tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post1035675747446343577..comments2024-03-14T16:03:32.434-04:00Comments on Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing: Vintage Sewing: the Anti-H&M?Gertiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04314542159287533507noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-55104470796024017802013-08-02T14:38:00.019-04:002013-08-02T14:38:00.019-04:00There are so many interesting comments here ! I st...There are so many interesting comments here ! I started sewing my own clothes again a couple of years ago; primarily because I was disabled and needed something creative and challanging to do with my time. But what happened was that I started to notice how badly things were made that came from Target, H&M, etc.Plus, I like to wear natural fabrics, and they were not to be found at the discount stores !I started out slowly, and have now really weaned my self off of my Target addiction completely. I do with fewer clothes, which I think everyone could easily do if they learned to be creative. I also shop at Consignment stores and Thrift shops and look for quality clothing. I think that once you start sewing for yourself, you beginn to look at the cheap mass produced clothing out there very differently !tianne, the sisterhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03465245770153033061noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-77014068972783016422013-02-17T09:52:22.291-05:002013-02-17T09:52:22.291-05:00My nana, who was a fashion plate herself back in t...My nana, who was a fashion plate herself back in the day, and of whom I have pictures wearing those "vintage" clothes from the left column of your blog, was never one to buck to fads or trends. She knew, indelibly, these things: 1) Coral was the color in which she positively shined, so she favored it over any current new black, 2) Pencil skirts hugged her figure so lovingly and generously that it would be like cheating to wear anything else, and 3) You have to be comfortable in your clothes or you'll never look good in them. Those were the tenets of her fashion sense; she rarely strayed, which is why she was always exemplarily dressed. I just realized the other day, while inside one of their stores, that I HATE H&M. The clothes they sold used to be silly cheap, so that you could feel somewhat ok about buying a 10-minute trend because it could be tossed away like a plastic pink razor, but now they're just as expensive as some quality-made garments! It's a total rip-off, and the clothes aren't even cute! I am now learning to sew because I'm tired of having to settle for what the industry offers! (PS Thanks for all your tips and tricks--they're really helpful! :)smaili beehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15621325946247913388noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-11037840405118632332012-11-25T12:20:46.819-05:002012-11-25T12:20:46.819-05:00Although I do like the quirky style of H&M (UK...Although I do like the quirky style of H&M (UK) fashion, I have to agree with the fact everything is becoming so bland, same-ish and five-minute-wonders. The problem with they way everything has been mass-produced for customers is just simply wrong - we keep on complaining that we have to be individual and unique, but how can we when we're buying the same clothes as everyone else? What happened to one-off pieces designed to fit us perfectly? It makes me sad and angry that there is a huge percentage of people in the world that have lost touch with the art of craft. Sewing is dying - WE NEED TO REVIVE IT.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11846614883469370301noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-48005660839305309242009-10-23T19:45:10.734-04:002009-10-23T19:45:10.734-04:00I think there are two major problems with "ch...I think there are two major problems with "cheap" clothes from chains like H&M and Zara. Both have to do with the fact that they're too cheap (not in all countries but many).<br />The first is the labour-wages, I'd rather pay a little more and know that the person who made the clothes got a proper paycheck and had fair or even good working conditions. <br />The other is that since they're so cheap that most (or many)of us can afford to buy them without considering whether we A. really want them and B. really need them. SO we just buy new, without consideration. <br />I've bought loads of clothes at H&M, some of them are my most treasured and used and other I've just used once or twice.