tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post170960396215066377..comments2024-03-14T16:03:32.434-04:00Comments on Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing: Guest Post: Secrets of a Sample MakerGertiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comBlogger101125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-31766233128296271032012-02-29T06:57:50.214-05:002012-02-29T06:57:50.214-05:00Thank you for sharing such a nice information.Thank you for sharing such a nice information.中古車買取http://www.pmgt.co.jp/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-8934289631256577732011-08-21T12:37:59.481-04:002011-08-21T12:37:59.481-04:00Chrissy:
When you sew the shirt collar, you must t...Chrissy:<br />When you sew the shirt collar, you must trim the seam allowances down everywhere before turning. Also, you must topstitch or understitch (which I prefer) the collar base to get that smooth, flat finish. Using a point turner can help get nice, crisp points and corners. :)Ouisynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-43152701566641078652011-08-21T12:35:37.868-04:002011-08-21T12:35:37.868-04:00When I worked as a seamstress for Disney, I was to...When I worked as a seamstress for Disney, I was told to use a straight, regular ol' razor blade to do my seam ripping. This made everything SO much faster! I even use it at home now, instead of a seam ripper.Ouisynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-89432070288817383642011-08-18T17:36:30.939-04:002011-08-18T17:36:30.939-04:00Hello Jonathan! How are shirt collars sewn on indu...Hello Jonathan! How are shirt collars sewn on industrial-made shirts? I am having a hard time explaining my problem, but here is a try:<br />When I attach the collar to the actual shirt, the very front spots, where the center front is, get incredibly bulky. When I take a look at store bought shirts, that spot looks very smooth and not bulky at all. I tried grading the seams but I never get an acceptable result. Since it gets to bulky, I ruin the topmost buttonhole!Chrissynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-28424885267265090842011-08-18T04:13:12.859-04:002011-08-18T04:13:12.859-04:00The actual reason for a 5/8" seam allowance i...The actual reason for a 5/8" seam allowance is for French Seaming, which is the "gold standard" for hand made garments. The idea of using a lightweight fusible, isn't new to me but still makes me think of many new possibilities. TY!StrangePuppyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10542163297397751045noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-87848374143405935752011-08-17T13:56:39.585-04:002011-08-17T13:56:39.585-04:00thanks so much for this post!!
life savers honestl...thanks so much for this post!!<br />life savers honestly I've been sewing 120 chair covers for weeks. I can get around 6 to 10 covers a day with pining.... but on monday after reading this post I decided to try the no pinning approach, result!! 17 chair covers done in one day and now I've finished them all (literally cut my time in half) thank you sooooo much xSarahhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09796254211159293271noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-36380390700709042962011-08-08T15:55:14.598-04:002011-08-08T15:55:14.598-04:00This is the best sewing advice I have read in...fo...This is the best sewing advice I have read in...forever! My current project is turning out extremely well thanks to taking the seam allowances down to 1/4 inch! I have never had my garment pieces line up so well. Thanks so much. I still need a little more explanation on using interfacing in backs and busts! maybe another guest post?sweetsalnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-91954192504885771422011-07-28T13:40:14.850-04:002011-07-28T13:40:14.850-04:00Just a note to @Relished Artistry, I think when do...Just a note to @Relished Artistry, I think when doing vintage inspired designs we can use combinations of techniques. There's always a moment where you'll say "I could do this easier by hand" and so you should. I've done quite a few costumes too and it really depends on what it's for, don't you think? I mean a stage costume being seen from 20 feet away isn't going to be the same as a reproduction costume for a reinactor. <br />Just a thought.Kiki vonTikihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09534661181727479388noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-3224163856479765302011-07-28T13:25:00.405-04:002011-07-28T13:25:00.405-04:00I've been sewing since I was a little girl and...I've been sewing since I was a little girl and was taught by my tailor grandmother. So I've never really overused pins and always loved what a good selection of interfacing can do. <br /><br />If you readers want tutorials or videos please check out the brillant Margaret Islander (may she rest in peace) series - she was teaching factory sewing methods to home sewers many years ago. You can buy them on Amazon.com or possibly ebay, or rent them on smartflix.com. Also check out the Fashion Incubator blog by Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/blog/ for information and training in commercial style sewing. <br /><br />If you want to sew couture, that's a whole different story, but I always want to get it done and wear it as quickly as I can while still getting a quality garment! :)Kiki vonTikihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09534661181727479388noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-79532989930691645312011-07-27T02:55:23.908-04:002011-07-27T02:55:23.908-04:00Careful when leaping straight to pin freedom. Whe...Careful when leaping straight to pin freedom. When I did that, without first learning how to not pull at the fabric, my seams rippled all over the place! (But I don't pull at the fabric! Oh yes I did. . .I had to un-learn years of subtle pulling to counter the bad effects of the pins!) Seriously, scrap fabric first, or something you can stick in the guest room once you notice the ripply seams.