tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post4585656884836285362..comments2024-03-14T16:03:32.434-04:00Comments on Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing: Lady Grey: Swayback Adjustments and Making Your Lapels SmallerGertiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-79155141946689183702010-09-24T11:57:05.718-04:002010-09-24T11:57:05.718-04:00Hi Gertie,
Not sure if this is the place to com...Hi Gertie,<br /><br /> Not sure if this is the place to comment on the hair or not. I love your hair in this style. You're pretty and can carry off so many looks! But since you asked I wanted to let you know if you didn't already that there are a couple vintage hairstyle sites I've read . In no particular order http://beautyisathingofthepast.blogspot.com<br />http://bobbypinblog.blogspot.com<br /> Hope you find it interesting.<br />You lucky gal! Tim Gunn he's such a dapper gentleman.<br />Best,<br />EliseAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-75948928106142910092010-09-23T17:48:57.799-04:002010-09-23T17:48:57.799-04:00ejvc has just sent me here to look at the sway bac...ejvc has just sent me here to look at the sway back alteration discussion.<br />There is a thread at pattern review that might also be of interest<br /><br />http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?t=34787<br /><br />I have just tried the Kenneth King method of transferring the dart to the side seam, as described by Marji in the thread, and was very pleased with the result.kbencohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00885068563358776147noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-18933831346108959662010-09-23T14:19:00.034-04:002010-09-23T14:19:00.034-04:00I haven't started yet, but I am not using the ...I haven't started yet, but I am not using the Lady Grey.I would like you to address adding a inside pocket for a cell phone. I have started drafting the size and shape I would like and will incorporate Kenneth Kings instructions in his book "Cool Couture"<br />The reason is safety for both the wearer of the coat and the cell phone itself. I have started incorporating the inside pocket after a near miss while walking near my home. All of my REI coats and jackets have this feature so I want to add this to my coats and jackets I make.<br />AnnetteAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-38294580677208111452010-09-23T09:36:01.171-04:002010-09-23T09:36:01.171-04:00Hi guys! I know fitting issues can be frustrating....Hi guys! I know fitting issues can be frustrating. Hang in there. <br /><br />ejvc, I keep pointing people toward Fit for Real People and the online FBA tutorial taken from that method. If you have an additional list of resources, would you consider putting them together for an op/ed post? I obviously can't address everything on my own, and I love having extra constributors!Gertiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-39978234877366918782010-09-23T08:29:26.173-04:002010-09-23T08:29:26.173-04:00I'm glad it was helpful Debora-Bink! I'm v...I'm glad it was helpful Debora-Bink! I'm very visual as well, and when I started sewing any pictures helped (thank you for explaining horsehair braid Gertie!! Although I still did it wrong!)<br /><br />Good luck![patty the snug bug]https://www.blogger.com/profile/17830791771911214780noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-14376796169057608282010-09-23T08:16:33.039-04:002010-09-23T08:16:33.039-04:00OMG, THANK YOU PATTY!
I'm a visual girl, and ...OMG, THANK YOU PATTY!<br /><br />I'm a visual girl, and with even all the visuals from sewmamasew, I couldn't figure it out 'cause of the inner curve/outer curve of the two front pieces, vs. the two outward curves of "normal" princess seams<br /><br />BUT! now I get it...and so, today will be spent making pattern adjustments, tracing, and sewing my muslin! YAY!!!!<br /><br />which, I'm sure, will cause more trauma and heartache :)<br /><br />Cheers!<br /><br />binky/DeboraBinkydollhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03114235723389534329noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-1547877326694793232010-09-23T08:01:14.607-04:002010-09-23T08:01:14.607-04:00ejvc - I saw your comment in my email and have bee...ejvc - I saw your comment in my email and have been chewing over it while looking at my morning computering (um, blogs...)<br /><br />I think the key is to use the high bust measurement to choose the correct size, then do a full bust adjustment. This certainly adds length to the front pattern pieces (I did a 5" FBA and my front side piece is definitely much longer, and my front piece a bit longer) but none of that length was added to the back pieces at all! I don't know if you could get much more short waisted/full busted than me! (DD, with my visual waist less than a handspan below my bustline!)