! I know Prym has a selection of Covering buttons with tool, which makes the sewing part unnecessary (unless one wants to be very minute). I've used them a lot, with great success. I know there's some etsy-sellers who sells only the tool (search words: cover button assembly tool).

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  5. Great tutorial, I've been wondering about that. I'm also looking forward to the Peter Pan collar - your blouses are totally cute and I've been thinking about making one... or maybe a dress with a Peter Pan collar. :)

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  6. Oh, and just one question: I've used the plastic covering buttons as well, but Prym only provides white plastic. Have any of you managed to get hold of the black ones? If not, I can always do what you did, Gertie, for the coat. What about a tutorial on that, covered button with covered back, or did you already have a post on how you did that?

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  7. I love the look of covered buttons, but never got around to ever doing any. I didn't realize how easy it was. Hmm...I know of a few projects that I might need to tweak ;) Super excited about the peter pan collar tutorial!

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  8. You can buy the kit at Panda in the Garment Center but they only include 3 or 4 buttons. However, you can buy boxes of the buttons from them. I think each box contains 100 sets of buttons. I went halfsies with a friend of mine and split the bill. The buttons come in different sizes.

    ~Sewjourner

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  9. I used this method recently to cover jumbo snaps. I didn't realize that it could be used for buttons too (thanks for bringing the obvious to my attention!).

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  10. I can get covered button kits at the Joanns in my punky little upstate NY town, so I would say that they are probably pretty readily available. I'll have to try this technique sometime... I usually apply some fusible interfacing to slippery fabrics before I make buttons out of them to prevent the warping and sliding around. Can't wait to see your Sencha! I'm finishing the hem on mine tonight!

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  11. Hey ladies! You know, I actually thought I devised this method myself . . . I guess I'm not as inventive as I thought!

    frk.bustad, I had the buttons for my coat professionally made. If your fabric shows through, though, you can put a circle of lining fabric behind your fashion fabric and stitch them together.

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  12. I have never used a "modern" version of the covered buttons. I always use the vintage Prims ones that I get at thrift stores.

    Anyhoo, the instructions say to WET the fabric first if it is slippery or hard to manage. I have never sewn my edges and get very nice results wetting them.

    I have used the little tiny ones (size 18-7/16 inch) to make fabric thumbtacks. Just cover with fabric, remove the shank, and hot glue to a plain brass thumbtack. Voila! Cute thumbtacks. : )

    I found TWO self-fabric belt and buckle kits the other day at the thrift store along with some little self-fabric buttons. Score!

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  13. Hey ladies! You know, I actually thought I devised this method myself . . . I guess I'm not as inventive as I thought!

    Yes you are! One time I wrote an article for a sewing mag and I said to my editor, I thought I had invented the idea that I wrote about but then someone pointed out that it had been published in a book from 1954. Her reaction was, "There is nothing new in techniques out there. People just need to be reminded of them." Sigh... no patents for me! :p

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  14. Gertie, I second what Gorgeous Things said! :)

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  15. I will sometimes use two layers of fabric or interface the fabric to give the covered buttons a look with more body and presence and to prevent that shine of metallic show through. Especially on light-weight fabrics, it's just a bit more professional looking. An FYI if it works.

    - Myrna

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  16. I didn't know it could be so easy. I love peter pan collars.

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  17. Thanks for the tutorial, in my hometown they used to sell covered buttons, I mean there used to be places where they did it, but unfortunatly, nowdays they don't do it anymore, they just sell the metalic button, but I'm gonna search in the web one, not the kit you mention in your post, but kind a machine they used to have to do that.
    Clothes looks great with those kind of buttons!!

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  18. Eeee thank you so much! I just purchased a vintage blouse pattern and have been wondering about making fabric covered buttons - the Dritz kits are everywhere here so that's good! Also excited for the peter pan collar tutorial, have lusted after your peter pan blouse for a while and wondered about pairing it with the sencha blouse :) you legend!

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  19. nice tutorial! I *think* I've also read of using a bit of double stick tape or glue to hold the fabric centered. But I'd be concerned about what laundering might do if either of those were used. Probably not an issue when using a heavy fabric, but on a thin fabric, I'd be concerned about it showing/oozing through??

    Chrys in KS - interesting tip on wetting the fabric - do you assemble the button while still wet?

