And yet, I must confess: I don't do it myself. Let me clarify: I always press my seams, always. I just press them open only, rather than flat first. Why? Well, readers, I have to tell you: "setting the stitches" sounds like shenanigans to me. What does that even mean? I mean, they're pretty set, right? From, you know, sewing them with a machine? And if they're not "set" (whatever that means), I reckon they'll get set when I press them open.
The two exceptions for me are 1) when students are watching me and I don't want the sewing police to take away my membership and 2) when I notice a little puckering of the seams, I'll press them flat to smooth them.
So, what do you think--is this blasphemy? Do you always always press your seams flat and then open? Or do you agree that this "setting the stitches" thing sounds like a vast sewing conspiracy?
P.S. Also, I got a new iron recently (pictured above). And I realized I haven't written many posts about ironing or irons. Is this something you all would like to discuss or does that actually sound pretty boring?
To be honest, being a self-taught sewist, I've never even heard of pressing flat first! I just jump right into pressing them open... Been seeing a few fiddly technique related blog posts these days and if anything it's made me realise that I'm a pretty lazy and haphazard stitcher! Works for me though.
ReplyDeleteIn terms of iron related discussions, I'd be really interested. Mine leaves a lot to be desired, so I'd love to get some pro-tips!
I've only ever pressed my seams open. I was taught to sew by my grandmother and that's how she taught me. I think the only time I may press a seem flat is when I want the seam to sit a certain way, and then I don't press it open... this is usually on waistbands and collars anyway.
ReplyDeleteI have made it a habbit to press flat first and then open or to a side. It's not about setting stitches or anything, just that I feel it's easier for me to handle the fabric, when it it pressed flat and all neat.
ReplyDeleteI only recently came across the concept of pressing seams flat before pressing them open, I can't remember where though. But I have to say that I believe that you get a better result for the sake of the small extra effort, so I have made it my habit now to do it (well, most of the time anyway!)
ReplyDeleteI'm another self-taught sewist and I tend to only press flat first if I'm working with something particularly picky. I never used to press seams so I figure pressing them open is better than not at all. I know, I am so hardcore...
ReplyDeleteI think I'm with you. I used to only press open (taught to sew by my mother) but with all the hoopla around the internet about press flat then open, I've started doing that. I have to say, I don't really notice a difference as long as I press open. I don't have puckery seams when I just press open.
ReplyDeleteI press dutifully mostly because I love to press :)
ReplyDeleteI actually noticed that, when pressed flat, stitches blend more with the fabric : instead of being on top, they sink a little. But it depends of the fabric, of course.
I believe that the time spent pressing something twice is better spent actually sewing my garment, so this is definitely something I have never bothered to do.
ReplyDeleteAs a quilter, I learned to always press seams to the side. I think it is because you don't want to do anything that will allow the seams to weaken during or after quilting. When I began sewing garments I had to keep remembering to sew them open after.
ReplyDeleteI think an iron post would be great. I just bought a new iron recently too. My mom was surprised because she has never replaced her iron. (I think this is my fifth iron. Maybe because it is on all the time when I am sewing?) It has digital settings. This bothers me because I like the tactile and visual reassurance of a dial. I also hate how quickly the auto-off kicks in. You can see how fascinating I think the topic is.
Having only heard of the 'press first, then open' idea, i spent most of my life just pressing the seams open (or to the side when needed). I have to say i really do notice a difference now that i press the seam first. The key seems to be letting it cool off again before you open it up. Totally worth it in my book.
ReplyDeleteI think the press flat first, then open thing comes from the quilting world, where even the thickness of the thread can make a difference in how the seams match up. Aly V, the reason your mother has never replaced her iron is that she bought it in the era when appliances were made to last, rather than the throw-aways of the current generation. Don't get me started.
ReplyDeleteOh my goodness, I was literally just thinking about this the other day - why do you have to press a seam flat first?! I agree - I recon it's nonsence!
ReplyDeleteSince I read about pressing flat, then open, in Roberta Carr's book, I have been doing that about 80% of the time. I get noticeably better results when I do that. One warning though: it also makes it more difficult to take those stitches out.
ReplyDeleteThe other 20% are muslins, which I only press open, and when I sew knits, which I rarely press during construction unless it's cotton.
I only press open, unless the fabric is particularly fussy, then I may do the double-press technique to see if it helps the seams lie smoother. But for the most part, press once and go works for me.
ReplyDeleteI live in a very (very, very, very) hot place: Rio de Janeiro, and be stand by a hot iron is almost a crazyness... but I'm only beggining to study and learn this. I'm reading all the time to press it flat and tout de suite, open, and I was being convinced that it was "a must do". And you say: don't???? I'll throw off the books.....
ReplyDelete(kkkkkkkkkk)
And the gray guy, is he well?
Beijos.
I don't know whether it "sets" the seam, but I think it makes a difference on most projects. I like to think it tames the fabric.
