tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post1923181881523101090..comments2024-03-14T16:03:32.434-04:00Comments on Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing: Guest Post: Sewing Knits Without a SergerGertiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comBlogger44125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-46270310499066669772013-08-19T20:48:44.115-04:002013-08-19T20:48:44.115-04:00I'm so confused about sewing knits. Some peop...I'm so confused about sewing knits. Some people say they use a straight stitch and stretch the fabric as they sew - doesn't that result in stretched out seams? Every time I've tried sewing with knits, the seams are very stretched out and rippled. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to use stay tape or what.Lissa Bnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-91689034626099568672013-08-11T12:54:08.317-04:002013-08-11T12:54:08.317-04:00Thanks Jen! Great tips.Thanks Jen! Great tips.Barbnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-79434389946210056602013-06-19T05:17:39.906-04:002013-06-19T05:17:39.906-04:00I really like this post and I am so happy that I c...I really like this post and I am so happy that I came across it.<br />Very well done with the whole thing.Golden Bra Strapshttp://9thelm.com/strappys-decorative-bra-straps/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-65124818222949636872012-04-05T00:51:04.971-04:002012-04-05T00:51:04.971-04:00I learned to sew knitted fabrics about 25 years ag...I learned to sew knitted fabrics about 25 years ago, when hardly anyone owned an overlocker/serger. All I had was a basic Singer. I wore all my knits with success for years (until they went way too far out of fashion). The technique I was taught at class was to stretch the fabric as you sew. It was so easy! Nowadays, I have a Pfaff sewing machine with stretch stitches, I use the straight stitch and then overcast with the fake serger stitch- no problems!Jenn Quick (Aust)noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-34856354877591166092010-10-12T01:25:16.592-04:002010-10-12T01:25:16.592-04:00Lorri,
You could try doing a hem (especially on t-...Lorri,<br />You could try doing a hem (especially on t-shirts) with a twin needle. (Zig zag capability should be able to use twin needles, depending on width). Be sure to get twin needles made for jersey. Also, it helps to use a stabilizer and stretch the fabric a little when you sew.Jlynnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-76942636692551724652010-07-31T10:36:37.062-04:002010-07-31T10:36:37.062-04:00Gertie, Love your blog. I'm assuming you have ...Gertie, Love your blog. I'm assuming you have a serger and would love to know what kind you have/recomend. I have been sewing with knits for years and love it. I just want to finish my edges and hems with a more "professional" look and the sig-zag just doesn't cut it for me. Any suggestions??Lorrinoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-34970189088696900662010-07-20T05:50:06.760-04:002010-07-20T05:50:06.760-04:00I find zigzag works fine for seams but it looks pr...I find zigzag works fine for seams but it looks pretty crappy where you need top stitching (eg. hems). I've heard using a twin needle can leave a much better result - do you have any experience of this?stashavalanchehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13072867555880578373noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-22286385167051280692010-07-20T05:21:22.133-04:002010-07-20T05:21:22.133-04:00I do not have an over-locker but both my old machi...I do not have an over-locker but both my old machine (18 years old) and my new machine have stitches suitable for stretchy knit fabrics. They range from a kind of reinforced straight stitch which is very tough and not quite straight so enabling give, to a stitch that is more definitely zig-zag based but again reinforced and also stitches that both sew the seam and over edge it at the same time. I have never wanted an over locker as it has seemed unnecessary to me. My seam finishes are excellent - again I have a range of choices. A little more work perhaps but that doesn't worry me. I would not use a normal zig zag for knits (that was indeed what used to be recommended in magazines etc some years ago) as although you get the stretch it is not a strong stitch, extending it to the edges would I feel create a vulnerable seam. If used shorter you still need to neaten the edges. I would use only if you have no other option. If buying a new machine, do look for at least one stretch stitch as there are a lot of fabrics that you will want to use. Many machines have them.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-69934058963259227162010-07-19T13:36:28.394-04:002010-07-19T13:36:28.394-04:00This is an amazing post and I love reading the com...This is an amazing post and I love reading the commentary. I've been using a zigzag but want to try out the overlocks. Anyone know a quick summation of the difference between the two in appearance or general function?<br />emilie<br />(http://online-sewing-paterns.com)emiliehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07249063538493907681noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-57876298491896218442010-07-16T20:51:13.127-04:002010-07-16T20:51:13.127-04:00Have you tried the knit interfacing? You can buy r...Have you tried the knit interfacing? You can buy rolls of it that are precut into different width strips for hems/shoulder seams/etc. (brandname: SewKeys??), or you can buy it by the yard. It reduces the rolling on hems, and is easier to use than clear elastic. You should easily be able to find it at any good store that sells knits. HTH!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-87131536715853822442010-07-16T15:05:42.413-04:002010-07-16T15:05:42.413-04:00I second the suggestion to look for older 'Str...I second the suggestion to look for older 'Stretch and Sew' tutorial books. The 70's had both double-knits and slinky Quiana jersey (Remember those Halston style dresses and dance skirts in Sat. Night Fever?), and many are still in good shape today.