tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post3086942833179006476..comments2024-03-14T16:03:32.434-04:00Comments on Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing: Vintage Pattern SizingGertiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comBlogger50125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-64707130264319939882013-10-23T04:16:18.086-04:002013-10-23T04:16:18.086-04:00hi you all must remember that the patterns were ba...hi you all must remember that the patterns were based on a style /silhouette not on real people my mother says that women squeezed into shapers or padded the areas that lacked. That was what the sixty's and seventy's were about comfortable clothing that fitted you (because it was a knit or big flowing maxi/prairie dress) gracehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17212473218692074892noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-70237888740499543402013-06-20T13:13:46.550-04:002013-06-20T13:13:46.550-04:00Great fitting advice.
When I was younger and work...Great fitting advice.<br /><br />When I was younger and working in Manhattan, I bought a suit at Wallach's (yes, they sell women's clothing, too). I chose my standard off the rack size of 6. Wallach's provides free alterations and the tailor gave me advice that I have never forgotten and quite similar to yours. You must, must, must choose the size that fits your shoulders. That is prime because it is almost impossible to alter through the shoulders and in a suit the fit of the shoulders is key. He immediately took my matched size 6 jacket and skirt back and came back with the same suit with a size 4 jacket and size 8 skirt, lol. He had to alter the sides of the 4 jacket a little for ease at the hips and take in the skirt at the waist quite a bit (I had a very small waist but curvy hips at the time). I could not believe how wonderfully the suit fit when he was done. I think I had been unconsciously trying to accomodate my hips although going to large in the shoulders, by choosing size 6 all those years when I really wasn't a true 6 anywhere. Lesson learned. Also, being very long waisted (18.25"), fit in ready made dresses with a fitted waist has always been a nightmare. Ah, what it must be like to be blessed with a perfect size.<br /><br />I realize this is a very old post but perhaps my story will help someone, somewhere, sometime.50sGalnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-69663616555224513342013-06-09T13:08:40.679-04:002013-06-09T13:08:40.679-04:00mirc indir mevlana sözleri kapak sözler abiye mode...<a href="http://www.mirc-indir.net" title="mirc indir" rel="nofollow">mirc indir</a> <a href="http://www.mevlanasozleri.org" title="mevlana sözleri" rel="nofollow">mevlana sözleri</a> <a href="http://www.kapaksozler.net" title="kapak sözler" rel="nofollow">kapak sözler</a> <a href="http://www.abiyemodeli.net" title="abiye modelleri, elbise modelleri" rel="nofollow">abiye modelleri</a> <a href="http://www.canlikadin.com" title="moda sitesi" rel="nofollow">moda sitesi</a><br />Siberbackhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07964696345098510838noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-4996900200690092272011-09-14T02:20:17.851-04:002011-09-14T02:20:17.851-04:00Interesting post regards sizing the materials and ...Interesting post regards sizing the materials and preparing the cloth to ready to stitching to make a suit for <a href="http://www.alterationsboutique.co.uk/" rel="nofollow">tailoring</a> profession beginners thanks for sharing.srioptimhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14779662867733111707noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-88838198651564898452010-09-07T18:17:41.342-04:002010-09-07T18:17:41.342-04:00Thanks for the great blog site! I'm new to se...Thanks for the great blog site! I'm new to sewing, and was trying to be very thorough and read all my instructions and match my measurements to the sizing chart on the pattern instructions, but when I went to lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric, the pattern pieces themselves, the BACK and FRONT, had Bust and Waist measurements next to sizes (this is a multi-sized pattern) for cutting lines and these did not match the size/measurement listings on the chart. The pattern piece said the Waist measurement for a size 8 was 31.75 and the pattern instruction chart said the Waist for a size 8 was 24 inches. What gives? I know I must be missing something but cannot figure it out. My pattern is not vintage, but I'm hoping someone can help me:(<br />KimAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-38203703043768795102010-08-16T19:23:48.375-04:002010-08-16T19:23:48.375-04:00Wow, what wonderful post with such great info! I&#...Wow, what wonderful post with such great info! I'm a total baby at sewing, but your tips here as well as the comments are like putting a floodlight onto things. Thank you!Jenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15233479262926672923noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-35759518143228372292010-08-13T17:02:49.552-04:002010-08-13T17:02:49.552-04:00Thanks so much for the tip on the book Gertie - I&...Thanks so much for the tip on the book Gertie - I'm now halfway through my own FBA! You can see the progress on my fledgling (joint!) blog here:<br />http://cashmerette.blogspot.com/<br /><br />You're an inspiration!