ReplyDeleteI used to only press flat then open on certain fussy fabrics. However, I noticed a secondary advantage to pressing flat first. After pressing flat, the fabric is warm and more pliable, therefore, easier to manipulate and to get a more accurate open seam with fewer wobbles and bumps when pressing open. I did discover this in the quilting process, of course, when accuracy is essential for matching seams. It is an extra step but what is a few more minutes of pressing to achieve a more professional result.
ReplyDeleteNow, Irons. I have purchased the most expensive irons on the market from major manufacturers and the cheapest from discounters. Currently I have 4 irons priced from $102.00 to $190.00 all spitting water and shutting off for no reason. They are leaving on the next re-cycyling train!!I have a cheapie doing the same thing. I also have to mid-pricers, one steam, one dry that are currently (today) still working. Husband states emphatically that no one burns up more irons than I do. ANY advice is welcome:)All of these irons, count them 7 in all, in a period of 2 years!
Definitely made a difference for me. My seams have that sharper finish. Maybe am not pressing them open properly, but am sticking with this method. As a beginner it has given me such a boost.
ReplyDeleteI press flat first because I really do think it makes a difference. As another commenter said - the stitches sink into the fabric more. I did do a proper test for this some time ago. I had a six paneled skirt and sewed all six seams before ironing any of them so I tried ironing three seams flat then open, and the other three I just ironed open and there was a noticeable difference. The flat then open seams were much smoother.
ReplyDeleteI learned to sew a young age and pressing seams flat first was a step that I was never taught. I agree that it sounds a bit like a shenanigan since I've never encountered any problems by not doing it. Maybe this practice developed before sewing machines were able to back-stitch?
ReplyDeleteI'm really on the fence of it being worth it.
ReplyDeleteI really wanted to drop in to say, I'd love to see some posts about irons. I am in the market for a new one, so I want to hear what ones people like, and if the feel it's necessary to own differnt types (like a steamer and iron, ect)
I really enjoy the little ritual of pressing flat and then open, and I suspect it does make for an uber-neat seam. But I can't claim that makes before I knew of this technique suffered! Ooh, yes, iron posts would be great. I recently struggled with my iron spitting chalky residue over dry clean only lining and received some fascinating responses to my blog post on this topic.
ReplyDeleteAlso being self taught here, I used to only press open. However, I agree with Chris. Quite awhile back when I read about properly pressing seams, and then tried it, I felt I got a much better result when I set the stitches by pressing flat and then open. Especially on certain fabrics like silk. Personally, I can tell when it hasn't been done too because there are residual puckers left in the seam from the stitches not being pressed flat. Granted that's mostly on RTW items though!
ReplyDeleteI'm a 'press open' girl myself; I've heard that 'rule' but ignore it and so far so good.
ReplyDeleteI'd LOVE a post about irons! Mine is on it's last leg and I've got to plan the purchase of a new one (a good one) and hearing what others use and like would narrow the field.
flat and then open, i am somewhat embarrassed to say and possibly mar my rebellious reputation.
ReplyDeleteWould it shock you to know that the iron is a rarely-used item at my house? See, my grandmother taught me to sew. And she was a professional seamstress who *only* used the iron to fix puckered seams. No ironing patterns. No ironing yardage. None of this press-after-every-seam nonsense. In fact, sometimes it's useful to not press things. That's how I make sure collars are perfectly lined up--I used the fold line from the fabric to line them up in the center of dresses. Then again, I never even owned a sewing book until I won one a couple years back in a sewing contest, and I've never paid for lessons. And well, even my lessons with grandma were abbreviated with her living on the west coast and me on the east!
ReplyDeleteBy "setting" the stitch line first with the flat press it does make the pressing open easier and crisper. think of it like folding a piece of paper prior to tearing it. I encourage my students to enjoy the pressing process because they will be spending a lot of time at the ironing board. After all it is there that you get to admire your work, take a moment while you are pressing to assess the quality of your stitch line.
ReplyDeleteI am mostly self taught, I mean, I learned a lot from my mom, but not garments. I didn't know to press flat then open until reading blogs. I'm pretty halfhazard about it now.
ReplyDeleteMy mom taught me to sew and was a stickler for pressing seams open so its something that I always do, my sister too we kinda giggle about it. But I didn't know it was suppose to set the stiches? I just did it cause mom said it made for a better finished product.
ReplyDeleteI always press flat first and then open. I think it's true that it 'sets' the stitches: if you try to unpick the seam without having pressed it, it comes apart easily, but if you try to unpick after having 'set' the stitches, it's much trickier. My opinion is if you're going to press a seam open, you should press it flat first. It isn't a 'necessity', but it's best practice.
ReplyDeleteDuring the first few years of learning how to sew I always opened my seams without pressing them flat first. Did this because I never heard about pressing flat until I watched Nancy Zieman (host of Sewing with Nancy on PBS). After learning this extra step from the show, I went to my ironing board and gave this thing a try. I noticed right away that the heat and moisture from the iron helps the fabric fibers to be scored or imprinted by the machine stitching. Just like you would score a piece of paper with your fingernail along a straight edge to help create a crisp, straight fold line.