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-26801403893298920012011-07-26T21:23:46.617-04:002011-07-26T21:23:46.617-04:00Anyone interested in learning production sewing &a...Anyone interested in learning production sewing & pattern practices really needs to visit http://www.fashion-incubator.com. Seriously! Check out the blog archives. Kathleen Fasanella knows what she's talking about, and many of the people who hang around her site are industry professionals as well.<br /><br />Her "Tutorials" tab is amazing, especially the zipper tutorials. Oh, and the jacket bagging tutorial - incredible. Most of her stuff is fairly technical, but it's a great way to learn. I spent a year reading each and every one of her blog posts, bought her book, and am STILL reading through all of the member forum posts (a bonus with the book!)Jess H.http://www.rockinbclothing.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-73149374234468854612011-07-26T18:22:03.702-04:002011-07-26T18:22:03.702-04:00I am liberating myself from pins starting, NOW.......I am liberating myself from pins starting, NOW....I hate pinning but I have always felt I had to do it. It's like I have been indoctrinated, but I'm not sure by who. I try to pin as little as possible when cutting out pattern pieces as that totally distorts the shape but with construction I've just gone along with the perceived status quo, no more I say. I would love to see a post on interfacing. There are sooo many different types, weights, etc.. I wish I knew which to use for which application and fabric type instead of just winging it all the time.Sewly a Harpisthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05050121729422658386noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-49633248572632621822011-07-26T17:01:22.804-04:002011-07-26T17:01:22.804-04:00Oh, I really like this "tough love" appr...Oh, I really like this "tough love" approach to sewing! I'd love to see some of these techniques demonstrated.Cliohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05552253628640209694noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-69990355231901638102011-07-26T12:12:29.468-04:002011-07-26T12:12:29.468-04:00Wow. This is such great information. If you can, ...Wow. This is such great information. If you can, please post again Jonathan and thank you for the great thoughts and inspiration!<br />-AlexandraAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-24896525336376709872011-07-25T18:35:08.185-04:002011-07-25T18:35:08.185-04:00please. post. MORE.please. post. MORE.marcy harriell | oonaballoonahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07586073125331744719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-10428029318514389332011-07-25T14:06:59.302-04:002011-07-25T14:06:59.302-04:00Yay to no pins! I never pin my clothing when I'...Yay to no pins! I never pin my clothing when I'm sewing, and until now, I've just been embarrassed that I'm so lazy. But now, I have justification mwah ha ha!9patchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10794203170550373479noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-32994448206007081062011-07-24T14:59:42.412-04:002011-07-24T14:59:42.412-04:00luluxo:
As I understand it, the SA matters for tw...luluxo:<br /><br />As I understand it, the SA matters for two things: <br /><br />1) The protect the integrity of the garment, that is, providing some leeway so if the seam is ripped the garment won't fall apart and possibly can be sewn back again; <br /><br />and<br /><br />2) To permit future alterations if the wearer gains weight.<br /><br />If you're doing muslins, you can make the final SAs whatever width you want, depending on what your plans are and your need to reduce bulk or save fabric. Curved areas tend to have narrower SAs to make them easier to sew and clip and to accommodate things like bindings and facings.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-47274218546949604922011-07-24T11:44:43.559-04:002011-07-24T11:44:43.559-04:00i love all of this advice... you freed me from so ...i love all of this advice... you freed me from so many things that really annoy me, thanks! i'm a little confused about making a different seam allowance than called for, i'll have to get better at making muslins so the fit is just right!luluxohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06427793099286414870noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-14827472596429570022011-07-24T08:43:12.198-04:002011-07-24T08:43:12.198-04:00Solange:
I find the world of production sewing fa...Solange:<br /><br />I find the world of production sewing fascinating as well. But let's not forget Jonathan's allusion to the many specialized machines to which a sample maker has access. I'm sure he and other sample makers at times outsource certain tasks to specialists. It's more cost-effective, and the job will be done better.<br /><br />I'm not a snob about processes. Time is short and I'm willing to do whatever gets the job done well. But in part because my equipment and workspace are limited and I'm not mass producing clothes, I find the bench tailor/couturier/ière model a little more applicable.<br /><br />Many aspects of custom clothes can't be duplicated in RTW because of the cost. A lot of the hand work isn't done out of a sense of snobbery but because it affords more control in the construction process and a more subtle effect than one could get from a machine.<br /><br />But I'm always happy to learn from any valuable source. For example, I like to use rotary cutters for certain tasks, although I don't think most traditional tailors use them. I assume rotary cutters were adapted from the cutting machines used in RTW. Again, production sewers use the cutting line, not the sewing line as the guide, so the cut edge has to be perfect.atelierflounoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-3033293760296116302011-07-24T01:22:09.013-04:002011-07-24T01:22:09.013-04:00I wish I knew more about these factory techniques....I wish I knew more about these factory techniques. It would be nice to have more knowledge, which would equal more choices, depending on fabric, etc.Solangehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11602452519397717693noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-48831268235575745012011-07-23T22:18:57.393-04:002011-07-23T22:18:57.393-04:00Ah! A man after my own heart!
