tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post3036908395481468789..comments2024-03-14T16:03:32.434-04:00Comments on Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing: The Muslin BacklashGertiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comBlogger142125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-24177251550054952422013-03-13T01:15:49.132-04:002013-03-13T01:15:49.132-04:00I love this article, thanks for posting it. I am ...I love this article, thanks for posting it. I am a beginner to sewing and my friend (who is more advanced) suggested I always make a muslin. I have sewn a few garments now and am I ever glad I did make muslins - not because I had to adjust the fit (I'm not even really sure how to do that, yet!), but because sewing the muslin gave me practice on the skills I am just starting to develop - like good topstitching (I can experiment with stitch length, needle type, etc. on the muslin), hemming, rolled hems, sewing on bias tape and installing zippers. Any mistakes I am going to make, I will get out on the rough draft. By the time I've finished my muslin, I am way more confident going into the real thing. I use old sheets as muslin for my kids' clothes and then they use the muslins for p.j.'s or dress-up clothes, so it feels less wasteful to me. I probably make a way more detailed muslin than most people because I am not just making it to check the fit - but perhaps that will change with experience.JJ LaCroixnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-59655985407504441952011-08-31T07:18:09.497-04:002011-08-31T07:18:09.497-04:00I don't really understand the resistance to mu...I don't really understand the resistance to muslin making. It is inexpensive fabric or just ugly fabric and used to perfect the fit of a garment pattern. Once the changes are made, you can then make dozens of it. They literally save time from altering every single garment pattern you have. For example, a pair of pants needs a muslin(s) until the fit is correct. Then you can use that pattern for any pants you ever need to make, making style changes as you go along for each specific garment (instead of making up 5 different pant patterns with different variations to distinguish them). Same thing for blouses, t-shirts, a shift dress etc. Once you then have your "master" then make whatever changes for design and you can always muslin them if you care to (adding a drop waist or a pleat).<br /><br />I think the BS website has a younger cohort who may just look at things differently --have a more immediate sense of time and payoff and there seem to be more beginners there. If you look at the gallery, one can clearly see the need for muslins and thus there is the complicated bit when it comes to sewing websites-- we want to encourage people, not shoot them down so tend to be less critical as a teacher. We see many "what went wrong" posts in forums. On the other hand, there are also some very talented individuals who are in or have completed fashion and design school who are very inspirational as well as the more experienced home sewists.<br /><br />My grandmothers were seamstresses--one worked in theater and sewed all her own clothing and put separate patterns together like jigsaw puzzles--she cut my mother's winter coat from a wool blanket, the other had a father who was a tailor and she was also skilled with embroidery, crochet and knitting and was just plain thrifty. Both had significant times in their lives living through economic depressions and did not waste anything. Both made mockups.Rowsellahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02744798941132024212noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-51516557496849352642011-07-18T02:55:03.612-04:002011-07-18T02:55:03.612-04:00I agree. I sewed for 30 years without a single mus...I agree. I sewed for 30 years without a single muslim and my fitting technique improved as I worked with extra-large seam allowances between Vogue sizes 12-14. Now I find that Burda's size differentials allow for much more precise cutting between 38-42 and that they always fit well without a muslin. I'd make an allowance as you do for the bodice fitting, particularly in something with a tricky neckline, given I have a shallow chest.<br /><br />Meanwhile, check out my blog. Are you ready for the Poodle Pants challenge?Inkstainhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03849218858979776045noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-29211452964379712532011-07-17T20:59:54.517-04:002011-07-17T20:59:54.517-04:00Muslins (and Swedish tracing paper) have completel...Muslins (and Swedish tracing paper) have completely changed my sewing life. I first read about doing a muslin in Threads a few years ago. I thought "Hmm, that seems like a lot of work, but I'll give it a try next time around." So I did. The pattern was coming together perfectly. Then I tried it on. I looked in the mirror, completely horrified. The garment was way too big and way too short to be flattering. I remember thinking, "And this is the point when I would normally cry." But it was just a muslin, so instead, I started making adjustments. The fact that I make a full bust adjustment and have to lower to bust point by a couple of inches means my changes are often too complex to make confidently without a muslin. I also want to know if the length of all the elements is flattering, the width is correct, the neckline falling in the right spot, etc. So many things could be wrong with a pattern. I'm too scared to fly without a muslin now. I enjoy my sewing so much more if I take my time to do it right. I work full time and have two kids. I don't want to waste my time on throw-away garments. I want something I can wear proudly.Jeanne Mariehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00161004352267003666noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-45961964324193849542011-07-17T20:44:42.327-04:002011-07-17T20:44:42.327-04:00Rebekah:
