tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post3432671742235614330..comments2024-03-14T16:03:32.434-04:00Comments on Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing: Should Pattern Companies Update Their Sizing?Gertiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comBlogger96125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-66214664067156849992013-07-01T18:45:29.287-04:002013-07-01T18:45:29.287-04:00I think you made her point. Sizing isn't accur...I think you made her point. Sizing isn't accurate and the mix of sizes available is insufficient. <br /><br />All sizes should have the adjustment lines for petite and tall figures. <br /><br />Using bust measurement as the first criteria for size is ridiculous. <br /><br />Women with a 36" bust would all choose the same size. A woman who is a 36A is completely different than a woman who is a 32 C but they could have the same bust measurement of 36". The high bust measurement isn't good enough. <br /><br />I don't think Gertie is talking about expanding sizes. The whole system needs to be changed. We don't need Petite, Womens, Half-sizes. Plus sizes and Misses. They don't make any patterns in most of those categories so just drop them. Put height adjustments for tall and petite in every pattern. It's the easier alteration. <br /><br />Almost everyone seems to be a larger size on the bottom. It should be the opposite. It's not that almost everyone is shaped wrong. it's the sizing that is wrong. <br /><br />We need a new system designed from scratch that has nothing at all to do with the old system. <br /><br />GiseleAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-3998171999722089632013-06-26T07:05:59.526-04:002013-06-26T07:05:59.526-04:00That last comment is just rude & stupid. Yes, ...That last comment is just rude & stupid. Yes, I am obese for all sorts of reasons that I am fully aware of. It doesn't take a too smal pair of jeans to remind me that I am obese. And finding patterns in my size would not lead me to wolf down fries & burgers!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-85368039043594986032013-03-23T12:16:45.597-04:002013-03-23T12:16:45.597-04:00I hope the pattern companies DO NOT go to vanity s...I hope the pattern companies DO NOT go to vanity sizing in sewing patterns. Sewing patterns provide the only true reality check for the obese. I have a size 12 jeans that I purchased in the early 90's. I use this pair as my fat gauge. Unfortunately they don't fit right now, but as the sizes adjust upward in RTW, people living off of burgers and fries continue to believe they are not obese since their jeans fit. If you are sewing a top, buy the pattern according to the largest bust size that fits your measurements according to the envelope and then learn how to adjust to fit. If your favorite pattern can only be found in a size 16, then learn to pattern grade. Scholar-Gypsyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04253069339448924517noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-32030573871444985772013-02-20T18:55:05.109-05:002013-02-20T18:55:05.109-05:00Just read this post but I would like more info reg...Just read this post but I would like more info regarding measurements. For example why are there so few garment measurements on a pattern envelope? I just started my first store bought pattern- a Simplicity dress 6123 (I always copied existing clothes I liked to learn how to sew) and it only has the bust and hip finished garment measurement, this is a dress with a fitted waistline so wouldn't the waist be a very important finished measurement?! I have resorted to measuring the waist on the pattern piece which is challenging as it curves. It is also not mentioned whether this finished garment measurement has the seam allowance already removed, I can only assume it does as a garment has seams when finished....Layer, Stitch, Repeat.https://www.blogger.com/profile/04639906543405642625noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-54828519387408677542012-06-18T18:19:37.552-04:002012-06-18T18:19:37.552-04:00according to the above chart, there's a size 0...according to the above chart, there's a size 0. huh?<br />nothing is size 0. if it has numbers, it's not zero. what's that all about? being skinny isn't skinny enough?<br /><br />and really, now. heavy women do not end at size 18. walk into any good plus-size store. or any bad one, for that matter. sizes go alllll the way up there. why shouldn't fitted patterns go all the way up also. and i don't mean those drapey things that have obviously been drafted up from 'size 0'. you could get three necks through one neckline in one of those patterns. i'm fortunate enough to be able to draft my own patterns, but i don't always want to and why should i have to? my $18 for tissue paper is as good as someone else's $18 for tissue paper.<br /><br />i keep hearing that more and more of the population is now 'overweight' by someone's definition. why aren't patterns companies rolling with it? this is not news, people. this is old. instead of continuing to raise prices for patterns, perhaps the big 4 should be revamping to better suit the needs of the big woman. by selling more patterns they might be able to keep their prices stable.