<br />I've tried to make myself think more carefully before buying new clothes, no matter if they're cheap or not, to make sure I buy only things that I will use, but I don't think I'll stop shopping at H&M (although I've reduced the amount drastically since I took up sewing again. But then, I buy fabrics instead now...). <br />Btw, this is a really interesting discussion!Karinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06491845092977999733noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-38448677541280971722009-10-20T21:31:03.491-04:002009-10-20T21:31:03.491-04:00I think there can be some benefits to fast fashion...I think there can be some benefits to fast fashion stores. As much as I like to sew, sewing my own clothing is very expensive and I can't always afford it when I need it. Normally, if I don't have the money for something I'll do without but that isn't always possible. One example, I went to high school in Thailand, so when I moved to the U.S for college the warmest items in my closet were a light cardigan and one pair of jeans. Obviously that's not enough to last through the winter in. However, because I moved right before school started it was August, and I couldn't make it through the winter to wait for the coats at nice stores to start going on sale. And I don't have the sewing skills, or the fabric money to make myself a coat. But I found a comfy warm wool coat at H&M for $40 at the start of winter, and so I bought it. And it wasn't a throwaway item, I still have it two years later and it looks just as nice as when I bought it. I also sometimes go to those stores, because, as many people have mentioned, sewing your own clothing is expensive. I also don't have much time or space to do it in a dorm room and there are no thrift stores within biking distance of where I live (there is one goodwill, but the smallest sizes are usually 12s and I wear a 4). So I go to the mall, but what I need, but I make sure to examine it closely to make sure it is in good condition so I'm not wasting the money.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-68594292442938004912009-09-17T15:28:18.612-04:002009-09-17T15:28:18.612-04:00My grandmother used to show me the insides of her ...My grandmother used to show me the insides of her clothes and say it should look as good as the outside. My handmade clothing can, but for the fast fashion chains, that's not any where near what it's about. My clothing is about quality and fit, something, as Michelle said, I can't possibly afford at my income level unless I make it myself. I am not saving money if you compare what I spend to the chain store clothing, but if you compare it to high end rtw, I am spending a whole lot less for a garment of even better quality.Nancy Khttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-16117746267524348282009-09-17T11:24:37.363-04:002009-09-17T11:24:37.363-04:00I notice that a lot of people have mentioned how s...I notice that a lot of people have mentioned how sewing their own clothes has made them look at ready-to-wear differently. Like me, many still do buy ready-made clothes from stores in all different price ranges, but we all seem to look at clothes more carefully as a result of our sewing. I certainly find that being able to make my own clothes makes me look carefully at the ones available in stores and ask myself something along the lines of: do I love this enough to make one myself? And if I did, would it cost less/look better? And sometimes it's yes to the first and no to the second and then I buy it - it can be cheaper to buy ready-made! But even when I do, I think I cherish the garments more because I have a better understanding of just what it *means* to make an item of clothing. When you make something yourself it's not just any old thing that will protect your pathetic homo sapiens hide from the elements: it's something you really want; that you've thought about; that you've carefully planned and even more carefully made; that has taken time and effort and skill. And after a while I think, your attitude to all clothing changes as a result of this process. I wonder, for example, if home sewists are more likely to take clothes to charity shops (thrift stores) or to clothes recycling banks rather than throwing them in the bin? And if their greater willingness to repair/refashion garments is not just a result of having the necessary skills, but of an attitude that these things deserve a bit more care and attention?Hannanoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-8256124584329933122009-09-17T10:01:24.612-04:002009-09-17T10:01:24.612-04:00This is kind of a long comment - I apologize!
I s...This is kind of a long comment - I apologize!<br /><br />I started sewing with vintage patterns 10 years ago because I've always loved fashions from the 1960s and 1970s. I realized that sewing with these patterns was the most practical and affordable way for me to make/re-create that perfect mod a-line dress or high-waist bellbottoms that I longed for, specifically in my own size. Like you, I would much rather spend my money on vintage sewing patterns and fabric than purchase new, trendy clothing (although I do *try* to avoid mass fabric retailers like Jo-Ann because they too contribute to our disposable culture by importing cheap made-in-China fabrics and seasonal junk). <br /><br />I have never shopped in an H&M, and I rarely ever go to the mall (only to buy staples that I don't make - like undergarments, tights and socks). The last time I did go to the mall, I ventured into a Charlotte Russe store and was shocked at how cheaply made and inexpensive everything was. Any other clothing that I purchase comes directly from thrift stores which - surprise - are now overflowing with last season's disposable trendy garments from Target/H&M/Charlotte Russe/Forever 21, etc. - UGH!