tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post9121710179951632070..comments2024-03-14T16:03:32.434-04:00Comments on Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing: A Few Thoughts on Grainlines and Pattern ChangesGertiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comBlogger42125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-83697576003356301532012-07-30T20:18:31.273-04:002012-07-30T20:18:31.273-04:00It appears that your pattern has a bust dart (sepa...It appears that your pattern has a bust dart (separate from the waist dart.) It might have two bust darts, one in the shoulder and one in the side. Why not just take in the waist dart the amount you have tilted the CF at the waist. That way, you don't change the grainline, but you still take in the waist to fit your corset. Wouldn't that work?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-29094812047585611532012-07-30T14:06:47.891-04:002012-07-30T14:06:47.891-04:00I liked it alot but two days a week for 7 weeks wa...I liked it alot but two days a week for 7 weeks was very intense! Professor L Pascal is really great, I highly recommend her. I posted a bunch of photos of my muslins on my instagram.Gracehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03037636603903648365noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-46143282103357107652012-07-30T07:42:28.201-04:002012-07-30T07:42:28.201-04:00I've just found your amazing blog and I've...I've just found your amazing blog and I've started reading it from the beginning! I fell in love with the Burda Skirt Pattern 8155 and went to my local fabric shop this morning to buy it. Not only was it in stock, today was also the start of their 45% off discount period for Burda patterns. I think I am meant to make the skirt!<br /><br />I have your book on pre order from Amazon and can't wait to read it.<br /><br />Love from Linda,<br />(currently experiencing Olympic fever in the United Kingdom)CrystalMoonCathttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09903091876032634142noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-13248034302169981072012-07-30T04:07:46.410-04:002012-07-30T04:07:46.410-04:00Hi Gertie, thank you for your brilliant blog. Did ...Hi Gertie, thank you for your brilliant blog. Did you consider adding an extra dart between sideseam and original dart, plus making orginal dart a little wider (1 cm or so) at waist? That would take care of the excess width while maintaining original grainline. The disadvantage is another sewing line on the bodice which you may want to avoid working with lace or for aestethic reasons.../ Carina, SwedenCarinanoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-20335832829960309922012-07-29T10:50:51.367-04:002012-07-29T10:50:51.367-04:00I have always understood that you maintain the gra...I have always understood that you maintain the grain of fabric when altering a pattern and that it is necessary to "true-up" the original grain if your alteration changed any part of it. The lengthwise grain is the strongest and should run perpendicular to the body. However, if you decided to use a striped or plaid fabric in an interesting way, you could cu those pieces on the crosswise or true-bias grains either by using a gridded ruler or by folding the pattern piece in half, so that the grainline arrows are on top of each other, creasing the fold, and the foldline is your new crosswise grain. Using a gridded ruler, you can then draw a 45-degree line through the center and create the true-bias grainline. (I don't know if this is the tip from FIT that you were explaining) The changes you have made to the center front grain shift that entire bodice to a slightly bias grain which will affect the way the bodice drapes and the shaping and easing of the neckline, armscye etc. The shoulder alteration is a separate issue, unrelated to the waistline. My suggestion would be to evenly take-out the excess fabric through the CF darts and the side seams.Ellennoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-41001926967146667482012-07-28T23:21:16.088-04:002012-07-28T23:21:16.088-04:00I am also curious about the bust dart:
Are the bus...I am also curious about the bust dart:<br />Are the bust points now closer together? Did you need to re-align the darts to make them 'on grain' by pivoting them out from the bust point?Jen Ohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12371112170847037417noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-29026594807032802322012-07-28T19:00:46.102-04:002012-07-28T19:00:46.102-04:00Interesting. Maybe your next book will be about li...Interesting. Maybe your next book will be about lingerie. With patterns and discussions on how different foundations affect the garments that go with them. No pressure though, just a suggestion. ;}Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11528205706402836975noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-47445842558900529682012-07-28T17:26:15.747-04:002012-07-28T17:26:15.747-04:00Hi there dearest Gertie,
Phew..............I was ...Hi there dearest Gertie,<br /><br />Phew..............I was not picturing the FIT aside that you wrote.<br /><br />Posted on your FB page, saying I am being silly/thick and then came here.<br /><br />I get it now, so thank you so much for the explanation.I am so relieved and will write this one down. Thank you so much for the great tip.Marysiahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17959080591821794196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-3829319277189661502012-07-28T16:50:19.391-04:002012-07-28T16:50:19.391-04:00Oh absolutely not. I am still learning. :)Oh absolutely not. I am still learning. :)Lisahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00794486660566691716noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-21117263301956084972012-07-28T07:03:25.085-04:002012-07-28T07:03:25.085-04:00Many thanks, indigorchid!Many thanks, indigorchid!Kimsternoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-90589893378475073062012-07-28T06:28:06.637-04:002012-07-28T06:28:06.637-04:00Yes, cutting the piece on fold means that the cut ...Yes, cutting the piece on fold means that the cut edge being center front/center back also represents the grainline. So, your thought process is perfectly correct!indigorchidhttp://www.indigorchid.