ReplyDeleteI remember Nancy Zieman saying that she prefers pressing the seams flat before opening them because the iron helps "mold" the stitches into the fabric.
Whatever the case may be, I've noticed the seam shifts less when that initial pressing is done and I believe it is a good practice when pressing curved seams but it is not something that has to be done every time you press.
Rebekah
I never knew there was a rule about pressing flat first, I always go straight to open lol Anyway, if I'm going to the effort of actually digging out the iron (I don't iron my clothes) I wouldn't want to overdo it ;o)
ReplyDeleteSeeing as I'm kind of a hazardous iron-er, I'm definitely open to hearing more about what features to buy in an iron. I opted years ago to buy a super-cheap iron. Little did I know I'd be going back into sewing and then needing the darn thing fairly regularly. I do press my seams flat, then to the dark side especially when quilting. I tend to do the flat seam thing then opening it when sewing serious projects.
ReplyDeleteI like to press flat, and then flip the top layer over with my iron on the RIGHT side, opening the right side of the item and keeping allowances to one side underneath. If a seam isn't straight, the proof is revealed! It's a quilting thing that I also use in garment sewing. Then, if I want them open, I'll do that.
ReplyDeleteI really LIKE pressing. I don't know if it makes a difference to the item, but it makes my day!
Yes please on iron posts, mine is about to die (or maybe be killed if it spits on anthing again!) so I'd love to know what to look for! At the moment I'm just thinking a sole plate I can clean should it get fusible gunk on it and someting with LOTS of steam and a bit of heft to it.
ReplyDeleteOn the whole flat then open thing, I am a follwer. I think it's on Gorgeous Thing's blog where she made two identical shirts (for threads magasine) and showed what no pressing and pressing did for the finished item. Like others, the pressing flat first bit does seem to sink the stitches into the fabric and the heat and steam makes opening the fabric out a lot easier which for me at least results in a better finish.
But at the same time there doesn't always seem to be a 'right way' or a 'wrong way' in sewing, which I think applies in this case so maybe it's what ever works best for you!
Please post about pressing! I hate it (though half of that is not having a proper ironing board but rather one of those tiny dorm room sized ones that just lays on the floor.) and I need someone to prod me in the direction of the iron once in a while.
ReplyDeleteI tend to press half flat, then open, if that makes any sense. My grandmother showed me this trick whereby you press with one side flat, but folded over on the other. That way, by the time you open up, you've got a perfect crease down one side already, and the other falls into line without any problem.
ReplyDeleteIt also works wonders if you're trying to press both sides down along the seam for a pillowcase or a double sided scarf for instance.
I'm self-taught and I press open all the type, I've never pressed flat, didn't even know I was 'supposed' to!
ReplyDeleteI was iron-less until a few weeks ago so I never did this - I very rarely pressed my seams open with my hair's flat-iron.
ReplyDeleteNow that I actually have an iron I use it when fabric is being difficult. But I still think it's a relic of the days when everything had to be ironed.
I would love to hear more about irons. Currently I'm working with a $7 iron I've had for the past four years. I'm a self-taught sewist, so I might try the press flat then open on the quilt I'm working on.
ReplyDeleteI love how you address these issues :) I used to just press open, and then I started reading on blogs that I was supposed to be pressing flat first. Now I do it some of the time. Maybe I'll just keep it as a fancy press technique to use when I sew fancy clothes. I only get snatches of time to sew while the two year old is sleeping or occupied, and I don't want to spend them pressing!
ReplyDeleteFlat, but not necessarily open. I flat-fell a lot of stuff as a seam finish, so pressing open isn't always what I want, but I definitely iron all my seams (except maybe armscye seams and other weirdly-shaped ones).
ReplyDeleteI remain a committed iron-er, though. It helps me make sure stuff lines up right, etc. I've never heard of setting stitches or whatever, but it doesn't matter since I have my own reasons for ironing.
I think the phrase 'to set the stitches' is misleading. We should say 'to blend (or mold) the stitches into the fabric'. So it does depend a bit on the fabric. I'm not sure how much difference it would make on a synthetic knit, for instance, although with an overlocked seam I'd definitely press flat first before pressing as flat as poossible from the right side. And it would be interesting to know whether people mostly press flat from both sides?
ReplyDeleteI would love a post on irons, as I have a super-cheapie and could use a good one for making garments. Also, how about a post on pressing spaces/tables in general? My ironing board is TOO SMALL and it takes forever to press out fabric before cutting! I need a better set-up (never mind that my ironing board is in a different room than my cutting/sewing room)!
ReplyDeleteI'd love to see posts on irons, pressing, etc. Particularly with details on how, exactly, to press in difficult or tight situations. Setting in sleeves, etc. etc.
ReplyDeleteI'm with you. I only press the stitches to set them when someone else is watching. I usually have to make a habit of it if I'm working in a costume shop but on my own stuff I'd never press my seams open.
ReplyDelete1) I always press open and that does a good enough job of setting my stitches....well, nothing's ever unravelled on me so it must do.