<br /><br />I am still fascinated whenever I find a vintage garment from the 1950s or 1960s in a thrift store that still has it's original designer label attached - usually the label/design will be from a smaller local/regional designer and, of course, they were made in the United States. And, if worn today, these 50 year old garments would STILL outlast anything that comes from Target!<br /><br />Unfortunately, I believe there is no turning back from this disposable trendiness in our culture. Too many consumers want their clothing cheap and don't care where it comes from or how it's made or about the consequences that result from that. I didn't start sewing with vintage patterns as a recation against modern retail practices, but I'm happy that I have the skills to make unique clothing that I can feel proud to wear.Miss Dandyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13977302648973118805noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-43019474799165577012009-09-17T07:38:33.881-04:002009-09-17T07:38:33.881-04:00I'm willing to spend money on clothing that wi...I'm willing to spend money on clothing that will last a bit longer and while I have bought items at H&M that have lasted (a pair of linen trousers that I've had for 9 years!)I find that a lot of clothing I have bought retail (regardless of price) has fallen apart rather quickly.<br /><br />I have a similar concern though about sewing--looking at the range in price of fabric, aren't we perpetuating the same working conditions and "fast/disposable fashion" when we use impossibly cheap fabrics in our sewing?Knitosaurushttp://knitosaurusrex.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-64444191971955692492009-09-17T04:48:19.278-04:002009-09-17T04:48:19.278-04:00I'm not a fan of the stores because for the mo...I'm not a fan of the stores because for the most part, I'm not attracted to the styles they're offering.<br /><br />But with regard to the point that the are harmful because they pay the seamstresses less than a living wage:<br /><br />I have no idea where H&M garments are produced, or under what conditions. But generally, over the past few years, I have altered my thinking a bit with regard to clothing that is produced in poor countries for wages that are less than what we in the US would call livable.<br /><br />When I was in college, my roommate from Bangladesh told me about the garment factories in her country. She told me that although they pay low wages, the wages are much, much higher than those otherwise available to those workers. She shared with me her bitter frustration that when those factories are forced to close because of the good will of protesting Americans, the people are much worse off than before. Of course there are better humanitarian options, such as providing skills training. But for those who at this time don't have lucrative skills, these factories can change lives for better.Kate in Belgradenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-79097384436877574182009-09-17T00:27:30.005-04:002009-09-17T00:27:30.005-04:00I sew because I love beautiful clothes and I refus...I sew because I love beautiful clothes and I refuse to pay for clothes that I can make just like the high-end shops do!<br /><br />I make the same type clothing for my children. <br /><br />I do shop carefully - weighing both my time and cost with the cost and such of the clothing item I might buy (it is much easier just to buy blue jeans though for my teens!).<br /><br />I also sew because I can make the clothes a bit more modest (you know with cap sleeves, a slighter higher neckline, no booty showing when I bend over in my trousers). <br /><br />I also sew because I have a classic hourglass figure - and do you know how bad hip pants look on me? Or the lose fitting peasant tops? (I look pregnant and I am done with that, thank you.)<br /><br />I guess I have become a clothes snob - I prefer beautiful, well made and fitted clothes. So if I have to sew to get it for me and my family...so be it!Lady Jennhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01312855623134541689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-29047130456309838432009-09-16T21:59:07.482-04:002009-09-16T21:59:07.482-04:00I agree. I also am the demographic the stores are...I agree. I also am the demographic the stores are targeting and every time I step foot in the mall I'm disgusted. I'm fascinated by fashion, but really fed up with the trend that production has left the US, and the American mindset that more is more, regardless of quality. <br />I love sewing vintage because it's a creative outlet, I can make something of better quality that will last and is exactly my size, regardless of whether or not it actually is cheaper than someplace it could be purchased. I used to love going in to stores like Anthropologie for inspiration, but these days when I get close up enough to look at how it was made in comparison to the price being asked, I generally leave frustrated and more determined to find my clothing vintage or make my own.