tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post1801401693368212895..comments2024-03-14T16:03:32.434-04:00Comments on Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing: What's Your Muslin Strategy?Gertiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comBlogger76125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-65788765879501954812012-04-14T03:34:39.247-04:002012-04-14T03:34:39.247-04:00Until I discovered the Colette pattern website I d...Until I discovered the Colette pattern website I didn't know you could make alterations other than lengthen or shorten! When younger I more or less fitted the big 4 patterns but now at 53 and two children my body has given up the ghost, I am 4 stone heavier and with a size H bust so I was so so pleased to discover FBA!!!!! I am working my way through the patterns in the colette handbook and am finding that despite very careful measuring, I am still cutting out patterns way too big for me. I am on my second ever muslin and found it invaluable - my meringue fell off me and I had to cut out 2 sizes smaller, I have had to add more darts to the bodice of the Truffle and am going to have to take in all the seams. I would never had discovered this without a muslin. <br />In the UK fabric is very expensive, often it can cost 3 or 4 times as much to sew as to buy a garment. It is also harder to come by unless you order on line. Fabric shops are few and far between and can be 50 miles apart (No Joannes or Micheals on every corner LOL). What stores there are do not have large stocks. My nearest store only has 2 small shelves of fabric. <br />For my first muslin I used a cheap sheet from Ikea and for my Truffle I am using cotton polyester that was on sale as a remnant in my 'local' store (10 miles away). I shall probably keep making muslins as I am finding them a must As well as ending up with something I can now wear rather than something I spend hours on and then cant even get done up. I am also learning so much about construction along the way, but I shall continue to use thrifted sheets and try to make wearable muslins.Yizzhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12832930707428482317noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-88324944061430592662011-06-10T19:57:04.476-04:002011-06-10T19:57:04.476-04:00Wow... reading all these comments make me want to ...Wow... reading all these comments make me want to move to america to get cheaper fabric! Here in australia, muslin (or calico, as we call it) costs $6-7 a meter, at the absolute cheapest. Even fabric bought in the stores here is at a minimum, double what it costs to buy in america, so I've recently become a huge fan of buying online from the states. Even with postage, it ends up costing less than half... I'm a huge fan of making muslin's though, the larger pieces get kept for other muslin's and the rest gets donated for my Beau to clean his beloved racing bike :)poppykettlenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-26920434314269543912010-11-12T22:53:07.718-05:002010-11-12T22:53:07.718-05:00I "wear" my muslins. I paint in them or...I "wear" my muslins. I paint in them or use them to hang out with my parrots (who are mean green poop machines). When soiled, toss em.Carynhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17870436666815513446noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-41903744223734781302010-04-25T08:23:39.856-04:002010-04-25T08:23:39.856-04:00For the Australians, yes Muslin = Calico. (I'm...For the Australians, yes Muslin = Calico. (I'm a Kiwi so ditto).<br /><br />I don't think I have ever made a REAL Muslin, preferring to delve into my mass of stash and use something similar, cheaper and less loved if I am unsure of the pattern. After all that effort I would rather two dresses came out of it, even if one has more alterations than another. <br /><br />In fact some of them have turned out to be my most wearable outfits!In The Heydayhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06829316779390884087noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-7659080189380652282010-04-10T14:03:23.632-04:002010-04-10T14:03:23.632-04:00I often make a muslin. Usually out of muslin, whic...I often make a muslin. Usually out of muslin, which is called Nessel here in Germany. (3€/metre). I prefer it, because I can easily mark the best position of buttons or pockets with any pen. It's light so I can see any pleats or wrinkles that shouldn't be there.<br /><br />Sometimes I only make the fitted upper part of dresses or pants. Or I reuse the muslin to make other garnments based on the altered one. Til now, it alsways paid off.<br /><br />(Yes, my mother made my pants out of dyed bedsheets when I was little, but that doesn't mean, I can't enjoy the possibilities and common sense that are available today. She happily stopped sewing in 1990, when she just could walk into a shop and actually buy what she wanted. So much for the inhomogenity of european culture.)christinahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18084668122322535968noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-7828401845621175022010-04-10T04:32:51.256-04:002010-04-10T04:32:51.256-04:00I think your muslin is our calico (Australia and U...I think your muslin is our calico (Australia and UK).