You might want to look at the following ...Rebekah:<br /><br />You might want to look at the following book, which shows people how to make "rub-off" patterns. It's gotten good reviews and I'm considering buying it myself.<br /><br />http://www.amazon.com/Patternmaking-Perfect-Fit-Technique-Re-create/dp/0823026663/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1310948034&sr=1-1<br /><br />The value of copying something that already fits is that whatever "engineering" the original pattern contains will be incorporated in the rub-off, assuming you are able to do it correctly. With an unknown commercial pattern, you don't know how it's going to fit. I no longer trust the photo on the envelope. You might want to pick something very simple to copy at first, say, a vest that does not have darts. <br /><br />I was looking at the Cabrera Tailoring book for women's wear, and it discusses many fitting changes for a commercial pattern.<br /><br />http://www.amazon.com/Classic-Tailoring-Techniques-Construction-Collection/dp/087005435X<br /><br />For example, it explains (as do other books) why it's so important to maintain the grain line.<br /><br />There's an illustration that shows a tuck taken in the back of a muslin jacket (they say that anyone other than a very experienced tailor should make a practice garment) to account for the client's swayback. The tuck is then duplicated in the commercial pattern by folding it. Then the grain line in the original pattern has to be redrawn to keep it vertical so the altered back will hang straight. (I don't know if any of this means anything.)<br /><br />Having taken a smattering of pattern making, I do know how to transfer markings. It is important to be extremely precise at each stage.<br /><br />Still, it's a matter of trial and error. Kathleen Fasanella, a pattern maker, small business consultant and blogger wrote somewhere that there are so many interconnected factors in making a pattern that it's not usually possible to take everything into account on the first try.<br /><br />It's hard for people to do this on their own. It's difficult to measure one's body without distorting the measurement by turning. You can't get a full view, even if you have a great mirror set-up. <br /><br />Most difficult, if you have asymmetries, as most people do, it's hard to know to what degree to correct them. In some cases you simply pick the "better" side. In others, a different approach is required. An experienced person who has some objectivity can really help, especially if you have little or no background.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-33315673824804076622011-07-17T20:27:28.072-04:002011-07-17T20:27:28.072-04:00The timing of this post kind of amuses me - I'...The timing of this post kind of amuses me - I've just been having a personal rebellion against making mockups. <br /><br />I was taught to make mockups when my mother was teaching me to sew, and she learned to make them in the 60s. Not sure it's *really* a modern development! That said, they were definitely reserved for particular circumstances - special occasion, expensive fabric, unusual cut, or, to begin with, just being a learner.<br /><br />All that said, I just started sewing a new coat out of gorgeous (and not cheap) purple wool, without having done a mockup first. I had to psych myself up to cut into the wool, but I'm kind of enjoying the freedom of having told myself it's not the end of the world if it doesn't work!Eviehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04891871835548774272noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-30370671967560509332011-07-17T19:40:41.506-04:002011-07-17T19:40:41.506-04:00Thanks to the person (aka anonymous) who got back ...Thanks to the person (aka anonymous) who got back to me on my question concerning the transfer of muslin changes to the tissue pattern. Your last paragraph on how to "pin out" the fabric using pins is what I was searching for. <br /><br />I tried using this method once before when I was a member of Gertie's Crepe sew-along, but I didn't have great results. I believe I followed her instructions correctly, too. In my opinion, the real problem lies in my inexperience. That is why I am looking for an in-depth source on the subject; be it a book, video, online course, or a website. <br /><br />I do own "The Perfect Fit" but it does not go into the method of pinning and marking the muslin and transferring the changes to the actual sewing pattern. Do you or anyone else know of a source that goes deeper into this alteration technique?