<br />I have very much enjoyed this post. Thank you for raising such an interesting topic.Laurenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16474033571158410724noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-81062935043758486182009-09-16T20:40:32.889-04:002009-09-16T20:40:32.889-04:00I absolutely agree that, as a society we've tr...I absolutely agree that, as a society we've traded in quality for disposable trendiness in apparel. Consumers as a whole are less picky & less educated: understanding of fitting garments in particular has really decreased, and the higher-end retailers learned quickly from the fast-fashioneers that consumers now have a really high tolerance for really poor quality fabrics in particular, but also workmanship. It is amazing: the quality that you used to find limited to Target-type apparel can now be found in high-end department stores. I'm not saying you can't find absolute gems from time to time at all price points, and I'm as big a sucker as anyone for cheap shiny baubles! I'm just saying that overall manufacturers have got our culture's number as a whole in terms of demand for quality: there just isn't much. <br /><br />I think it's quite tied to not just baggy T-shirt & cargoes fashion, but the decline of home sewing. With sewing comes a better understanding of fit. As it is, with this I'm really only at the level of being vaguely aware of how much I *don't* know about fit. I can still send my mother into paroxysms of horror at the fit of some outfits I think look really smart. But then she was raised either sewing herself or having her mother sew almost everything for her, carefully tailored to all her measurements-- so her eye is really well-trained in ways mine is not. <br /><br />But I also agree that a desire for higher-quality items definitely drives my sewing. Now that I'm paying off grad school loans, I couldn't ever afford to buy the kinds of things I'm making with the quality of fabrics I'm using, even if I could find them.Hillarynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-75942018366959642992009-09-16T19:38:39.824-04:002009-09-16T19:38:39.824-04:00I can't say that for me, sewing is a complete ...I can't say that for me, sewing is a complete reaction against disposable fashion... my mom taught me to sew when I was a kid (which was kind of weird in the 80s), so I've basically grown up doing it. But that has become more of a consideration for me since my college days. I did several rounds at the Wardrobe Refashion blog (I'm off the pledge right now, but mainly because most of my work pants bit the dust at once and I just don't have the fitting know-how yet to make pants work well... will be taking some online sewing classes soon that will hopefully help with that!) and have become much more aware of the environmental and social impact of where my clothes come from as a result. Fit and modesty are also big factors for me, especially given that I work with kids (including teaching a band of predominantly middle school boys) and have to be careful about my shirts being too low-cut or whatever. I can definitely see how vintage sewing in particular could play into that, though (other than a few 70's patterns I stitched up as a teenager) it's not something I've dabbled in much myself.Beckyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09913795373618902575noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-42683049269276842792009-09-16T19:11:01.471-04:002009-09-16T19:11:01.471-04:00I love both!!! I have many many items from F21 th...I love both!!! I have many many items from F21 that I have customized. Some have been a wardrobe staple for over 2 yrs now. I think that if you have a good eye and some imagination then you can use this to your advantage. I love the idea of fast fashion AND classic vintage looks all rolled into one, otherwise I would just get bored!Saranoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-84729704948296060892009-09-16T17:34:58.631-04:002009-09-16T17:34:58.631-04:00I still have to restrain myself from buying fast f...I still have to restrain myself from buying fast fashion when it's discounted under $10, but I try to remind myself of that last pieces I loved that I had to get rid of because of cheap construction, and too often I can spot the flaws while still in the store. More and more, time spent shopping equals time not sewing, although the garments I make haven't reached the height of perfection because I still want a quantity of clothes and don't have the patience.mjbhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07270657379178402124noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-15232874569148561762009-09-16T17:26:33.704-04:002009-09-16T17:26:33.704-04:00Christine, I had never thought of it in terms of c...Christine, I had never thought of it in terms of cost per wear, and you are exactly right. In the end, it is much less to make a high quality, if more expensive garment that will be worn for years as opposed to replacing the same shirt 3 times in a year. Thank you!Michellehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04873478695914665795noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-43956407540639133532009-09-16T15:57:25.737-04:002009-09-16T15:57:25.737-04:00Hi Gertie,