<br /><br />I've been reading Fit For Real People. That gives some insight into using a sloper to fit all subsequent patterns. But I've since read that the authors don't use that method any longer - they are behind some computer/scanning thing that you stand in and it makes an image of your body. Can't recall the name.<br />I've read other fitting gurus say not to use gingham - it's not 'true'.<br /><br />Arrrgh, fitting is my bug bear, especially since I put on weight, and am more curvy... sigh. Thinking of making a duct tape dummy. <br /><br />Would love for you to keep writing on fitting, Gertie!Jennynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-17974113778603005102010-04-08T17:33:55.877-04:002010-04-08T17:33:55.877-04:00A long time ago I made a fitting shell of gingham ...A long time ago I made a fitting shell of gingham but I couldn't make my fitting shell alterations coordinate with the patterns; the fitting ease is so different. That was many years ago and my figure has changed. <br /><br />I have a fitting shell pattern and toy with making it up again and seeing if my pattern alteration skills have advanced far enough, but I haven't yet. <br /><br />I find the cheap practice muslin to easy and I know that I am getting the wearing ease that goes with that particular style. <br /><br />I get my muslin from thrift stores and big sales at the clearance rack at fabric stores.sewistafashionistahttp://sewstorebought.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-34188026448460730142010-04-08T11:36:30.794-04:002010-04-08T11:36:30.794-04:00I gave up garment sewing for a long time due to th...I gave up garment sewing for a long time due to the frustration of making too many wadders. It seemed my body was changing size overnight. Now that that problem seems to have stablized (love that menpause, not)I'm back to sewing. But until I can get learn how the Big 4 patterns generally run, I'll be making muslins dang near everytime. I use sheets, real muslin or cheapo fabric most often, trying to match the hand of the fabric chosen for the final garment.<br /><br />I might try developing a sloper, though. It sounds as if it would save time, money, and wasted fabric.Barbarahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06119414203044028919noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-91785825777937060362010-04-08T08:22:01.750-04:002010-04-08T08:22:01.750-04:00Having ruined far too many pieces of beautiful fab...Having ruined far too many pieces of beautiful fabric in my early sewing days, I now almost always make a toile, from calico. (I'm Australian). I use the altered pieces the cut the fabric and keep for later if I like the pattern. The rejects go to my boyfriends rag pile, get used as cleaning cloths, pillow stuffingAlishesnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-85099857452958498192010-04-08T08:12:13.223-04:002010-04-08T08:12:13.223-04:00Hi there Gertie + friends!
I tend to make toiles ...Hi there Gertie + friends!<br /><br />I tend to make toiles from bedsheets and other second hand materials, as a test. Often my garments are so fabulous I just wear them as is. But I like these 'fitted shells' you guys all speak of, I might google some of those terms as well.<br /><br />I'm not a proper seamstress by any means, and hate wasting time and materials when I could be wearing the garment already. I'm usually pretty accurate with my own fit anyways.Veronica Darling...https://www.blogger.com/profile/16416973822037394912noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-73635368358388788022010-04-08T07:02:08.445-04:002010-04-08T07:02:08.445-04:00Good link, Sew Late! Sounds like I need calico to ...Good link, Sew Late! Sounds like I need calico to make a toile? Rather than muslin to make a muslin.Jodyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08730353815529442072noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-15681686602814120772010-04-08T00:41:12.756-04:002010-04-08T00:41:12.756-04:00I make some muslins. There are some patterns that...I make some muslins. There are some patterns that I just check against my TNT sheath pattern. Anything that is complicated or with many pieces that can't be taken in or let out, I make a muslin in the same way you do. I bought a pants and a dress fitting shell, but have yet to set the time aside to do the fitting. It's hard when you don't have someone to help you. I have a set of 'muslin zippers' that I reuse. They're all weird colours that I got cheap somewhere. I just rip them out and use them again.Carolhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11274649006496918800noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-7031627423226743672010-04-07T22:52:41.301-04:002010-04-07T22:52:41.301-04:00I almost never make a muslin (gasp!) If I'm no...I almost never make a muslin (gasp!) If I'm not sure of the pattern, I'll maybe consider a 'test dress' out of fabric I sort-of like. That way, if it works, I have a garment out of it, and if it doesn't, well, I didn't like the fabric much anyways.<br />Now that I'm starting to sew with vintage patterns, I'm going to start doing actual muslins. Especially if it's a style I want to make more than once. Plus, I want to be more patient and really get the fit right, instead of faking it once the dress is complete. <br />Muslin is $3.98/metre at my local fabric store, so it's not super cheap. I'm going to look online for a cheaper source, but then I'd have to factor in shipping, which gets expensive, especially to Canada.