<br /><br />Here's a long-winded list of suggestions, may you learn from my mistakes!<br /><br />On-grain seamlines: Use a straight stitch with smaller stitches. That will release more thread along the sewing line, and provide more 'give'.<br />Seam line stabilizing: Add a 1/2" wide strip of iron-on tricot interfacing to stabilize a seam line before sewing and it will look perfect. This method can be used for skirt or blouse with seam line slits at hem. Fusible interfacing strips will also make a zipper go in more easily. (I have seen this used in Leon Max knits)<br />stay tape: go with a 1/2" wide strip of the knit cut on grain, for when fusible tricot isn't enough. Sew right down the middle of the stay tape when you sew the seam. (look at your T shirt shoulders for examples of this)<br />necklines: pre-sew a 'stay stitch' line ON the seam line before you sew a neckline that won't need to stretch, like a 'V' neckline. That way it won't ripple. You can actually pull the 'stay stitch' thread if a ripple shows up to flatten that line.<br />facing: use fusible tricot interfacing<br />needles: always use ball point needles to avoid skipping stitches<br />hems: use a double needle to get a faux 'cover stitch' effect that stretches<br />machines: pre-zig zag machines are iffy, as they were not developed to control knits--the later machines had wider feet and adjustments for knits.Jen Ohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12371112170847037417noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-54108016545393531632010-07-16T11:16:15.530-04:002010-07-16T11:16:15.530-04:00For hems on knits using a standard sewing machine ...For hems on knits using a standard sewing machine try the following to reduce stretching:<br /><br />1) Use tissue paper between the fabric and presser foot, and perhaps between the fabric a feed dogs. This will keep the knit from stretching out so much as it is pulled through. Assuming you are using some type of stretch stitch, there should be enough "give" in the hem to allow you to pull the garment on and off. Spray starch or fabric stabilizer products can be used for a similer purpose as the tissue paper, I just don't tend to have them around.<br /><br />2) Used in conjunction with the tissue paper trick, I like the appearance and durability of a 3-step zigzag better than a simple zigzag stitch. Check your machine or machine manual to see if you have this feature. Most machines made since the mid-seventies should have this stitch pattern.<br /><br />3) If you have a one-step zigzag only, or if you prefer that look, try a medium stitch width (perhaps 3mm) with a medium stitch lengh (perhaps 2mm to 3mm). Sometimes there is just too much thread in the seam and it causes the fabric to stretch out.<br /><br />4) You can just go with the stretched out look by using a lettuce edge on the hem. This is done by using a medium stitch width and a dense stich length (like the density used when making a buttonhole). Stretch the fabric as you feed it under the presser foot and you will have a lettuce edge.<br /><br />5) The best thing you can do is run some samples of seams and hem/edge finishes from scraps of fabric before you start on your project. Every knit fabric has it's own personality and learning how to work with the quirks before starting on your garment will make a big difference.Amynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-54439280335236424192010-07-16T03:44:39.578-04:002010-07-16T03:44:39.578-04:00Very well written post, Gertie!
And for knits that...Very well written post, Gertie!<br />And for knits that only stretch in one direction (horizontally) then there is no doubt: straight stitch for vertical seams (since the fabric wouldn't stretch vertically anyway) and zig zag stitch for seams in any other direction.<br /><br />But what happens when you have a knit that stretches in several directions? How do you sew your side seams then? I have never seen vertical seams sewn with a zigzag stitch. I can't imagine what they will look like if you zigzag stitch two pieces of fabric right sides together, and then you turn them inside out. The seam probably won't be crisp. Or it may be. This would be a perfect second part for this article.<br /><br />By the way, since I couldn't figure out this question, I bought a serger and I'm delighted with it, but I'm sure that there is a way around this problem without having to invest in a serger.<br /><br />Thank you for your fantastic blog!Rebecahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05945607421968237664noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-27014801553902138402010-07-15T20:42:42.767-04:002010-07-15T20:42:42.767-04:00Knits that roll on the edge can be used to make la...Knits that roll on the edge can be used to make layered tops or fancy edges or details its not all bad.Naihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17364867629537242088noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-82318966053367913042010-07-14T22:08:06.206-04:002010-07-14T22:08:06.206-04:00I use a locking overcast stitch for seams on knits...I use a locking overcast stitch for seams on knits, a narrow zigzag for sleeve hems, and what Viking calls an overlock stitch for the bottom hem. I use woven selvedge strips to stabilize the shoulder seams (back only) but nothing anywhere else. I bought some clear elastic last year but haven't known what to do with it.<br /><br />PS A friend bought me a used serger for $25 at a flea market but I couldn't figure it out in my 5-minute attention span, so it is stored with other non-working sewing machines.<br /><br />I am also oddly neurotic about finishing my raw edges. I am recovering, however. Now I can leave edges raw where they are going to be completely enclosed. But I have to take several deep breaths first. And lining doesn't count as completely enclosed.BetsyVhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14824251716471351275noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-39231504314892101842010-07-14T19:38:01.629-04:002010-07-14T19:38:01.629-04:00Great post!