<br /><br />Rebekah<br />http://www.artandneedlework.blogspot.comRebekahhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12937704182716495968noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-37685045918309813852011-07-17T16:48:07.889-04:002011-07-17T16:48:07.889-04:00i think making a muslin is important, especially f...i think making a muslin is important, especially for a beginner like me. but it's easy to get complacent. damn, i don't even baste my pieces! :P<br /><br />that said, i made a muslin for the bodice of a dress that i was recently making because i was suspicious of the measurements. it was a dress that required a lining, so i simply used the fabric that i was using for the lining. it ended up fitting well, so, no wastage of fabric there! :Pgwenstellahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12280558618281132160noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-62827987844406168462011-07-17T14:47:44.985-04:002011-07-17T14:47:44.985-04:00I can't imagine what there is to argue about! ...I can't imagine what there is to argue about! Make a muslin of a new pattern if you need to before cutting into expensive fabric. By taking the time (and expense) to do that, you'll be sure to havea good fit and not waste your better fashion fabric. If you don't need it, don't do it. The end. What works for one doesn't necessarily work for others. Isn't that why we sew? Because we are individuals?Karrol/Kiki von Tikihttp://kikivontiki.etsy.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-36815650900998136642011-07-17T14:29:46.105-04:002011-07-17T14:29:46.105-04:00I effectively make a muslin for all my tops at the...I effectively make a muslin for all my tops at the moment because I'm relatively new to garment sewing, and I'm a slightly odd shape! I found that if I make things to fit my G cup bust they can be very loose above, and I don't want to waste the good fabric on something that doesn't fit! Ikea does cotton by the metre for £1.50, which works great for this, and once I have a bag full of used muslins that I know I won't reuse, I'll take them to the fabric recycling bin down the road.Katy Cameronhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04374079358515448439noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-71783873751026508862011-07-17T11:28:09.293-04:002011-07-17T11:28:09.293-04:00Funny, only one post mentioned using a lining or u...Funny, only one post mentioned using a lining or underlining as a muslin--a great way to avoid waste. Making a garment that fits well and will last for several, if not many, years is ecologically sound. I wonder why there is such a brou-ha-ha about this--make muslins if you need to, be mindful and above all--enjoy sewing!Valeriehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01895625114035965626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-2320599485493308512011-07-17T08:30:01.470-04:002011-07-17T08:30:01.470-04:00when I was in college we had no choice we had to m...when I was in college we had no choice we had to make a muslin or toile as we called. I was so glad I did especially when you design the pattern yourself and realise there are some Major faults, waist lines too low, crotch to high etc.. this is something I still stick by for my own patterns.<br /><br />if I'm making a commercial pattern though I usually double check the measurements and the finished garment measurement and decided if i want to make a muslin or not. other factors include how complicated the pattern is, how expensive the fabric is and where I intend to wear the garment as I don't want to turn up to a wedding with a poorly constructed/fitting outfit. plus it provides a trial run of how to make it I can then decided if I want to change things or use a different method<br /><br />I do sometimes feel guilty about making a muslin. I think about wasting fabric that isn't going to be used but recently I've started donating my muslin's and fabric scraps to textile/charity recycling banks as apparently they can be used for rag making - so maybe I shouldn't feel so guilty after all.<br /><br />fashbrickroad.blogspot.com/Sarahhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09796254211159293271noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-21595877167870009942011-07-17T02:34:56.273-04:002011-07-17T02:34:56.273-04:00Rebekah:
Because of the headache-inducing (for so...Rebekah:<br /><br />Because of the headache-inducing (for some), not to mention time-consuming and expensive aspects of making muslins, I am trying to look for flattering shapes that I can play with once I've created the basic blocks. I love using different fabrics and embellishments. I've invested too much in R & D to make just one. :-)<br /><br />I believe I'll think it was worth it.<br /><br />One other thing: I've noticed some sewing blogs have started offering features on how to knock off a look, from say, Anthropologie or Modcloth. In principle, it looks great. A pattern with the same shape will be proposed, along with some fabric suggestions. <br /><br />But I've learned that a technical drawing on a pattern envelope can be misleading. Maybe the pattern, made up, will create a similar effect, but maybe not, and you have no idea how much tinkering will be required.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-34038853783068129632011-07-17T02:13:31.747-04:002011-07-17T02:13:31.747-04:00Rebekah:
The easiest thing to do is to trace your...Rebekah:<br /><br />The easiest thing to do is to trace your pattern, either one size, or blended sizes depending on your measurements onto Swedish Tracing Paper, a translucent medium that can be pinned and apparently sewn. That will be your working draft pattern. If the fit issues are simple, you may be able to use it as a muslin. So far, I've always needed a muslin.<br /><br />Get a book like "The Perfect Fit," http://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Singer-Sewing-Reference-Library/dp/0865732140 or "Fit for Real People," which seems to have the same basic information, but I prefer the presentation of the first book.<br /><br />More important, get help. It's very difficult to fit oneself, especially without a customized dress form or sloper,and even then you won't know how the garment fits when you're in motion. Get assistance from someone who has experience in fitting; it's a different skill from sewing, and even if one has taken pattern making that will only provide a foundation. Besides, pattern making students learn to draft patterns for an idealized form, not real people. Contemporary retailers like clothing that looks good folded on shelves. The patterns for those things look different from anything you'd turn out.<br /><br />Fit books explain how to "pin out" fabric on a muslin and to mark new lines using the pins as a guide. The new lines have to be "trued." Once you have the new lines, you would take the Swedish Tracing Paper pattern and lay it on top of the muslin and copy the new lines onto the draft pattern. Then you'd probably make another muslin, which you do by taking a piece of dressmaker's tracing paper face up, and laying first the muslin then the draft pattern. You would use a tracing wheel with round edges (not a "stiletto") to transfer the changes to the fabric. You should also transfer the sewing lines. When that's done you would cut out the muslin and baste it. <br /><br />Transferring the changes can be a "headache" because it's not mechanical. You have to use judgment and experience helps.<br /><br />This answer may be too detailed, but I wasn't entirely sure what you were asking. Hope it helped some.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-39509412934505594752011-07-16T17:33:56.674-04:002011-07-16T17:33:56.674-04:00I've only made muslins for the bodices of dres...I've only made muslins for the bodices of dresses, never have I tried doing one of a skirt or whatnot. <br /><br />I don't find muslin making a problem (I am willing to go the extra mile when I sew), but figuring out how to apply my muslin changes to the tissue pattern always gives me a headache. Can Gertie or one of the commenters help me in finding a book or website on this subject?<br /><br />Rebekah<br />http://www.artandneedlework.blogspot.comRebekahhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12937704182716495968noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-45771724397629446722011-07-16T15:44:19.879-04:002011-07-16T15:44:19.879-04:00As someone that usually is a combination of not ju...As someone that usually is a combination of not just 2 but three different pattern sizes AND a fairly inexperienced sewer, I definitely support making muslins, at least for very fitted things. Just in the same way I've learned that clothing off the rack isn't alway cut to my taste, neither are all pattern sizes and I'd rather be able to make adjustments on a muslin than risk ruining good fabric. That, and I find it is good practice for me.<br /><br />I was also told by a friend and mentor that sews wedding gowns, costumes and the like that running a line of stitching at your seam allowance around all the edges of each muslin piece helps prevent stretch so it stands up as a pattern better (not to mention marks the seam allowance which is handy for fitting!)Katyahttp://toastyknits.blogspot.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-59558615282943390542011-07-16T09:14:08.172-04:002011-07-16T09:14:08.172-04:00I was reading the burdastyle post and noticed the ...I was reading the burdastyle post and noticed the author suggested reusing the muslin as a pattern. I was told that a muslin should be transferred to paper or oaktag after a couple of uses because the fabric stretches.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-76442538766517155152011-07-15T20:58:13.269-04:002011-07-15T20:58:13.269-04:00I recently bought a Vogue Fitting Shell (1004). O...I recently bought a Vogue Fitting Shell (1004). One of the many pages of instructions states:<br /><br />"<i>Fit and Fashion</i><br /><br />"Fit is not simply making a garment large enough to cover your body. As you well know, the fit of your clothing drastically affects your overall appearance, how comfortable you feel and ultimately, your impression on others.<br /><br />"Poorly-fitted garments accentuate your figure flaws, make you appear unkempt and can add years to your appearance.<br /><br />"Well-fitting garments make you feel good about yourself and make you appear well groomed.<br /><br />"<b>Fitting is a skill separate from sewing. Garments that are perfectly sewn will still appear home-made unless they fit properly.</b> Fit is a function of 3 factors:<br /><br />--Correctly interpreting the clues on the pattern envelope.<br /><br />--Selecting the proper style and fabric for your body shape.<br /><br />--Technical fitting skills."<br /><br />That's a lot to achieve without a muslin.atelierflounoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-14445149610121925522011-07-15T20:30:09.858-04:002011-07-15T20:30:09.858-04:00I too missed the original post--and sadly the cont...I too missed the original post--and sadly the controversy. <br /><br />I think that's a good thought--that you've never regretted making a muslin. I agree. The time that I've spent on muslins was worth my time--if not for fit, than for construction or to try out design details. <br /><br />I often reuse the fabric from given muslins for more muslins--if I use actual fabric, then I'll save it for projects for my kids, or if I'm using quite a bit of fabric, than I'll reuse it for projects with lots of smaller pieces. I also love the idea of using leftover fabric that's just sitting around anyhow. Muslins don't have to waste fabric. <br /><br />I saw Sandra Betzina in a class