ReplyDelete2) I'd love a post on irons and ironing. :)
I've taught myself how to sew about two years ago, and I had never heard of pressing flat until recently. Actually, I just read in "Couture Sewing Techniques" that pressing flat sinks the stitches into the fabric, but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet.
ReplyDeleteI thought everyone was supposed to press flat then press open, per the sewing police. I didn't know it was legal to just press open.... heh
ReplyDeleteI'm now firmly rooted in the habit of pressing flat then open. I'm not sure why, but I didn't even think it was an option to press open directly. :)
I'd love an iron post, I'm hoping ot take the plunge and finally buy a "good" one this weekend! What kind did you buy?
ReplyDeleteI first heard of pressing flat and then open from Ann of Gorgeous Fabric's Pressinatrix post. After trying it, I do think my seams look just a little better. And given my general lack of skill, I take better any way I can get it...
ReplyDeleteOh, and I'd love to hear opinions on irons. I have a run of the mill iron which seems to work fine, but as I've never used anything else, maybe I just don't know what I'm missing.
Hahaha Gertie - I teach sewing also and do EXACTLY the same thing! If I press flat first it is kind of by accident. How much difference can it really make?
ReplyDeleteI never press my seams flat and then press them open, but judging from this post I probably should.
ReplyDeleteYes, an iron post would be great!
The main reason I press seems is that it makes it easier to sew the hems. I only press the seems on items that I'm going to sell.
ReplyDeleteI never press flat, then open - just open. (Even when I'm quilting :-) ) I keep thinking I should give it a try and see if there is a difference. It really bothers me though when I see a homemade garment that would look sooo much better if any pressing of seams had been done.
ReplyDeleteMy local Fabricland has samples hanging in the store - presumably made by employees - and I can't stand that some of them don't have pressed seams. Are they trying to encourage or discourage people from sewing at home.
As for irons - I never use the steam feature. I have a spray bottle of water to dampen before I iron. I think it's a result of encountering too many irons that leave rust spots behind (no water in the iron, no rusting). As a result, I buy the cheapest iron I can with the highest wattage I can find. I am a firm believer that high heat is the most important feature and that's a result of wattage. My current iron is a 1400w T-Fal that I've had for at least 10 years. And no auto shut-off. I can't stand that feature when I'm sewing.
Krista
I press my seams open; and I figure that will set them just fine. Heat + steam = set.
ReplyDeleteAlso I love my iron and would love to go on and on about it. Pressing is big deal to me; if my sewing is kinda puckery -- hooray iron. Darts looking weird -- love the steam. I would be lost without my iron; I figure it is just 'cause I am such an amateur at sewing that I rely so heavily on my iron to make things better.
I do "set" the stitches with the iron, every time. It honestly seems to help, sort of melding the stitches down into the fabric. I notice a definite difference when I don't do it.
ReplyDeleteI'm taking a sewing class from an LA fashion person (retired, credentialed, often cranky) - my first class since high school - and she calls me a "home sewer" because i press seams. She doesn't mean it as a compliment, either. She also refuses to allow me to clip curves in her presence. Or use pins. I like the exercise. But I am a home sew-er and get better results when I press the seam flat, then open.
ReplyDeleteReading the comments has been quite informative. Personally, I find that pressing in general makes a huge difference in the level of professional look that I get. I for one would be interested in a post about it.
ReplyDelete@ Corrine: Spitting irons are usually a sign of calcium deposits in the iron -- they're a natural hazard of boiling water for steam. If you have hard water (high in minerals), that's the problem. You don't have to use distilled water or anything, just grab a couple of old towels and fold them up, then fill your iron about half-way with a mix of 50% white vinegar and 50% water. Iron those towels until the iron runs dry (warning - this can be stinky) and hit the steam burst button a few times. You'll probably see white flakes of calcium come loose. Rinse out the iron with fresh water and they should be back to normal, or closer. (If they're really clogged, it may take 2-3 cycles) When they start getting balky, give them a vinegar cycle.
ReplyDeleteI learned to sew a long time ago in 4H and I never heard of pressing flat first until recently. I now do it occasionally, but I don't know if it makes any difference.
ReplyDeleteI almost always flat press seams first regardless of where I'm going with them next i.e. french seam, flat felled or open.
ReplyDeleteI think it does set stitches, especially in wools but also it sets any ease better as well.
Please discuss irons. I have the worst hand-me-down iron that leaks all over my fabric when it's on the steam setting. I'm on the lookout for a great iron.
ReplyDeleteI am horrible at pressing seams, especially in the middle of sewing a garment. I tend to only iron as needed ( hems, darts...)
ReplyDeleteYou know, when it comes to any sort of skill, whether it is sewing or playing a musical instrument or speaking a language, one will continually seek improvement to the extent the need is perceived.
ReplyDeleteI am convinced that is the difference between different levels of mastery. For example, you probably write much better than I do because you perceive the difference between pretty good and really good.