The reason I'm so drawn to sewing ...Hi Gertie,<br /><br />The reason I'm so drawn to sewing and vintage fashion isn't a reaction to "Raunch Culture" and it isn't a reaction to the shoddy workmanship and materials utilized by the chain stores. My reason for sewing and for adoring vintage fashion is because it allows me to live in a simpler way. <br /><br />My small closet isn't full to bursting and my budget isn't blown every time I go shopping. I choose to sew rather than watch TV and I choose to read vintage Forties and Fifties magazines for inspiration rather than spend time reading about Brad and Angelina's latest baby-making escapades. <br /><br />Am I inspired by the simplicity of earlier eras? Of course. Would I rather have lived then? I don't think so. WWII, pre-feminist housewifery and myriad other reasons make me happy that I'm alive in the second millenium. But, the little part of me that wishes to have lived before Peak Oil, internet psychopaths and Genetically Modified Organisms is more than happy to go down to my sewing room and pretend, for an afternoon, that children walk home alone after dark in my neighbourhood and that my local fabric store still exists.Ellehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08993405463165749178noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-17171511944931075202009-09-16T15:45:32.792-04:002009-09-16T15:45:32.792-04:00I think with a good eye, you can take advantage of...I think with a good eye, you can take advantage of items from lower price point stores. Before sewing, I bought two summer cotton blouses from HM and actually they are my absolute favorite summer shirts to this day! I like mixing things up for an outfit--my clothes are made by me, higher and lower end stores. I don't depend on just one location--it is the hunt for a unique accessory/outfit which is fun and allows me to shop wherever! Now I am very picky and have high standards but open to give any place a shot.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-52524208383309575062009-09-16T15:30:57.758-04:002009-09-16T15:30:57.758-04:00Well, I remember my mom - a sewer - always examini...Well, I remember my mom - a sewer - always examining fiber content, seams, linings etc., turning a garment inside out, before buying anything. So she may have made me a better H & M shopper! I have always been a very critical buyer, and have worn most garments out before throwing them away. When I didn't sew much, I bought a lot of these garments at H & M, finding their quality no less than a lot of other "brand names". That said, I certainly wouldn't buy all of their stuff (polyester etc.). And I might have been a less discerning shopper if it hadn't been for the "sewer's lesson"!Utahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06011335110798185030noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-53813276626766739102009-09-16T14:46:19.183-04:002009-09-16T14:46:19.183-04:00I have to agree with Dasha that sometimes quality ...I have to agree with Dasha that sometimes quality storebought clothes are a value.<br /><br />And I also say this because (true confessions) I really like H&M. Some of the designs have been inspiring to me, and I do have some lovely pieces that have lasted forever. I bought a gorgeous wool skirt at an H&M in 2003 and it's still the piece I wear most in the winter. Still beautiful, too.<br /><br />But I think your point is well-made, and I do agree for the most part. "Cheap" fashion benefits no-one-- not the seamstress, not the buyer.Janellenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-24284882943281677692009-09-16T13:47:14.435-04:002009-09-16T13:47:14.435-04:00athough I do shop in stores like H&M, I notice...athough I do shop in stores like H&M, I noticed that since I started sewing regularly (and not just 4 items a year), I really compare what I really need to buy and what I can easily make myself. Going to school, I can't really afford "better" shops, so I buy my basics here and things I can't sew or that would be way more expensive to sew myself.Corinnahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07084548422730907687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-34126407455935746892009-09-16T13:34:01.350-04:002009-09-16T13:34:01.350-04:00If people chose the clothes they bought with as mu...If people chose the clothes they bought with as much care as they planned sewing projects, rather than based primarily on price, your point wouldn't hold. It's the shoppers, not the stores, that are the problem.Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12182601568693232968noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-9534717785812231172009-09-16T12:15:37.279-04:002009-09-16T12:15:37.279-04:00I agree, since stepping into 1955 my fashioin can&...I agree, since stepping into 1955 my fashioin can't ever go back to 2009, in fact 1956 fashion, here I come!50sgalhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09250940806307766624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3259455441759015869.post-26929460429550579202009-09-16T11:57:13.646-04:002009-09-16T11:57:13.646-04:00As the mom of a 14 year old fashion maven, I'm...As the mom of a 14 year old fashion maven, I'm feeling a sense of hope. <br />So far, I haven't been able to get my daughter interested in sewing, but on a recent shopping trip, I was surprised that she skipped over the cute and trendy stuff for the classic and well-made. All her life, she has watched me either making clothes or buying quality items and wearing them year after year after year. She's a smart kid. I guess the lesson is rubbing off.Zeilanoreply@blogger.com