<br /><br />that's my story and i'm stickin' to it!barbarahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04781816935962671772noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-44456241930663213912011-06-24T10:45:59.329-04:002011-06-24T10:45:59.329-04:00this is why I always make a muslin. it's alot ...this is why I always make a muslin. it's alot of trouble. but when I'm done. I have my own sized pattern. And I'm with all the people here. they just need to be accurate. but playing with vintage patterns means you don't know if the fit is going to be different so making a muslin is the best answer that I've come up with. And learning how to grad patterns has been really helpful.Diniehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05639124231054802442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-22670006678457066722010-06-10T09:36:50.739-04:002010-06-10T09:36:50.739-04:00I think size numbers just ought to be chucked, per...I think size numbers just ought to be chucked, period. They're far too arbitrary. Do it by bust/waist/hip measurements like men's RTW often does.<br /><br />Like many other commenters, I'm much more bothered by limited size ranges, poor styles in the upper size ranges, and inaccurate sizing, than I am by some dumb number. I'm a 12 in RTW (I think), a 16 in "middle-aged" patterns, and an 18-20 in truly vintage patterns. WTF? It makes way more sense just to say I'm a Bust 40/High Bust 38 and Hip 44.Little Black Carhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14313164876855565140noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-73234703894480441732010-06-03T02:51:50.432-04:002010-06-03T02:51:50.432-04:00I haven't read all the comments (there are 89 ...I haven't read all the comments (there are 89 not including mine!) but I read some of them and as a petite lady, I'd like to contribute. I am fine with the way the Big 4 patterns are because they at least have my bust size (32, I'm a puny A, borderline AA cup without a bra) and I just need to make an adjustment for the waist (although I should really lose a few pounds and get back to a cardio routine). There ARE women out there where the measurements work, I'm an 8/10 on patterns and size 0 - 4 in clothing from stores. <br /><br />I have not tried a Collete pattern but I didn't realize they only go down to 33" bust! That is ridiculous! There are tons of flatter chested girls out there (I'm Chinese and we tend to run on the smaller size, men and women's fashions alike). Petite people need some representing too....I'm 5 feet tall with a 32" bust. <br /><br />I'm all for expanded sizing for on the other end of the spectrum just so much as the petite end is not compromised!Caronoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-11871803717948516022010-05-11T20:08:06.867-04:002010-05-11T20:08:06.867-04:00I agree with those above that think they should sw...I agree with those above that think they should switch to a different labeling system (give each size a letter or, hell, a symbol) but patterns need to stick to the actual measurements - chest, hip, bust, waist whatever - that they say they will.<br /><br />I, too, steer clear of the "today's fit" type patterns. I don't want something that's loose and flowing around my waist. I would like to see more pattern companies include bodice variation for B cups (standard I assume) and then one for D-E cups. And not just on patterns that don't NEED it (I say a multi-cup size pattern for a loose stretch top the other day - why bother?)<br /><br />I'm not a brand new sewer, but I'm certainly no expert. What confuses me the most at the moment in distinguishing what size to cut when they only list Bust on their size charts and not Chest or Upper Bust sizes to compare those to.<br /><br />At the end of the day, we know our actual measurements. Disclose those in full, stick to them, and we won't care what label you put on it.Cassnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-3613410631195854562010-03-30T07:57:41.810-04:002010-03-30T07:57:41.810-04:00I really don't understand the sizes on pattern...I really don't understand the sizes on patterns. I'm still fairly new to dress making and have been building up my skills making crafty things instead. I find it very hard to see which size I am. In a shop I am Size 6/8 (UK size) and on the dresses I am size 10, but I can still get into junior patterns too. I'm sure I will understand it one day how it works.Abihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02948584047289493679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-7449385740336396302010-03-24T08:33:10.525-04:002010-03-24T08:33:10.525-04:00No, because I already have a hard enough time dete...No, because I already have a hard enough time determining what size I am in RTW. My body size has been constant for a loooong time, but the size that I wear has gone all over the place.<br /><br />I just want the patterns to match the measurements they're supposed to match. If I make a pencil skirt for a 30 inch waist, the finished skirt should be 30 inches, plus a REASONABLE amount of ease. It shouldn't fall down on its own!!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-83315280225210455122010-03-21T20:44:29.245-04:002010-03-21T20:44:29.245-04:00hmmm, i don't really care if they change the n...hmmm, i don't really care if they change the numbers or not. i'm a dressmaker's size 14 (how my gramma referred to sewing sizes once they started to differ from store bought sizes).