<br />The more blogs I read, the more I see the value in doing a muslin to perfect the fit, before cutting into fabric. So many of you are taking the time to get it right. I'm usually so impatient that I want to get started on the REAL THING right away!<br />Great post, really interesting to see what everyone else is doing out there :)Tasiahttp://sewaholic.netnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-75088402576509553912010-04-07T22:50:59.634-04:002010-04-07T22:50:59.634-04:00Nathalie, a sloper is a basic pattern that you can...Nathalie, a sloper is a basic pattern that you can alter as your heart desires. <br /><br />http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/basic-one-piece-dress-sloper<br /><br />Here is a skirt sloper and Burda also has a pant, bodice, and dress sloper for free.Ericahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10206864017373607038noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-19383411302909389362010-04-07T21:49:44.566-04:002010-04-07T21:49:44.566-04:00I usually make a "wearable" muslin in ch...I usually make a "wearable" muslin in cheap fabric, and most times I can get some use out of it. I'm pretty lucky because most of the time my only alteration is to make for a larger waist. I guess I'm pretty average otherwise.<br /><br />I am actually making a traditional muslin right now for the very first time, and was just wondering the other day what I am going to do with it when it's done. It does seem like such a waste.Rosehttp://thelaughingmonkey.com/blognoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-22666017748397432202010-04-07T20:33:55.627-04:002010-04-07T20:33:55.627-04:00I go to garage sales and buy fabric by the 'bu...I go to garage sales and buy fabric by the 'bunch', then iron it and store it ready to use as 'muslin' for a similar weight fashion fabric. <br /><br />I am a relatively new sewer, so making a muslin helps me both with the fit and the techniques. I keep good notes so when I make the actual pattern I have a good handle on all the steps and techniques.JBJ2110noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-86497340294419128592010-04-07T20:15:44.229-04:002010-04-07T20:15:44.229-04:00Yeah my take on muslins has changed a bit too but ...Yeah my take on muslins has changed a bit too but I still do all sorts of different things in trying to figure all of this out. Depends totally on my investment in the project, and the cut of the thing though. A couple weekends ago I just wanted to SEW SOMETHING in a weekend, had some cheap fabric from my for-muslining stash from the 50%-off-everything local fabric warehouse (I stock up on the cheap syntho stuff in different weights/weaves for muslining) that I decided I liked enough for "real clothes" and whipped up a great little 40s dress that I turn out to love to pieces even though I just eyeballed & chalked up some alterations. (OK admittedly not form-fitting, no set-in sleeves, plenty of forgiving gathering, it wasn't too much of a risk) It seems to work that way though, if you don't really care about the project things can magically, dumb-luckily go swimmingly, and the thing you really want to work out, you still can't get the fit right several muslins in. <br /><br />I admit though that for something I'm really committed to making live up to the idea in my head, I still sometimes do a "first draft"- ie. wearable muslin- after I think I'm satisfied with fit of the regular muslin-- a completely finished item but in fabric I don't care one way or the other about, to help me work through both construction and the trickier fit issues that aren't necessarily apparent to me without extended wear. Hopefully in time with greater experience I won't need to do that anymore. But still feels safer to me on those rare projects where I really, really care about doing my best before cutting into the real fabric. Really, it's just training wheels. <br /><br />Anyway, I figure I'm somewhere in early middle school in my seamstress development here, but I learn every week from all the blogs and commenters on how they fit things- I really value posts like this one and everything everyone has to say!Hillaryhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01324854929065302634noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-73701542701830283882010-04-07T17:51:52.251-04:002010-04-07T17:51:52.251-04:00There are a few factors I consider before making a...There are a few factors I consider before making a muslin - or as we more commonly refer to them in the southern hemisphere a toile.<br /><br />*The cost or rarity of the fabric I am making the finished garment in, if it is vintage, or expensive I am more likely to do a toile<br /><br />*The pattern company/brand, some companies make garments that just work with my body shape and require very little adjustment, some, like Vogue, generally require so much adjusting I wonder why I didn't just draft it myself<br /><br />*The purpose of the garment, if it is a seasonal piece that I will likely be handing on to someone else next season I am less inclined to bother<br /><br />Similarly if the fabric I am using is inexpensive. What you refer to as muslin we call calico here, and it is generally about $10 a metre, which can be about the same as what you are paying for the fabric itself.