I think that it is absolutely necessary to iron after you've stitched, not the "set the seams", thats ridiculous, but to set the fabric into its new shape. Sometimes when you don't press a seam, the fit of the garment will appear fit odd because it has not been opened up to the seams, it will just fold open. Does that make sense? Its been so long since I've read a book that I forget correct terminology. Whether you press the seams open or press them flat, it is so important to do so to show the fabric where it is going to go. Plus once you do it in the beginning, you really never have to press it on that seam again - ever! xx.L
ReplyDeleteI press flat, then press open. It looks so much better than just pressing open.
ReplyDeleteWhen I read http://gorgeousfabrics.com/blog/2011/01/18/and-now-a-word-from-the-pressinatrix/
I learned about pressing from both sides. It hadn't occurred to me, but that looks even better.
It doesn't take that much extra time, and the results are better than RTW. It's why we sew, right?
Put me in the category of self-taught seamstresses who never realized this was a rule. In fact, I just came across this instruction for the first time in the pattern of my current project - A vintage 1960s sheath dress. I confess I ignored it because I didn't see the point! But if this is really a "thing" I'll have to try it on my next garment!
ReplyDeleteHa! I do exactly the same when I'm teaching- even with the "setting" spiel! When I'm alone i never do both, sometimes i dont even press straight away...shhhhhhhhh, dont tell anyone!
ReplyDeleteI just had this conversation with my mom. I basically self-taught, a lot of what she says goes over my head. She was talking about pressing my stitches and I thought she meant that my finished project was wrinkled. Then she said that you really are sewing something until you set your your stitches by pressing your seams.
ReplyDeleteI've tried it, and it's mostly just tiring. But I think that I will stick with that technique when I'm making something for someone else.
I always press flat first then open. Old habits die hard.
ReplyDeleteHow I miss out on this stuff I do not know but I've been sewing for 65 years and never ever heard of press seams flat to set them. All this time I've been pressing them open! Irons, that a tough one and I still am not happy with the 'good' iron I presently have, a discuss would be of interest.
ReplyDeleteI press flat, then open, mostly because I love procedures, recipes, etc. But also, i do think it looks better.
ReplyDeleteI would love an iron discussion. I just spent a fortune on a new iron and ironing board and had a devil of a time trying to find out what was actually good and what was just hype and gadgetry. The other irritating thing is, you find a good iron and then it is discontinued, or the model changes so much it's not even the same dependable iron!
Quilty things get pressed to the side. Clothes things get pressed open. I use a clapper for that. I don't think I've heard of flat, then open. Seems like extra work. Also, depending on the fabric, you may press in a seam allowance line into the garment. I'll try it on a few things and see. It may help control the wiggly fabrics.
ReplyDeleteAlways press flat and then press open. That is the mantra in my class.
ReplyDeleteWhen you say "set" it is the term that I refer to as “embed”.
I describe the method as follows: when you first press flat, you are allowing the heat and steam from the iron to relax (think reset) the fibers in the fabric. These fibers have just been squished and distorted from the presser foot of the machine while making the stitching line. Then you are going to press open the seam allowances embedding the stitching line within the fabric once again with the heat and steam, creating that amazing crisp seam.
I never heard of pressing flat first.
ReplyDeleteAs for ironing/pressing. I love it. I think it might be because I can create calm from chaos or that it's meditative, but I enjoy the process - both while sewing and with a pile of clothes and a pile of hangers.
I press flat first, then press open. I would love to see something about irons. I have killed two in the last year. I think it's because they stay on for hours while I sew. Trying to find any small appliance today that doesn't have an auto-shut off is like trying to find a needle in a haystack.
ReplyDeleteSometimes I do, most times I don't.
ReplyDeleteMost of the time (i.e. if I can't tell the difference) I think pressing flat is a waste of time. I might be able to improve my pressing technique but my appreciation of the finished garment is not yet refined enough to make it worthwhile. However, this article (linked elsewhere in your comments too: http://gorgeousfabrics.com/blog/2011/01/18/and-now-a-word-from-the-pressinatrix/) did sell me on pressing flat on the most demanding fabrics. Check out the pictures of the silk charmeuse ... it almost makes me think that I could handle silk charmeuse someday.
ReplyDeleteWe just went over this in my sewing class for making a trench coat. I think it can make things more crisp, especially for tailored jackets and pants. I am an instant-gratification sewer, so I only do it ocassionally.
ReplyDelete"Do you always always press your seams flat and then open?"
ReplyDeleteYes. I always press from the side the seam was sewn, and sometimes from the other side. It does set the stitches and it makes it easier to open up the seam and press it flat.
I had never heard of pressing flat first until this past year. I immediately started doing so. I have noticed a definite difference since changing my approach and am very pleased with the results. I think it is kind of like Corrine said- the fabric is warm and pliable and just works better.
ReplyDeleteI used to just press open, but now I press flat to "marry" the stitches to the fabric (as Claire Shaeffer calls it), and then press open. I notice a difference, particularly on fabrics with more texture (woolens, heavier cottons).