<br />but, with so many people taking larger sizes now i think they should make those available. <br /><br />i love sewing bc you can customize everything. as lomg as pattern companies create a base for people to work with it's up to them to make it fit :DElizabeth Jhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00928033549597177234noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-91446981796692555642010-03-19T18:47:51.553-04:002010-03-19T18:47:51.553-04:00It doesn't bother me that my real world size i...It doesn't bother me that my real world size is a 4/6 and my sewing size is a 12/14, as long as I am able to quickly find what I need. (which I can do because patterns have a sizing chart on the back). <br /><br />I DO wish that pattern companies would do a better job posting measurements including ease. Most companies only say bust measurements with ease on the package, which always leaves me guessing what size I really need until I open up the pattern and find where it is printed on the pieces. What this means for me is that I often buy material for my "measurement" size, and then end up making a much smaller size to do away with the extra ease, thus having typically at least 1 extra yard of material left. It's such a waste! Also, at times I'm not sure which size pattern to buy, as 12/14 is often the split point between the smaller-range and the larger-range of sizes.Beckyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04679687508093366057noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-40556172220327396562010-03-18T14:49:45.652-04:002010-03-18T14:49:45.652-04:00+1 for more options for adjusting patterns. There ...+1 for more options for adjusting patterns. There is no reason for pattern companies to change their sizing charts, which are roughly based on an average measurement for that size. And ANY "average" will not fit everyone perfectly because an average is based on a range of measurements. And when you're grouping measurements together to divide into individual sizes, there's both statistical analysis and some arbitrary line drawing. It's not all-inclusive, it's an average or median. Almost EVERYONE will need to make some adjustment to every pattern to fit. <br /><br />The best solution would be to include more options, markings, measurements, instructions, for making necessary adjustments to patterns. Not just "lengthen/shorten here" lines but bust cup, hip curve, anything. Obviously this would still leave some people out of the size range but it will make individual sizes more inclusive. And if highly adjustable patterns become the standard, the sizing standards would have to change. Sizes should then be based on the most difficult measurements to adjust--like shoulders, over bust. Start with that and use the adjustments to make it fit the more easily altered parts.Kristenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14323144587662486207noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-67444087876370024372010-03-17T21:17:06.519-04:002010-03-17T21:17:06.519-04:00I would never want patterns to change to RTW sizin...I would never want patterns to change to RTW sizing because the sizing of women's RTW clothes is not at all consistent. I hate shopping for RTW clothes because I never know what sizes to try on. It varies from brand to brand. I don't have time for that.<br /><br />BTW, I really wanted to make that cute Colette blouse you made, but my bust is smaller than their size 0! Oh, well.Catholic Bibliophagisthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10697706672495544901noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-85682011948928735232010-03-17T20:46:08.156-04:002010-03-17T20:46:08.156-04:00The old sizes are the standard measurements set do...The old sizes are the standard measurements set down by the Standards department, and they set sizes for everything. I get really annoyed because some designers lower their sizes as a marketing tool, when the number on the tag has NOTHING to do with the measurements of the garment or the body in it. As somebody who fits an old-size 16 (Marilyn Munroe was a 16, thankyou), most RTW is sized as 10 (Australian sizes), but when I can fit into something tagged 8 or 6, I dont feel super-skinny, I feel annoyed at the idiots wasting my time by printing the wrong numbers! And as many people have already stated, as sewers we already know our measurements, these seemingly random size numbers are frustrating, confusing and useless!<br />-missalexAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-42175467989697927732010-03-17T20:19:37.611-04:002010-03-17T20:19:37.611-04:00I knew this post would get some really interesting...I knew this post would get some really interesting comments! Haven't read them all yet, but I am in agreement with those who think we should skip sizes, and just go with body measurements and/or finished garment measurements. I find it immensely helpful when the finished bust/waist/hip is printed on the pattern as well! <br />I'm an average size though bordering on petite, so I can find a way to work with most patterns - and I'm pretty used to making anywhere from a 6 to a 16 depending on the style, pattern brand, and desired fit of the finished garment. If the sizing model was to be revised, I can't imagine how it would be designed to please (and fit) everyone.Tasiahttp://sewaholic.netnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-89706670052916522982010-03-17T18:50:29.014-04:002010-03-17T18:50:29.014-04:00What an interesting question. I haven't gotte...What an interesting question. I haven't gotten to read all the responses, but I have a few thoughts that might be repeats. I agree that a greater range would be good - I'm a Burda 38, so I find patterns easily, but I think everyone should be able to find patterns as easily as me. I'm still a beginner, though, and I'd frequently like a better fit than I get. It would be helpful if more patterns included guides for flat measurements. If I knew where to check what the finished waist/bust measurements would be, I could adjust those better before even cutting a muslin. That being said, I tissue fit my most recent attempt and still have strange fit things going on in spots that I thought were working, so maybe I'm experiencing user error. Still, I think understanding where the bustline or waist is intended to be would help me - I'm not sure that I've ever really understood those things that well since I'm shorter than my RTW size is designed for. Thanks for the question - it's got me thinking about just how to get my clothes