<br /><br />I tend to wait until the large fabric stores have a sale, and stock up on fabric then to use for toiles, at that time I can usually get some for $2-$5 a metre. It is the only time I shop there really as their service is terrible.<br /><br />I do always try to use a similar weight, drape etc though, as this can make a huge difference to the completed style.Brumbyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04971989256577832523noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-14144338040847990222010-04-07T17:00:09.648-04:002010-04-07T17:00:09.648-04:00A) Muslins save me time and money, so I'll alw...A) Muslins save me time and money, so I'll always make one when using expensive fabric or trying a new style.<br /><br />B) The student bookstore/sewing notions place across from the FIT bookstore sells packs of muslin in three different "grades" and is very reasonable, cheaper than AK. SIL Thread sells different grades, as does Greenberg & Hammer, but they're pricier.Meghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16245730088359572839noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-87478984662637719152010-04-07T16:48:32.379-04:002010-04-07T16:48:32.379-04:00I have never made a muslin. I always tissue fit. I...I have never made a muslin. I always tissue fit. I have many alterations to make with every pattern but it seems to work. I keep intending to make a sloper but generally just use patterns I have already adjusted to help me with fit. I too am in Australia and yes muslin is called calico here and if you ask for muslin you get cheesecloth. I don't know how much it is but it costs more than $3 a metre.Vickinoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-57476442930043523522010-04-07T15:25:43.058-04:002010-04-07T15:25:43.058-04:00I make a muslin if I'm unsure or want to chang...I make a muslin if I'm unsure or want to change things, or cutting into precious fabric, but I'm lucky to be a fairly standard size so often just run with the pattern. <br />I'd never make a muslin wearable - I use minimal cloth - no facings, only cutting seam allowances for seams I will sew, leaving all other edges raw and fusetaped to stop them stretching. This way you can often have it cut and made in under 1/2 hour. I almost always insert a zip - I think it is more accurate. <br />I usually make my own patterns on kraft paper, and transfer all alterations to the pattern. I know it is traditional to cut from the muslin, but I have slight accuracy issues with this. Muslin is flexible and moves on the bias, kraft paper isn't - you just lay it down and it is the right shape - easy!<br />Here in New Zealand we call the cloth calico, and you sew it into a toile or a calico or a mock-up depending on where you were trained!Sheryllhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17460472835794108787noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-41841126349431248082010-04-07T14:35:35.014-04:002010-04-07T14:35:35.014-04:00I can get muslin for as cheap as $.97 a yard. If I...I can get muslin for as cheap as $.97 a yard. If I can't get it that cheap I won't buy it. And I usually only buy a special muslin fabric if the finished product is going to be done in an expensive or hard to handle fabric.S.L.Phttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07449495288357078369noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-77360101209660897782010-04-07T13:59:01.294-04:002010-04-07T13:59:01.294-04:00I keep reading about slopers... What is a sloper a...I keep reading about slopers... What is a sloper and how does one go about making one? I did a quick google, but I can't say it enlightened me hugely!Nathaliehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11570545194570856281noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-76603665948489788902010-04-07T13:57:04.512-04:002010-04-07T13:57:04.512-04:00I need to make muslins. I have so many alterations...I need to make muslins. I have so many alterations to do on patterns, that I'm just not comfortable with cutting large seam allowances and going for it!<br /><br />I think what I need is a real body block. The one I have now works wonderfully, should I care to design my own blouses, but it looks super wonky, and I can't use it to base pattern adjustments on.dotted lineshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12833251316062787618noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-24496303816669949152010-04-07T13:54:35.308-04:002010-04-07T13:54:35.308-04:00I always make a muslin and I save the finished mus...I always make a muslin and I save the finished muslin for future use. I also have a sloper which I can use for sizing a pattern. I like vintage patterns with unusual details and I really need a muslin to determine if those details work on my body (I'm tall, slender, no bust and there's a lot that looks downright hideous on my frame). I use the muslins for Franken-patterning, designing embellishments, etc. and the losers I cut apart and reuse for other patterns, backing for embroidery on lightweight fabrics, or for sew-in interfacing. I purchase muslin by the bolt mail order from Dharma Trading Company. I don't make dozens each year because I do make multiples of successful styles. The cost of the muslin is waaaaaay less than the expense of my past failures at adjusting while I cut and sew.<br /><br />PaulaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com