ReplyDeleteI also find that if I don't press flat first, then I tend to press the whole seam later, and get an impression. If I press flat, then I only need to press the seam using the seam roll later.
I am sure I could get pretty good results without pressing flat though. The one "fancy" pressing trick that I can't do without is the use of a pressing cloth. It has saved my fabrics - and when I forget it I am sorry.
I admit, I have always pressed each seam this way (flat first on both sides), and never vary.
ReplyDeleteDon't hate me...I'm a child of the 50s who grew up ironing (in the pre-polyester days) almost everything. It was one of the female domestic tasks I was taught a long, long time ago. I remember ironing any and everything cotton--lots of pillowcases, sheets, tshirts, and my dad's boxers. Eventually it became a way of life and a meditative part of my life.
I have a friend who sews for a living and proudly shows me the completed prom dresses and church suits she creates. She never irons anything before the entire garment is completed, however. I never understood how she ever had any return customers. It seemed to me a horrible waste of her time and talent..and a testament to the value of my own ironing attitude. :)
In the end, I feel the result of our handwork should always represent the very best we can produce...don't you agree?
Always flat, then open here. I can't remember who drilled this into me (a teacher at Sew Fast, Sew Easy, I think?) but it DOES seem to make a difference. And please DO talk about pressing, I am trying to learn to love it but I really struggle with it sometimes...
ReplyDeleteYes, I would love a post about irons. I am in the market for a quality iron with a separate water tank. There don't seem to be that many choices. I've read reviews that refer to superior European options, but haven't had any luck finding them.
ReplyDeleteOh, and I iron seams flat, then open.
I only recently started studying to become a seamstress, and no teacher at my school has mentioned anything about ironing flat first...How interesting, I shall have to ask them about this! Btw we have some wonderful irons at school, or steam machines might be a better word. There's even a suction system to cool the fabric off so that you don't have to touch hot fabric! Anyway, a post about irons and ironing sounds interesting!
ReplyDeleteI'm a shortcut girl, so I go right for the 'press open' step. When I first started sewing, I had the worse iron ever. Now I have almost the exact one that you have pictured, and it makes all the difference in the world! I think having a really good iron is as important as having a good sewing machine.
ReplyDeleteI´m a seamstress and I have been teached to press flat first! But to say the truth, I only do it with very thin material, like silk satin, the lining, taffeta............
ReplyDeleteNot only do I press flat and then open, but then I flip the garment over/right-side-out and press the seam again from the right side over a seam roll. IMHO, the results are definitely better both as I'm constructing the garment and over it's lifespan (through multiple wearings, laundering, re-ironing, hanging in the closet, etc).
ReplyDeleteI always press flat first, then open from the wrong side and open from the right side with a press cloth. I think pressing properly really does make the difference between a professional looking garment and a home made one. It doesn't take much more time at all and I do enjoy pressing. Using tools such as a ham, seam roll and clapper also big a big impact on the outcome of a garment.
ReplyDeleteAs for irons, I have had three Rowentas, never again though! They are not made well and are way overpriced imho. I picked up a Hamilton Beach "retro" iron for $25. and it works very well, no spitting and the auto shut off is 1 hour instead of the annoying couple of minutes most are.
I have always pressed my seams only once (open). This is how my mother taught me and it has always served me well. Rarely, I may flip the seam over and press on the right side, if the fabric is being surly.
ReplyDeleteyeahhhh let's talk irons!
ReplyDeleteThis is such a timely post. I too wonder why you have to iron both ways.
DeleteI would love to hear about irons. I have been using the same $20 Panasonic since I got married 10 years ago. A few weeks ago I dropped it on my kitchen's tile floor and it bent the tip. Now I have to iron very carefully so the smooshed tip doesn't snag my fabric.
10,000 years ago (give or take) when I learned to sew professionally I was taught to press flat, cool, press open. The rationale was that pressing flat set the just stitched seam flat and into the fibers of the fabric, thus making the thread of the seam more invisible. On some fabrics it makes a LOT of difference. I cheat often-but in my heart, I know it is done for a reason.
ReplyDeleteYup, blasphemy. But my students call me (affectionately, I think) the Pressing Nazi. But a poorly pressed garment screams happy hands at home. It only adds a few minutes to the time to make a garment. Why wouldn't you want the best results? As Cynthia Guffey says, "It's your hobby; what's your hurry?"
ReplyDeleteI was taught by a woman who worked with Saville Row and she never mentioned it, so I suppose it's balls!
ReplyDeleteThe benefits of pressing techniques change with the fabric you're working on. With cotton it is press flat first, it does flatten the stitches and makes a sharper edge join when opened and pressed again. With certain types of wool, you press flat, then press the all sa's to one side, and then all the to other side before opening it up. I makes quite a difference in the way the seam looks.
ReplyDeleteI suppose you must be working on fabric that shows no difference in you pressing techniques??? But teaching the correct rules will only help your students avoid problems and who doesn't want to avoid problems?