to fit better, as well as how the system might be improved!Rachelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08282918406712219229noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-20188405889793413912010-03-17T16:05:21.631-04:002010-03-17T16:05:21.631-04:00The pattern companies seem to be missing a trick t...The pattern companies seem to be missing a trick to me. If they did more larger sizes they might sell a lot more patterns. But the truth is that once you are not just a plus size (ie larger but still in proportion) but actually overweight (by BMI etc), your body shape becomes less regular and any pattern you buy will have to be adapted in some way to fit you. <br />Vicki mentioned Vogue's Sandra Betzina patterns. Ironically they are completely out of proportion for me. I avoid them like the plague. Vogue's standard sloper, however, fits me perfectly on shoulder slope, hip curve, you name it. Twenty-five years ago I was a Vogue size 10. Now I am a Vogue size 14. That seems about right to me. I only need to make a swayback adjustment and it's fine. Burda is also pretty good for me (largely because tracing makes things very easy to alter), but Simplicity - I look like I'm wearing a trash bag! So what's the point in them changing? Somebody's sloper will come close to you and you have to work from that. <br /><br />More sizes, though? I think (and hope) we'll be seeing that soon, especially if we can all be persuaded into downloading and printing out patterns and so cutting the companies' overheads.<br /><br />HattyAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-5787520072952971232010-03-17T12:27:08.053-04:002010-03-17T12:27:08.053-04:00I think there can't be a lot of benefit for us...I think there can't be a lot of benefit for us in adjusting sizes in sewing patterns. We are all altering them to fit our own unique bodys anyway. What I wish for is more information on the pattern itself where to alter what! I use burda and ottobe and there are no suggestions. Especially if you are varying in height!<br /><br />In sizing itself, I think there are designs that just don't flatter every size and that this should be the only criteria for the sizes in which the pattern is available.christinahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18084668122322535968noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-33518614824302627362010-03-17T06:03:53.052-04:002010-03-17T06:03:53.052-04:00I think the biggest problem is the use of ease and...I think the biggest problem is the use of ease and not printing the finished measurements on the envelope (as opposed to on the tissue as is currently done). <br /><br />Here in Australia I'm a 10-12 RTW (6-8 US?); according to the measurements on the envelope I'm a 16-18... but I make up a 10-12 and it usually fits me pretty well with minor alterations. I have no problem following the measurements on the back, but because of all the ease added these measurements are made useless! If they printed the finished measurements, it would make it much easier!Abi C.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18182055345544898034noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-68036456907870048542010-03-17T03:52:49.104-04:002010-03-17T03:52:49.104-04:00I definitely think it is time for some updating. T...I definitely think it is time for some updating. They need to be accurate and not quite so much ease.Trudyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11649677045881448393noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-828040869330162662010-03-17T02:09:43.990-04:002010-03-17T02:09:43.990-04:00Everyone has already said that we need a larger ra...Everyone has already said that we need a larger range of sizes no matter what you call them and I agree! Jalie patterns already do call their sizes by letters rather than sizes, which is nice. <br /><br />I'd add that it's important that they have a larger range of sizes ALL TOGETHER IN ONE ENVELOPE. Even though I'm a "normal" size in all dimensions, I often need to grade between at least 3 sizes if I'm making a dress since I have a 36 inch bust, a 27 inch waist and 34 inch hips. This has me moving from a mid-size to a really small one and they are NEVER in the same envelope in the big 4. I'm not really sure why not either as many (most?) women are different sizes on the top and bottom. It's frustrating and has really turned me off using their patterns.Sarahhttp://mspiggie.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-45596041403399242412010-03-17T00:21:20.512-04:002010-03-17T00:21:20.512-04:00Absolutely they should update their sizing methods...Absolutely they should update their sizing methods.Juliahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10097054119585201394noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-24547143249997846792010-03-16T22:17:00.703-04:002010-03-16T22:17:00.703-04:00I'm gonna agree with everyone who called for I...I'm gonna agree with everyone who called for INFORMATION from the pattern makers. It drives me insane when the finished measurements are not marked anywhere, and in fact I'd like more of them. Lengthwise measurements sure would come in handy before the muslin stage. Think of the time I'd save if I knew I had to lower the bust point by x and shorten the waist by x. Yes I can measure these on the pattern, but to me it points to a certain lack of confidence in home sewers to know what to do with that info. I mean, they have to know that everyone is altering their patterns, it would be nice if they helped us out with a little data. <br /><br />I haven't tried the Palmer/Pletch patterns, but I'm very curious to give them a whirl.Mz. Whitneyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16795252523182627852noreply@blogger.com