<br /><br />And you are so <i>on</i> with how people give up on account of fitting issues. Also, fitting is so <i>hard</i>, body image-wise. I don't know ANY of my friends who like how they look in photos. And here we all are, taking pictures at unflattering angles that are intended to show off how badly our clothes are fitting! If only the partial head-on pose would work as well for fitting purposes as it does for taking off 20 pounds![patty the snug bug]https://www.blogger.com/profile/17830791771911214780noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-14779675825565305172010-09-23T05:25:23.125-04:002010-09-23T05:25:23.125-04:00A quick comment: A large bust requires extra leng...A quick comment: A large bust requires extra length in the front. So if you are large-bosomed and short waisted, you'll get puddling at the waist in the back. I am not sure of the procedure for fixing this exactly - I mean, you can do a tuck above the waist and then an FBA, but I wonder if that won't create extra work and there isn't some way to combine them? In any case I think the back view will show a truer picture when it comes to the length of the bodice than the front view. In fact I looked at my muslin pictures again with this in mind - my back length is about 1/2" shorter than "standard" and I normally don't adjust for it because in most patterns it doesn't matter - but here I think that could clear up some of the back wrinkles I have. Gertie, I think it would be useful at this stage to point people to a range of fitting resources. I really think that's something that puts people off sewing - I have seen posts from others who have made a muslin and given up on this pattern; for some it doesn't suit them (lesson learned) but for others I think it was a fitting issue that they simply didn't know how to solve.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-3988557503750964762010-09-22T23:08:38.682-04:002010-09-22T23:08:38.682-04:00Binky - I also put pictures up of my FBA on the La...Binky - I also put pictures up of my FBA on the Lady Grey - you can see it here (although, I probably mixed up my left and my right a few times! :-)) <br /><br />http://thesnugbug.blogspot.com/2010/09/lady-grey-muslin-2-full-bust-adjustment.html[patty the snug bug]https://www.blogger.com/profile/17830791771911214780noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-17145582418332350352010-09-22T21:54:27.697-04:002010-09-22T21:54:27.697-04:00Blinky, for a Full Bust Adjustment on a princess s...Blinky, for a Full Bust Adjustment on a princess seam follow this link http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=486 Hope it helps.Aliciahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06291040487504946628noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-73649103309147654662010-09-22T18:40:40.950-04:002010-09-22T18:40:40.950-04:00OK, me again... Binky: I recall seeing lots of inf...OK, me again... Binky: I recall seeing lots of info about FBAs and princess seams in Fit for Real People. Seriously, if you don't have the book, I'd go and get it just to assist you with this project. I've never done an FBA for princess seams so I can't really explain it to you. In reading, it seems complex (I learn by doing so the reading is a very preliminary step for me) but I bet it would fix your problem.K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-70485071190558544492010-09-22T18:17:49.352-04:002010-09-22T18:17:49.352-04:00OK, one other thing: I will post a new photo of th...OK, one other thing: I will post a new photo of the shortened waist version of my muslin. It worked WONDERS. I thought that what I was doing was a swayback adjustment. Of course, now that I've read this I realize I shortened the bodice instead. <br /><br />Note that when I shortened it I took an inch out all around: half an inch was from above the waistline and half an inch was from below. I do have a short waist. I've noted it in my sewing and with purchased clothing. I'm just amazed that the pooling went away completely with that simple adjustment.K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-41033038734878114902010-09-22T18:08:09.647-04:002010-09-22T18:08:09.647-04:00I haven't even read this yet Gertie. I posted ...I haven't even read this yet Gertie. I posted my discussion topic on Flickr having not got to the blogs - I'm a bit out of sorts today having gone through a migraine. My discussion question is probably answered by this post (in which case I'll remove it). Now onto the reading...K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-82551222944396467302010-09-22T18:03:11.992-04:002010-09-22T18:03:11.992-04:00i'm also super super late on making my muslin....i'm also super super late on making my muslin. glad i'm not the only one. my glee premiere party and getting a last minute acceptance to an awesome craft fair have me behind, but i'm sure i'll catch up eventually!Diana Bhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02363134121541245026noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-35260886878107088002010-09-22T16:53:38.549-04:002010-09-22T16:53:38.549-04:00Wah!! I love the buttons and immediately went to ...Wah!! I love the buttons and immediately went to the mjtrim.com website. Unfortunately, I did not see them available to us outlanders. Believe me, it is a button wasteland where I live. I was in Munich recently, and had a chance to visit the famous department store Karlstadt (formerly "Hertie"). While they offer a very high-end selection of buttons, I did not see anything offered like your coat buttons. <br /><br />I think your coat will be fantastic in the fabric,lining and buttons. Perhaps I will join in a future sew along. To all current participants, please know many of us out here are excited to see your completed coats!!PamelaHnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-54565223546219546572010-09-22T16:32:43.128-04:002010-09-22T16:32:43.128-04:00I'm so behind on my muslin! I can't for t...I'm so behind on my muslin! I can't for the life of me figure out how/where to add the excess for an FBA, since the princess seam curves off into the armpit.