There are 96 posts above mine and one of them tells how to clean an iron with vinegar so it won't get clogged up and spit. Everyone who doesn't know this already should memorize it.
ReplyDeleteRe irons: a few years ago I bought a Delonghi iron with the pressurized steam generator for my daughter who sews commercially and was going through hardware store irons in a matter of weeks. Having tried hers out, I promptly bought one of my own. It's great to have powerful steam regardless of how hot the iron is and without needing to touch the iron to the fabric. Kathryn
ReplyDeleteI agree with Ann, Mary Beth and the others who Press Flat First. I think it makes a HUGE difference.
ReplyDeleteAs a professional ShirtMaker, I shudder to think of what my flat-felled shirt seams would look if I didn't press flat *first* then press the seams *open* before felling. It makes a big difference on shirt collars, cuffs, and also the appropriate seams on tailored garments...in my professional opinion.
When I teach shirtmaking or tailoring, I constantly remind my students to P-F-F (Press Flat First)
I love the steamy sound of the iron. I press them flat then open. I even find the slightly warmed flat pressed seam is easier to pull open for the second press.
ReplyDeleteI would LOVE and iron post. My iron is my partner's old iron from when he first left home, not really a dream iron.
I've always done both pressings. It seems to make a sharper, neater seam. It's more difficult to press the seam open neatly, if it hasn't been pressed flat first.
ReplyDeletei press them flat then open, especially with lighter weight fabrics. it's not that hard to press a little pinch of extra fabric if you don't and then twice as hard to remove the press marks on the little pinch of fabric that shouldn't have happened to begin with.
ReplyDeleteI only ever press flat if there are bumps, like you said. I had never even heard of pressing flat until a while ago, I was fairly self-taught. It is an interesting thought...
ReplyDeleteMy mother taught me either/or. But you can never press too much, as long as your temperature is right. There are a few fabric exceptions that require extra handling. Perhaps this is a case of the exception influencing the new rule?
ReplyDeleteI thought it went without saying that pressing first from the side the seam was stitched, and then pressing the seam open was only the first step.
ReplyDeleteAs some others have said, you always press again from the right side over a seam roll, using a press cloth if necessary.
Depending on the fabric, you may need to use a clapper. With some seams, particularly in wool, you need to use a moist pressing cloth under the iron to meld the seam, instead of using the steam from the iron.
JMAC:
ReplyDeleteI think you can press too much, even with a low temperature. Any garment looks better the less the fabric is handled. The point of preparation and practice is to do the minimum necessary to get the required result.
Of course, the fabric of choice for beginners is stable, durable cotton because it's more forgiving. But if you look at a range of students' work, you can tell who has experience.
The more experienced students' garments look barely touched, as if they'd been bought in a store. The fabric of the absolute beginners' projects looks a bit fatigued.
I'm self taught and I have habitually pressed flat first. I think it makes it easier to handle the fabric if it is warmish.
ReplyDeleteI love your blog!
PS: what kind of iron is that? I like the shape.
Does anyone have tips on getting good crisp/flat seams on synthetics? I'm usually a fiber snob myself, but I had to have this crazy yellow for my latest project (and I wasn't up for dying my own), and the closest match I found was a polyester taffeta, and man it just sucks on the pressing front. I've pressed flat and then open, I've used a presscloth, steam, dry, crank the heat up etc, and they just don't look crisp. In fact you can hardly tell I tried.
ReplyDeleteYou "seam" to have picked a topic people have opinions about! And Yes, I'd like to see a post on irons.
ReplyDeleteSue
SuesSewingStudio.blogspot.com
Bit late to the party, but I would *love* a post on ironing while sewing, and how ironing is used (or not used?) in the creation of couture garments. My mom taught me to sew and as an adult I've learned mostly from the internet. Mom didn't make a big deal about ironing things during the construction phase (as opposed to before you wear it), so I feel like I'm missing out on this essential part of fashion sewing.
ReplyDeleteHmmm, I don't think I press open...but certainly after each sewn bit. But I'm an oddball that doesn't really mind pressing, I find it kinda zen!
ReplyDeleteAnd yes, absolutely, iron recommendations! I've been meaning to get a new, nice iron for a while and just haven't gotten around to it yet.
I'm self-taught so I didn't even know it was a "rule" until recently! I do tend to press straight seams flat then open because it seems to give me a better press. I never bother on bits like darts though, even if that is when I most commonly see it mentioned.
ReplyDeleteAs for irons, I'm in need of a new one so, sure, please post away! :-)
Huh. To be honest I'd never heard that before - I learned sewing from my high school teacher who had very strict ideas about the importance of pressing absolutely everything, but she never mentioned anything other than pressing seams open. I've never run into trouble just pressing my seams open (to be honest, I don't know what I'd be looking for in a 'set' stitch anyway...) I might give it a try next time I'm sewing to see if it makes a difference though, I'll report back if it does.
ReplyDeleteWell, after 115 comments: I just press open (not flat)...
ReplyDeleteI agree though to do it the 'right way' when teaching someone.