    Myrna - when using 2 layers, do you stitch or fuse them together and treat them as one piece, or arrange 1 layer and then the other?

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  20. Ah, now I remember about the professional covered buttons you got for the coat... Such facilities are just so beyond what we can get where I live, so self covering buttons are the nearest.

    JustGail: I've also used two layers on thin fabrics, to avoid the shine from the metal shine through the fabric. It worked very well without attaching the two layers together, I just lay them on top of each other on bias (so that the density of the threads would increase), and into my covering tool they went. I guess that'll work fine also if you choose to sew them together like in Gertie's tutorial.

    One suggestion for the purpose of wetting the fabric: I guess that's for shaping the fabric around the button, and when it dries, it'll gather more tight to the button?

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  21. I like using the prym ones we get here in the UK. they are plastic so I dont worry about them rusting or rough metally edges catching or ripping fabric. And they come in so many different sizes too. I love covering buttons for my stuff.

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  22. Your directions gave me one of those "Why didn't I think of that?" moments. I usually use the kit but, boy, if you don't press the back on just so, you can end up with tucks or wrinkles. And once the back is on, it's impossible to get off. I'll try your technique next time. Thanks!

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  23. I also love covered buttons. If you don't feel like all the stitching a little amount of water on the fabric before stretching over the button it dries fantasticly and cuts down on the slipping. But I love your idea as well.

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  24. Hey Gertie,
    I thought some of your readers who can't find the Dritz kits might find this tutorial (written by BurdaStyle member MarmotaB) useful:

    http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/fabric-covered-buttons

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  25. I love your blog!!

    I discovered you over on BurdaStyle a long time ago,a nd I'm sorry I've never posted before, but I actually have something useful to say (other than gushing over you, your style, your creations, skills, insights, etc.) I bought a sampler kit from CoverButtons and I think hey are the absolute best covered buttons I've ever used. One hint, with sher-ish fabric these metal buttons, I like to use a bit of solid-colored fabric underneath to hide the "shine through."

    I cannot wait to see your video tutorial later. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the web!

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  26. You are brilliant. Such a tiny tip that makes all the difference in the end result. Thank you so very much for sharing. Keep creating...

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  27. Just because someone else has already thought of it, doesn't make it any less important to have arrived at the idea on you own. Or so at least my professor used to say in univ. =)

    Great tutorial! Thank you! I've been wanting to make my own buttons, but has hesitated. I got a prym-set from Christmas, so now I'm really itching to try it!

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  28. JustGail: Yes, you wet the fabric and assemble that way. Exactly as frk.busted said, it helps to smooth the edge wrinkles as the wet fabric will stretch and then shrink as it dries. I think it helps especially on the little tiny buttons. : )

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  29. What a super clever idea! I always buy vintage covered button kits & refills whenever I come across them as they used to have a wider variety of shapes & sizes...and they are usually cheaper than the new ones available in craft stores!
    ~Christine H.

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  30. Not only is the tutorial great, but so are the helpful comments! I have been making covered buttons using the "wing and a prayer" method, so about half come out wonkey and need to be tossed out. Now I have several tricks I can try to make them all come out perfect, every single time and on purpose!! Thanks for posting this!!

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  31. I've used covered buttons quite a lot (the little ones) for children's coats, etc. I always liked the Maxant brand of covered button better. They are a little harder to find but the little teeth that grab the fabric do a better job and I never had one to come apart.

    JoanieR

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  32. Yay for the tutorial. I am sitting here finishing off my buttons and they look great. I even managed to find ones with the brass backs (I hate the look of the plastic ones).

    Thanks for saving my bacon!

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  33. Thanks - that made it so much easier ...

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  34. Thanks for the tip. I followed it and added that I interfaced (very lightweight) my fabric (linen) first to discourage fraying.

    Also I added a dab of glue to the inside before snapping on the button back for extra insurance.

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  35. I've used the white plastic self-cover buttons and rather than faff about with lining (I'm not very patient with fiddly things!) when the white plastic shows through I just colour the button face using waterproof colouring pens from my kids' pencil case! You can match the colour to your fabric and if you can't find the black self-cover kits you can convert your white one in a minute! Works a treat but make sure the ink is waterproof!

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie

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