Comments on Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing: Chiffon or Tweed?

I am definitely a flou. I love floaty fluffy fabri...

2009-11-15T22:14:39.753-05:00

I am definitely a flou. I love floaty fluffy fabrics!

I think Carlotta's on to something, that there...

2009-10-11T18:15:04.713-04:00

I think Carlotta's on to something, that there's a difference between working for the high fashion industrie and sewing for one's own use (no matter the skill level). Tweed is obviousley more practical, both in handling and in wearing, so of course I, as most of the women here who've commented, prefer tweed (or wool) to chiffon. I'm humble eunough to say that might very well be why I sew for myself and my friends - my creations are for use, they're not a work of art. No matter the material or the outcome of the garment.

Tailleur, I love working with structure, woolens i...

2009-10-11T11:41:42.398-04:00

Tailleur, I love working with structure, woolens in particular, because it fits my body type and life style better. I have worked with chiffon and it is a pitta to say the least.

Tweed! But in fact, the material I most love to ...

2009-10-11T10:29:25.766-04:00

Tweed!

But in fact, the material I most love to sew with is wool. Especially wool coatings. Cutting it is a breeze, though it may shed a bit. The weight and hand means there is no shifting when pinning or sewing seams, no puckering of seams either. I also love that a very simple pencil skirt can look so luxe when you add some basic lines of topstitching. I used to sew with it a lot in high school and college.

Tailleur without a doubt. I work with chiffon fre...

2009-10-11T10:27:56.459-04:00

Tailleur without a doubt. I work with chiffon frequently in alterations, and while they always turn out nicely, I'd usually prefer to chuck them across the room instead of work with them

Hi Gertie, just stumbled upon your blog and I love...

2009-10-11T05:38:23.105-04:00

Hi Gertie, just stumbled upon your blog and I love what you're doing! Can't wait to see the whole line-up of Vogue clothes :) As for the record, I guess I would be a tailleur... I always thought that if I had more men in my life to sew for, I would love to learn tailoring for menswear. All that wool, tweed, steaming, pressing... sewing porn!

Hello Gertie, that's interesting, because I re...

2009-10-11T05:09:59.956-04:00

Hello Gertie,
that's interesting, because I remember having seen a documentary from Loïc Prigent where Lagerfeld explained that the Chanel Haute Couture Première was very precious, because she knew both about tailleur and flou, which is extremely rare (althought I think you specialize in the two categories at your last year only).

But I'm not sure that's a chiffon/tweed thing. Last spring I've been lucky enough to sew 1900 dresses with Juliette, who is now retired but used to work in workshops such as Lanvin, Dior or Schiapparelli, and made costumes for the Moulin Rouge. Juliette is specialised in flou, but the garments she makes for herself are often structured and always fitted: crazy dresses, siren skirts, but also complicated coats. I'd say she prefers to work with brocade than with chiffon.

But I can remember her telling me with the deepest admiration of Madame Grès's delicate pleats. I think her love for flou comes from the fact the garment changes a lot when you wear it: a metamorphosis by the movement. Her husband is a painter working on the moving body, so it's quite a perpetual concern for them, this point must be deeply rooted in her mind. Therefore, the choice of the flou, I'd say.

That's an interesting point, thanks for reminding it, because I had almost forgotten about that. Now I wonder which type I would be. But, as said before, I don't think it's that determining: remember the première who talks like this lives in a very precise type of sewing and techniques for decades: she knows very individually her petites mains and their way of sewing, no wonder she's so acute: this type of distinction structures her world.

I think that I would be both as I love the feel an...

2009-10-11T01:16:15.318-04:00

I think that I would be both as I love the feel and to work with both fabrics.

I am tailleur. Not because I'm afraid of chif...

2009-10-10T15:45:28.431-04:00

I am tailleur. Not because I'm afraid of chiffon and its difficult behavior, but because chiffon does not suit my lifestyle. Some people can sew with sheer fabrics really well. It would be major for me.

Well, I haven't tried chiffon yet. I guess th...

2009-10-10T15:42:36.145-04:00

Well, I haven't tried chiffon yet. I guess that makes me a tailleur.
I would sure hate to work in a lab coat without my clutter and distractions!! I can't imagine working in pristine conditions! I work in the family room while my kids or husband watch tv, often cut out my items on the floor, etc. The boys are cute because they are around as I sew and will recognize my new items. They are always proud to tell people that Mommy made whatever!!

I'm most definitely tailleur! I'm terrifi...

2009-10-10T15:38:37.829-04:00

I'm most definitely tailleur! I'm terrified of working with chiffon!

There's a funny typo in your post, here: "...

2009-10-10T15:05:22.942-04:00

There's a funny typo in your post, here:
" are responsible for a singe workroom"

Singe means monkey in french.

Tailleur, possible because I don't have a flou lifestyle.

Tailleur! but oh how I dream of being a Flou!

2009-10-10T13:11:06.476-04:00

Tailleur!

but oh how I dream of being a Flou!

Definitely prefer tailleur. Although I love a chal...

2009-10-10T12:30:31.362-04:00

Definitely prefer tailleur. Although I love a challenge and I love chiffon and the drape of a soft silk. Recently I made a silk chiffon maternity blouse for a friend. There are definite steps to help with the fabric which eases the pain. If there is a will, there is a way!

Most definitely tailleur. I recently made a chiff...

2009-10-10T11:27:27.144-04:00

Most definitely tailleur. I recently made a chiffon shirt and it was an unmitigated disaster. It is now covered in tear stains. It's not pretty.

I completely agree with Knitosaurus. While draping...

2009-10-10T10:41:08.780-04:00

I completely agree with Knitosaurus. While draping construction is incredible, I'd have no idea how to actually do it

Don't must of us learn to sew through tailoring methods? Darted skirts, princess seams...

Now I'm in the mood for tweed.

I don't have much experience working with eith...

2009-10-10T10:06:48.701-04:00

I don't have much experience working with either at this point, so I will imagine my response. In a perfect world, I would live at the Metropolitan Opera and be in love with chiffon, but since it is not a perfect world, I think I'm more a tailleur.

Check out Valentino: The Last Emporer if you haven't seen it yet. You get a good idea of what it is to work in a couture house...pretty.darn.stressful. But the dresses are exquisite.

Is there a word for someone with both sensibilitie...

2009-10-10T09:24:39.375-04:00

Is there a word for someone with both sensibilities. Today I will be tailleur. Next week I will be flou.

Tailleur all the way. Nothing excites me more tha...

2009-10-10T09:02:58.437-04:00

Tailleur all the way. Nothing excites me more than a nicely tailored piece that really shows the nice construction details.

I would probably compare "flou" with draping and that type of construction. I wouldn't begin to know how to drape a dress form and turn it into a wearable garment.