<br />JennyJennyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00785777030789892475noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-43034120487402440162010-07-04T13:51:57.405-04:002010-07-04T13:51:57.405-04:00Miriam, thank you for the shout out about my vinta...Miriam, thank you for the shout out about my vintage patterns. I discovered this blog because of your post and it is a lot of fun to read and I may just be holding back some of the patterns I would have listed on Etsy. So for now, til I build my confidence, shop away. <br /><br />And after going through all the patterns that I have gone through. The measurements do amaze me and I am in awe of the vintage sewers who had to make the adjustments they must have had to make to get a good fit.Sherry, BeachRatznoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-25256711841028946752010-06-28T07:21:53.462-04:002010-06-28T07:21:53.462-04:00Hi Gertie,
I've just linked to this post at m...Hi Gertie,<br /><br />I've just linked to this post at <a href="http://mollyandmango.blogspot.com/p/simplicity-sewing-book.html" rel="nofollow">my blog</a>. I scanned in some pages of The Simplicity Sewing book from 1953 which has a sizing measurement chart and tips for taking measurements.<br /><br />I notice that the early misses sizes slot in among the teen sizes, so you get teen 12 and women 12 with the same bust, waist and chest measurement but misses are wider in the back, chest and neck and longer in height, back and sleeve length. At average height 5'3, teen sizes would be good for the modern day petite with a small bust (or "less mature" as it is described!).<br /><br />I would add that going by high bust is good for those with narrow backs and shoulders as well as fuller busts because it measures the frame. Also the ease in these patterns can be as much as 5inches (it says 4.5 inches in the Simplicity book but the 1960 Butterick pattern I'm working on has 5" in the bust) so as Angie says you my not need to do an FBA. <br /><br />Its always worth doing a muslin to see if you can save yourself that effort and check how high they've put the bustline! I do for vintage patterns because you just can't be sure about the measurements (I'm sure they're measuring tapes were on a different scale!).Social Historianhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09930089762630968441noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-65771288865056314042010-06-24T08:18:26.905-04:002010-06-24T08:18:26.905-04:00Very intersting tips! I arrived here trough a link...Very intersting tips! I arrived here trough a link posted on another vintage inspired sexing blog, and I'm really glad I did. The two 50's patterns I tryied so far, which were supposed to be my size, both turned out to be two big. I thought I got my measurements wrong when converting from cms to inches, but it might not be only that...<br /><br />I've added your blog to my reader and will be sure to read it regularly!amelie no morihttp://amelienomori.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-13746205338280977862010-06-23T00:52:55.573-04:002010-06-23T00:52:55.573-04:00I love the look of vintage patterns. I've rece...I love the look of vintage patterns. I've recently purchased a couple of the Vogue vintage patterns to try. I love the 30's and 40's styles. I'm just getting into the vintage patterns so I appreciate the info on fitting and selecting the appropriate size. I think that I will have to find a book on fitting patterns. I will check out your suggestion. <br />Btw, It seems that we have the same bust and waist measurements! If you are around 5'6" and are somewhat 'hourglass' shaped, then you are my virtual model--lol.Marlahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06224219410776083011noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-11598723223616744362010-06-21T12:09:03.439-04:002010-06-21T12:09:03.439-04:00Late to the show, but as always, you've got an...Late to the show, but as always, you've got another fascinating post. <br /><br />The problem I'm having with beginning to sew again (last thing was a cloak nearly 10 years ago) is trying to figure out which adjustments I actually need. Having no access to sewing classes (lack of funds) means that I'm mainly researching online, and while I've seen lots of references to adjustments, and how to draft them, I've not seen anything that says how to know which adjustments you need. <br /><br />Does Fit For Real People include that? I've been toying with ordering it online, but I'd rather get one book if I can get away with it instead of two or three books...zbhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14604160224433157260noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-6112076357449592172010-06-20T20:29:34.064-04:002010-06-20T20:29:34.064-04:00"if you're bigger or smaller than a B cup..."if you're bigger or smaller than a B cup, expect to have to make bust alterations."