last week, and she was saying that the lack of consistency in pattern companies' sizing is due to their straying away from using blocks and instead measuring RTW garments and reproducing them into patterns. This explains a lot for me.Elizabeth Made Thishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16611395530073290874noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-90116923830487048672011-07-15T16:09:44.809-04:002011-07-15T16:09:44.809-04:00My shoulder/neckline fit is so often awful in both...My shoulder/neckline fit is so often awful in both RTW and home-sewing patterns, that I often make a muslin of just the neckline area if nothing else, as experience has taught me the the hard way to fit that area with care. <br /><br />I love making muslins. I don't finish the seam edges. Design details like pockets, etc, I just cut out rough and baste in place to check for flattering placement. Sometimes I find out that a particular style looks terrible on me and I need to abandon the project immediately. So much easier when it is just an old sheet rather than some high-end gorgeous garment fabric. <br /><br />If there is a technique I am unfamiliar with I go ahead and do it by the book on super-cheap fabric where I won't regret the errors. <br /><br />My favorite part of muslins is that I often use a marker and write directly onto the muslin for greater accuracy when transferring to the pattern. Or if the alterations are extensive, and it is a must-have or complex piece, I will use my muslin as the pattern itself. <br /><br />Since I have never found a pattern company whose patterns are geared to my shoulder/neckline issues, making a muslin works for me. But I know other sewers who have a very good fit with a certain patternmaker and they don't bother to muslin. <br /><br />I did read the original post and quote and though it was probably unintentional, the writer appeared to judge other sewists for making muslins. Sewing is such a difficult craft and takes a certain amount of spunk to take it up and continue with it. I don't have it in my heart to judge another sewist on her technique. The results justify the means in sewing because in the end you just want to turn out a well-made garment. Whatever works for you in that pursuit.sewistafashionistahttp://sewstorebought.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-12188189462361130802011-07-15T14:48:27.246-04:002011-07-15T14:48:27.246-04:00I make muslins for the same reasons I read movie r...I make muslins for the same reasons I read movie reviews from trusted critics before I see a movie in a theater these days: It's just too damn expensive to go to a movie that's not good. <b>Same thing with fabric and sewing.</b> Fabric is not cheap and plentiful like it was when our grandmothers sewed. And being a working mom who commutes two hours everyday, my time is expensive too. So yeah, put me in the pro-muslin camp.<br /><br />I saw that same comment you referenced and wondered where she was getting her intel that pattern companies are now lax with their sizing. I did some freelance work recently for one of the big four and neither saw nor heard evidence of this when I met with their people and visited their offices several times.Meghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16245730088359572839noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-45766164382500108092011-07-15T13:22:12.473-04:002011-07-15T13:22:12.473-04:00I too posted a comment and mentioned the using of ...I too posted a comment and mentioned the using of the tissue fitting method, especially for beginner fashion sewers.<br /><br />Using a toile also has its place, when fashion sewers (no matter their level)and beginners are ready, or during a project whereby they identify specific problems.<br /><br />I have always (and always will)perform both of these methods and I strongly advise my readers to better acquaint themselves with these practices.Colleen G Leahttp://www.fashionsewingblog.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-1444422359109749602011-07-15T12:59:03.181-04:002011-07-15T12:59:03.181-04:00Forgot to mention that I turn my linings inside ou...Forgot to mention that I turn my linings inside out and pin where my new seams should meet the body.<br /><br />Do you turn muslins inside out to get a good fit? The pictures I have seen of muslins usually are right side out. I think it would be easier for a newby to do as I do and wear it inside out.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-20250900279840718442011-07-15T12:55:51.331-04:002011-07-15T12:55:51.331-04:00Most of the formals I make require lining and so d...Most of the formals I make require lining and so do my suits. If a pattern does not require a lining, I duplicate the original. Just my preference to line.<br /><br />I always presew the lining and fit at that point. Any adjustments I made are easily transferred to the shell of the garment.<br /><br />So, I do not make a muslin but use the lining as a muslin.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-17206217366890599382011-07-15T11:22:52.165-04:002011-07-15T11:22:52.165-04:00Perhaps I should add that once I have the fit I am...Perhaps I should add that once I have the fit I am happy with the muslin goes into the clothing recycling bin at the supermarket - don't you have that facility? Anything clothing that is suitable goes to third world countries and everything else gets "mashed up" and recycled into other materialsPin Queenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01428676436901036861noreply@blogger.com