<br /><br />I've gone through four sets of traced patterns, a lot of yelling and a lot of tears and I still can't figure it out... :(<br /><br />I'm about ready to add this project to the other four in the back of my sewing locker....Binkydollhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03114235723389534329noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-91271141780053835782010-09-22T14:28:29.200-04:002010-09-22T14:28:29.200-04:00Having thought about this a little more, I reckon ...Having thought about this a little more, I reckon the reason I got the wrinkles in my lower back isn't entirely to do with the width of my arse, it's also because I'm short waisted but have reasonably large bosoms. The extra length in the front was filled out by the girls and therefore wasn't really extra, so I just had to tuck out the excess in the back. The hem was level even with the wrinkles, so it wasn't so much the bottom half of the coat being pulled by my bum as the upper portion not being supported by the lowness of my shoulders. Does that make sense?Emmy Joneshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14665241940139066897noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-43522389513488114392010-09-22T14:07:42.706-04:002010-09-22T14:07:42.706-04:00Thanks for the tips! I started sewing my muslin, b...Thanks for the tips! I started sewing my muslin, but have yet to finish it and try it on. Hopefully tonight. I hope your picks for your version!Angelahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11669454301859970896noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-86727277545685622992010-09-22T13:52:38.101-04:002010-09-22T13:52:38.101-04:00Oh! I can't wait to make my very own coat! I&#...Oh! I can't wait to make my very own coat! I'm not ready for it yet, but maybe next year! I'm excited to see what everyone creates!!Jennahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01853924203149917457noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-12883947550561975192010-09-22T13:14:03.607-04:002010-09-22T13:14:03.607-04:00I love your buttons! They are gorgeous.I love your buttons! They are gorgeous.Affi'eniahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15250993277535319499noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-63372381034003993882010-09-22T12:50:15.743-04:002010-09-22T12:50:15.743-04:00Hmm, I went back and read the fitting comments mor...Hmm, I went back and read the fitting comments more carefully. I think this confirms that I will draw a horizontal balance line on my muslin; somewhere near the waist.<br />I know I'll need something along these lines, too, but how will I know whether to make a swayback adjustment or add more ease? Well, it depends on which method keeps my grainline plumb and my horizontal balance line level.a little sewinghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18086285440873869055noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-36837005095889438472010-09-22T12:42:47.467-04:002010-09-22T12:42:47.467-04:00I LOVE your fabric, lining and buttons!
I am behin...I LOVE your fabric, lining and buttons!<br />I am behind, too. I really want to make this coat but I am still finishing my Butterick coat.a little sewinghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18086285440873869055noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-21450308382453860402010-09-22T12:34:17.160-04:002010-09-22T12:34:17.160-04:00I've used the method Brocadegoddess mentions a...I've used the method Brocadegoddess mentions and can attest that it works. You'll want to distribute the ease you're adding below the waist among all the back seams, not just the CB. (In fact, I described this method on someone's flickr photo of this problem and was unsure, but now I'm glad to be validated!)<br /><br />On another note, I'm so happy to be doing the sewalong! Before my daughter was born I used to do at least one complicated/advanced project a year, but I've slipped back into just making the same basics and not trying anything new.<br />It's good to get out of my comfort zone. OTOH, yikes, is tracing seamlines tedious or what? I cheated a bit and didn't draw in the new cutting line (with 1" seam allowance), but just measured and cut as I went.Suemarie33noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-37392788364724260322010-09-22T12:28:37.797-04:002010-09-22T12:28:37.797-04:00Hi Gertie, thanks for the tutorials on making lape...Hi Gertie, thanks for the tutorials on making lapels and collar smaller, I will give it a shot. My other issue (since I am only 5" tall) is that the coat is too long for me. I posted on flikr (I am hokidoki on flikr) how my muslin look with the original length and shorter hem (I pinned the hem). Is it as simple as chop the hem off a few inches? I also feel that the peplum might be overwhelming, how to adjust that? Lastly, I also notice that some fellow sewalongers including myself have issue with the wide sleeves. How to adjust that? my apology to bombard you with so many questions....thanksAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-85920551959352362782010-09-22T11:58:12.211-04:002010-09-22T11:58:12.211-04:00Gertie, your fabric looks nearly identical to mine...Gertie, your fabric looks nearly identical to mine, although mine is grey and white! Is yours a weave? <br />Also did you do the drier method to preshrink yours or did you take it to the cleaners? I nervous to do either since I don't want to shrink it too much.<br />Thanks for the helpful post, as always. :)zilredlohhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10626730299584724606noreply@blogger.com