<br /><br />Actually, I'll disagree with this blanket statement. I'm a D cup and I rarely have to do a(n) FBA on vintage 50s & 60s patterns. That perky high bust (bullet bras!) that Casey mentioned in her comment actually adds enough room that I rarely need to add more with the traditional FBA. I do a muslin to check in case I need a bit of additional length in front. But essentially I do NOT need to always do an FBA, whereas for most modern patterns I do.<br /><br />The 30s and 40s had a slimmer silhouette in general but so many feature gathering at the yoke in front, that there is enough fullness I rarely need an FBA for those either (but again, muslins are your best friend when you sew vintage!)<br /><br />Also, the other Angie posting above me is correct. Vintage patterns were in fact sized as a continuation of year/age, with 8 meaning "8 years". It's very intersting research if you're so inclined! <br /><br />angie -- wesewvintage.wordpress.comangie.ahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01575366388194033626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-28656918527369384202010-06-20T19:32:42.535-04:002010-06-20T19:32:42.535-04:00to FourthDaughter: Make sure you are shopping for...to FourthDaughter: Make sure you are shopping for vintage patterns by measurements and not by size number. A modern size 8 is close to a vintage size 18 -- there may not be any grading at all (let alone 10 sizes worth).<br /><br />I may need correction here, but weren't the size numbers a continutation of the "age" sizes for children? After children's sizes 8 and 10 came misses sizes 12 and 14? So if you are feeling badly about needing a size 18, just think of yourself as vintage teen-age size!Angiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05412393755590311829noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-71172102546488825082010-06-20T18:50:50.484-04:002010-06-20T18:50:50.484-04:00I agree with tracing your patterns first so that t...I agree with tracing your patterns first so that the original is not damaged. After all, this is the only way that intact vintage patterns will be available to future sewers.<br /><br />I use lightweight non-woven interfacing which is durable and makes for very easy tissue fitting.<br /><br />http://perfectsewandfit.com has been a great find for me. It is now a pay per month service, but it has the most comprehensive advice on fitting that I have found. You can also join a monthly sew-along and be advised on your specific fitting issues. You upload photos of your garment for advice from Patricia Schoeman and there are relevant videos on key fitting issues. I have no personal link with the site, but it is excellent and a great way to 'coach' you through fitting a garment.susanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17474457671500871145noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-36777516232245584132010-06-20T15:37:57.221-04:002010-06-20T15:37:57.221-04:00The comments here are nearly as helpful as the ori...The comments here are nearly as helpful as the original post. Thanks ladies.Elizahttp://www.saffronsthreads.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-3508754493225638372010-06-20T07:56:15.993-04:002010-06-20T07:56:15.993-04:00Great post. I pattern-draft and make my own clothe...Great post. I pattern-draft and make my own clothes and have recently used a couple of vintage patterns to inspire a sewing pattern collection (check out my blog- I'm working on it at the moment: http://goldfinchandeagle.blogspot.com/). The patterns were from the 1950s when women wore very different underwear to us nowadays- conical bras, waspies/ waist- cinchers and petticoats, which gave them a different foundation shape. One dress I made I had to lower the darts, as they were very high and a pair of trousers had masses of fabric at the hips. The pattern collection I am working on is inspired by vintage style, but designed to fit the modern shape. As far as grading and drafting goes, I cant recommend Winifred Aldrich enough. Her books are complex, but once you start getting to grips with the terminology and methods, they are fantastic resources.