Home sewing and com...Ah! A man after my own heart!<br /><br />Home sewing and commercial sewing are worlds apart. There are things I see sewing bloggers doing and I think 'why! There is a faster and easier way!' But I have also learnt and incorperated many tips and tricks of the home sewing world to my industry sewing world.<br /><br />I sew because I love it and it is nice to know there are other industry workers who feel the same.ShimmyAlleynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-1559678123385359332011-07-23T21:43:36.098-04:002011-07-23T21:43:36.098-04:00Jonathan:
Thanks for taking the time to answer my...Jonathan:<br /><br />Thanks for taking the time to answer my numerous questions. I figured you had great experience, although I didn't realize you were a mere "chiyald." <br />:-)<br /><br />I did get the joke about the presser foot position.<br /><br /><br />Trudy Callan:<br /><br />After I posted, I thought, Why didn't I tell her to simply subtract 1/4" from the cutting line to get the 3/8", as the other commenter said? I use a clear ruler to mark the sewing line, but if you have a tape measure that is the exact width of the distance you need to mark you can lay that along the pattern cutting lines.atelierflounoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-14606599169069636242011-07-23T21:06:44.698-04:002011-07-23T21:06:44.698-04:00I very much enjoyed your sewing tips! Thanks, Jona...I very much enjoyed your sewing tips! Thanks, Jonathan.<br />I had already learned about using pattern weights when cutting fabric, but I particularly liked your description of feeding fabric through the machine. I must practice that.Solangehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11602452519397717693noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-438768161455436392011-07-23T20:36:08.164-04:002011-07-23T20:36:08.164-04:00Perhaps I've worked in the wrong industry to g...Perhaps I've worked in the wrong industry to get the most out of Jonathan's advice, but my experience in the costuming industry doesn't lend itself to a lot of manufacturing techniques... <br /><br />I understand it's comparing apples and oranges (essentially) and yes there are indeed a lot of manufacturing methods that could lend themselves to effective home sewing approaches, but aren't these techniques sorta limited to more contemporary garments? With the trend of building retro and historically-inspired clothing growing more and more common, and the interest in period construction techniques, and sewing skills increasing to more and more complicated garments (as more and more people desire to learn how to sew)? <br /><br />I guess I'm struggling to figure out how to apply these methods to my own experience... Do we run the risk of losing, in the long run, the capability of assembling more complicated garments in favor of easier construction techniques?<br /><br />I'm not trying to criticize AT ALL, and I certainly don't mean to offend ANYone. I'm just curious... At what point does ease of assembly guide design? And is that even something that needs to be considered?Relishedartistryhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14881073245584539523noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-91999589011520146512011-07-23T19:43:40.474-04:002011-07-23T19:43:40.474-04:00A delightful post! Gertie, I'm so glad you had...A delightful post! Gertie, I'm so glad you had your work-husband let us in on the secrets of the trade. I am not a huge fan of pins myself. I will admit, I felt pretty lazy recently when I made my Crepe dress-- I used small strips of fusible interfacing to stay the sweetheart neckline. I was thinking it would work OK, but didn't know I had stumbled upon a trade secret! Truth is, it is the very nicest, most smooth and crisp neckline I've ever sewn. So try it, sewists! Would love to hear more from you, Jonathan.Jennhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10517649568887540126noreply@blogger.com