You are absolutely right there is no ...Great post!<br /><br />You are absolutely right there is no magical unicorn answer to knits (not even handling them on a serger either). I like sewing on a machine for lots of reasons and am in no hurry to buy a serger - but YMMV in so many ways when you're using a home machine. Incidentally I do not share the disdain for raw edges etc etc and in fact love the way they look as a design element (see below).<br /><br />I posted a <a href="http://kelly.hogaboom.org/?p=6023" rel="nofollow">tutorial with some additional tips and pictures</a> if anyone is interested! Very close-up pics and I hope they help.kellyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08183686721305419157noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-35325351641908955992010-07-14T19:13:06.645-04:002010-07-14T19:13:06.645-04:00Great tips. I like the idea of clear elastic and I...Great tips. I like the idea of clear elastic and I always wondered where to use it. Thanks!The Long & Winding Bobbinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14658194250368257881noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-90476825880481604552010-07-14T17:49:31.188-04:002010-07-14T17:49:31.188-04:00Your experience is in industrial manufacturing? Do...Your experience is in industrial manufacturing? Does that mean you know stuff about marketing a clothing line? Can you point me in the right direction? I would really like to market my line of Barbie clothing on a bigger scale than Etsy, and I have NO IDEA where to start. Is there a book or a website that can get me started? I love your blog. If you have any info that might help me, will you please drop me a line at modestbarbie@gmail.com? If not, I will still follow your blog. :)Amyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05247739762385947133noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-53110972573596453282010-07-14T16:41:22.471-04:002010-07-14T16:41:22.471-04:00Chrrristine, have you tried sewing your knit hems ...Chrrristine, have you tried sewing your knit hems with stabiliser? I swear by soluble stabiliser (and a walking foot) for knits that go wavy if you look at them too hard, let along run them through a sewing machine.Emmy Joneshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14665241940139066897noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-49800763182731448322010-07-14T15:12:33.133-04:002010-07-14T15:12:33.133-04:00Hi! Thanks for your posts on sewing with knits! I&...Hi! Thanks for your posts on sewing with knits! I'm on my first knit project and so far it's working out better than I feared, even with my regular sewing machine. I've been wondering... is it ok to use a straight stitch for side seams? I did that on a pair of shorts and an undershirt which are both cut to fit but aren't extremely tight. The seam stretches a bit, because the fabric is stretched a little when I sew it, and I don't think those seams will be under a lot of tension... Anyway, I'm looking forward to the rest of your posts!Alessahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16605755512224178329noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-86283100240942080302010-07-14T14:41:01.655-04:002010-07-14T14:41:01.655-04:00Hi! Thank you! I sew knits on my sewing machine, e...Hi! Thank you! I sew knits on my sewing machine, even tho I have a serger. I use a slight zigzag, but I'm going to try your wide zigzag suggestion and see how it looks!<br /><br />I have broad shoulders and find that clear elastic pulls up too much, leaving me with unsightly wrinkles on the garment. I looked in some of my Banana Republic RTW t'shirts and found that they stabilize with a 3/8" strip of self-fabric (i.e., same knit fabric as the garment) cut with the grain (i.e, the more stable direction). I've adopted this method, applying the strip in the same way that you describe using the clear elastic, and like the less aggressive effect.liannenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-51718964769250233482010-07-14T14:35:29.835-04:002010-07-14T14:35:29.835-04:00Very useful. I bet that as this series goes on (an...Very useful. I bet that as this series goes on (and I sure hope it does!) that I'll venture into knit sewing with brilliant results! Really great tips on choosing knit fabrics, especially for beginners!Tasiahttp://sewaholic.netnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-17784341326840014162010-07-14T14:31:13.517-04:002010-07-14T14:31:13.517-04:00first of all, thanks for this great series!
I have...first of all, thanks for this great series!<br />I have a serger but am still helpless about hemming my knits. Whatever I do (with the regular machine) makes the hem look stretched and a bit wavy. I would appreciate advice on hems. thanks!chrrristinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04506629494614909213noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-80703834819878650482010-07-14T14:25:13.844-04:002010-07-14T14:25:13.844-04:00Thank you, Alyson--extremely helpful!Thank you, Alyson--extremely helpful!Charlotte Holmeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09584389308420834826noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-9801734444181749982010-07-14T14:13:33.966-04:002010-07-14T14:13:33.966-04:00Glad you all are liking the post. If your machine ...Glad you all are liking the post. If your machine has mock-serger settings by all means use them. <br /><br />I have never tried the stretch and sew method myself. Also, knit fabric technology was way different in the 1970's. (I do LOVE heavy vintage knits for bottoms). <br /><br />The ruler came like that. I'm a pillager so most everything I own comes from thrift stores and estate sales. It's a yard stick and it set me back a quarter!<br /><br />I can do more on clear elastic applications, necklines can be very interesting subjects.Alyson Clairhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12165924077927247799noreply@blogger.com