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-18174744495140576472012-07-28T06:17:06.025-04:002012-07-28T06:17:06.025-04:00"the grain can be anywhere that gives you the..."the grain can be anywhere that gives you the effect you want"<br /><br />Amen! I attended some lectures on the work of Charles James, and learning that he would play around with grain until he got the effect that he wanted was eyeopening and inspiring! <br /><br />Thanks for bringing that up!indigorchidhttp://www.indigorchid.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-6105623555119456782012-07-28T04:31:18.004-04:002012-07-28T04:31:18.004-04:00I was wondering about the darts. In the picture it...I was wondering about the darts. In the picture it looks like they're parallel to the original CF - so should you adjust them too to be parallel to the new CF?Ruthnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-86061475670845804952012-07-28T04:15:25.711-04:002012-07-28T04:15:25.711-04:00Great blog! Do visit my blog if you like :)
follow...Great blog! Do visit my blog if you like :)<br />follow on GFC?Hanz, Fashionista Era Designhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10006159804834320846noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-55966299819748681002012-07-28T00:56:05.391-04:002012-07-28T00:56:05.391-04:00Lisa, that's probably the fault of my writing,...Lisa, that's probably the fault of my writing, not your sewing :)Gertiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-40217105642329580742012-07-28T00:48:02.684-04:002012-07-28T00:48:02.684-04:00I've actually done this exact thing only I do ...I've actually done this exact thing only I do it on the center back piece because I've often had gaping at the back of the neck (good posture? lol) It works great, and I would guess the same would be true for the front :)Symonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17965640501644567685noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-38356502928628243272012-07-27T19:15:36.112-04:002012-07-27T19:15:36.112-04:00I have not much experience in pattern drafting or ...I have not much experience in pattern drafting or fitting patterns, but I wonder if the grainline matters when you cut the pattern piece on the fold? While cutting the pattern piece on the fold it is already on grain, isn't it?Kimsternoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-6943696754838407072012-07-27T19:00:54.897-04:002012-07-27T19:00:54.897-04:00I find that dresses with a lot of princess seams i...I find that dresses with a lot of princess seams in the bodice are easier to fit to your corseted waist shape as you can take a little from each seam without disturbing the grainline and you get a really snug fit. I know that won't help with your dress...just saying!VermillionCorsetryCouturehttp://vermillioncorsetrycouture.blogspot.co.uknoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-71899589273032671032012-07-27T18:37:44.343-04:002012-07-27T18:37:44.343-04:00In my limited pattern making experience I would sa...In my limited pattern making experience I would say what you have done it just fine. Every body is different and adjustments are therefore very individual. I use any pattern alteration book as a guide but in the end the best fit for you can only be made by sewind a toile.<br />And for all those beginners out there don't be scared. It's actually eadier than you think. Make the toile then put it on your body and pin exactly where tbe changes need to be make. After transfering tje changes to you paper pattern if you are still worried do another toile. The best lessons I always learnt about pattern alterations were through trial and error.<br />Thank you again Gertie for sharing your process!Clairenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-70585281976182142592012-07-27T18:16:14.459-04:002012-07-27T18:16:14.459-04:00Reading this caused me to have a, "well, duh!...Reading this caused me to have a, "well, duh!" moment. Of course you would have to move the center front and reestablish the grain line. <br /><br />However, this is also why my garments will always have that "homemade" look to them. I would have nipped in the side seams and then wondered why the center front was still all bunched up, after all, hadn't I fixed the excess material problem?<br /><br />The more I learn, the more I realize all that I don't know but you give me confidence to keep trying! Thanks G!Shannonnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-91869467285575384002012-07-27T17:53:35.768-04:002012-07-27T17:53:35.768-04:00Yes, I agree, and that would be an example of this...Yes, I agree, and that would be an example of this change skewing the pattern too much. At that point, one would need to look into other options, definitely!Gertiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-21871426324376062732012-07-27T17:48:50.898-04:002012-07-27T17:48:50.898-04:00Thank you for your thoughts, Suzy!Thank you for your thoughts, Suzy!Gertiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-49877590922000661852012-07-27T17:46:53.512-04:002012-07-27T17:46:53.512-04:00Hi! Could you explain what you mean? What used to ...Hi! Could you explain what you mean? What used to be referred to as over correction--my method? And what kinds of problems would laces on a corset fix? Sorry if I'm being dense here.Gertiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-77559748528130685972012-07-27T17:44:57.534-04:002012-07-27T17:44:57.534-04:00Sorry that was unclear! Basically you're just ...Sorry that was unclear! Basically you're just folding a piece of paper in half and making a crease on the fold. So fold the bodice piece in half so that the center front and the side seam meet perfectly. Make sure you get a good crease line on the fold. Open the pattern piece back up and use a ruler to draw a line along the crease. That's your grainline.<br /><br />Did that help or did I make it worse? :)Gertiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-46840752095376752882012-07-27T17:41:18.702-04:002012-07-27T17:41:18.702-04:00Thanks for this! How did you like patternmaking II...Thanks for this! How did you like patternmaking II? I took the first one, but haven't gotten around to taking the second!Gertiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.com