<br />Sarah xSarah Magillhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15410613888063452908noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-7410586893139398052010-06-19T23:35:54.357-04:002010-06-19T23:35:54.357-04:00Thanks for the post. Mens clothing vintage patter...Thanks for the post. Mens clothing vintage patterns are better beause there is only one size one the sheet. And patterns from the seventies fit more like today's mens high fashion and have more style than do current patterns. With a small amount restyling with collar width on shirts and rise depth on pants I can get a pattern that is more fashionable than anything I can buy. Its interesting to read about womens vintage patterns.Frednoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-41751309224156806432010-06-19T20:23:03.329-04:002010-06-19T20:23:03.329-04:00This is not a tip but a comment... I have found th...This is not a tip but a comment... I have found that vintage patterns tend to go the other way, in that it's pretty hard to find SMALL patterns. I often come across things in sizes 14 and up, but it's rare to find anything in size 8-10. This may of course be because in those days the sizing started from a 10 or something rather than the 00 sizes that are around now, but it always makes me wonder whether smaller women were able to buy ready-made stuff more easily and therefore just didn't need to sew, or whether they just didn't like to give their patterns to op shops?? I still buy bigger sized patterns because I love the pictures (I'm really not into photos on pattern covers, regardless of the fact that they give you a much better idea of what the pattern will look like finished) but all that resizing work from a size 18 down to an 8 or whatever I would be is just too much for my brain to handle!<br />Also, I think when it comes to 50s patterns in particular, they did not MAKE any patterns with busts as small as mine!! Due to the hourglass shape that they were aiming for anything that has a bust that is my size will have a waist so small it would only fit a toddler!!Fourth Daughterhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16289520392967828383noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-40433606140609058852010-06-19T15:03:37.299-04:002010-06-19T15:03:37.299-04:00Very helpful. I also wonder if women had better po...Very helpful. I also wonder if women had better posture in the '40s and '50s. That may well affect how patterns fit.denise@thebluegardenia.comhttp://thebluegardenia.typepad.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-2460237639305075342010-06-19T12:47:22.722-04:002010-06-19T12:47:22.722-04:00Wow! Excellent information! Thanks so much.Wow! Excellent information! Thanks so much.Melaniehttp://brazenbags.blogspot.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-46797660555475357362010-06-19T10:56:35.247-04:002010-06-19T10:56:35.247-04:00Gertie, I just picked up Fit for Real People based...Gertie, I just picked up Fit for Real People based on your recommendation and oh holy cow why did I not own this already? I'm on the lookout now for their Pants for Real People book! I stayed up all night reading this book over and over!<br /><br />Thanks for the headsup!!<br /><br />~Kelli @ SmidgensKellihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16343410224557156646noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-53674520344732012182010-06-19T03:30:57.512-04:002010-06-19T03:30:57.512-04:00Super cool post.
This (I found it on one of my pat...Super cool post.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_iqG65Imthkc/S4JHfQroVNI/AAAAAAAAASI/UyjLf-IazDw/s1600-h/standardmeasurements.jpg" rel="nofollow">This</a> (I found it on one of my pattern instruction sheets) is a basic size guide for patterns up until the late 40s, when the 'size' 40 began to be replaced with sizes 20, then 22 1/2 etc. <br /><br />I tend to get hi bust patterns for this reason. Im always having to adjust patterns no matter what. I have a 42" high bust, so I try to get size 40+ patterns.<br /><br />Plus size pattern are totally out there...if I havent bought them all :)Shelleyjhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05223944949880318245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-61166858099943910942010-06-19T01:47:10.062-04:002010-06-19T01:47:10.062-04:00My largest issue is lengthening the pattern. It...My largest issue is lengthening the pattern. It's easy to add or subtract according to measurements given on the envelope but I wasn't really sure what the standard sizing was based on height-wise. I'm not sure if anyone else has this issue, but I found a link to the standard sizing that was established in the 40s, 50s: http://www.apparelsearch.com/Definitions/Miscellaneous/US_standard_clothing_sizes.htm<br />It gives average height for regular and petite, plus backwaist lengths for each size!<br />I probably should've done a little more sleuthing on that earlier!Nancyhttp://www.etsy.com/shop/thingsfoundnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-56205199724741839202010-06-19T01:35:12.701-04:002010-06-19T01:35:12.701-04:00Another thing to be wary of is how waist sizes in ...Another thing to be wary of is how waist sizes in proportion to bust size varies according to the era and pattern company. For example, I see size 12 patterns with a 30 inch bust, 25 inch waist and 33(!!) inch hips, but then size 14 patterns with a 32 inch bust, 25 inch waist and 35 inch hips! If you're not fond of resizing (like me) it pays to look at the back of the envelope whenever an image is provided and see what the measurements actually are.Miss Emmihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07251628463640473391noreply@blogger.com