I never do press flat first; I always just press open.ut now that I see comments from people who say that you get better results, I might try it. Maybe this requires a side-by-side test with different types of fabric!
ReplyDeleteHa, I certainly never press seams flat myself first, but I DID recently stumble across a blog post on Gorgeous Fabrics about why it is so important, along with pictures demonstrating the difference it makes: http://gorgeousfabrics.com/blog/2011/01/18/and-now-a-word-from-the-pressinatrix/
ReplyDeletePressing-I don't always do it (especially with knits as I use a stretch stitch that encloses the edge) but sometimes I do - whatever seems to work.
ReplyDeleteIrons - I have a crappy iron and want to buy a nice one that is not too pricey but won't just die on me in a year and a half. So any iron advice would be good.
Iron talk sounds sexy ;0 let's have some please
ReplyDeleteYes, yes on talking more about ironing and irons. Personally I press open unless there's some wonkitude I need to address first.
ReplyDeleteI always was taught to press them open, but now that i am an adult, I have gotten lazy and dont even press them. My work does suffer though, I am going to be purchasing a small iron so I can start pressingthem again. It just makes the garment more clean looking
ReplyDeleteCome visit my blog : www.sweetsurrenderart.com
See you there!
Hi Gertie!...
ReplyDeleteThis thread had generated a lot of responses, so a post on irons and ironing may be worthwhile. Just don't forget to include an important component to the process....include instructions on building the perfect ironing surface (aka ironing board). The best iron on the wrong surface is otherwise a futile exercise!
In fashion college, our teachers taught us to always press the seam flat first, then press open or to one side. It does make a difference, but personally I think it is much depending on the fabric. I usually just press seams open or to one side and only press flat first when I think it necessary.
ReplyDeleteA professional bespoke tailor is doing a series on pressing over the next several weeks.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.englishcut.com/2012/01/06/pressed-into-action/
I am with the "flat first, then open" crowd; it was how my mother taught me. I didn't take Sewing in the 7th grade like the other girls. My mother arranged for me to take WoodShop with the boys, since I already was sewing some of my own clothes and it was after all 1975 and Gloria and Betty had told us we had a point to prove. So I don't know what the Sewing teacher was teaching.
ReplyDeleteI tend to pick up books on sewing when I can, and they do always advise the same way. I've even seen it in 5 steps: 1)press seam flat on one side; 2)then the other; 3)open the seam, right side down and seam allowances sticking up and press both seam allowances to one side; 4) then both to the other side; and finally 5) press seam allowances open. Whew! I'm sure it's worth it, and I'm going to try to remember to try it.
I know that even though my mother taught me "flat, then open", I used to cheat, and found out the hard way that I couldn't always get my open seam allowances to lie flat if I didn't press flat first, with gentle traction on the seam itself to relax any puckers
I have been disappointed with irons ever since I left the industrial iron at the costume shop I used to sew in. I would love to find something for home sewing that worked half as well.
ReplyDeleteSave time and your iron... 1 step only!!! Why bother... besides... the less extra steps you take now... could end up giving you all sorts of time for that "next" project!Hmmmm?
ReplyDeleteMay I make a suggestion? Read your booklet that came with your iron... I found out something I had never known! My Rowenta booklet said to use 1/2 distilled water and 1/2 tap water apparently it saves it from having sooo many problems! We have lots of minerals in our water here... just a thought!
Um, I don't actually press much... Terrible, I know. And my work is far from the quality of yours, so perhaps I ought to press more.
ReplyDeleteAnyhow, I have heard to press to one side, then open, but I only ever do that if the fabric is really fiddly. It seems to make it easier to get a good fold line if you press it one way first. I don't know why.
Oh, yeah, Irons! I'm on my second, but I still have the first and it works as well as the day I bought it. #1 is a $10 Black and Decker iron bought at Target(?) when I left home for school. #2 I picked up from Costco for about $35 a couple years ago, because husband likes to have his own. Turns out every time I get gunk on my iron, he tries to use it immediately afterward. He hates leftover iron gunk on his shirts. :(
ReplyDeleteWhat a great couple of topics!
ReplyDeleteI am in the press flat first camp. Probably because I am a bit of a perfectionist. ;)
Irons? Don't get me started. I saw myself in Corrine's comment, so I'll just say "Ditto" to what she said. Why, oh why, cannot someone make an iron that does not leak or spit???
i've never ever heard of pressing them flat first. just press them open, and then maybe back together if they need to sit in the same direction or for finishing or something.
ReplyDeleteBut yes - irons are such an important topic. i can't believe how i used to sew without an iron. i am so pleased you mentioned it because none of my non sewing friends like to hear about my iron...
i've never ever heard of pressing them flat first. just press them open, and then maybe back together if they need to sit in the same direction or for finishing or something.
ReplyDeleteBut yes - irons are such an important topic. i can't believe how i used to sew without an iron. i am so pleased you mentioned it because none of my non sewing friends like to hear about my iron...
setting it helps in quilting, when you are pressing the seams to one side.
ReplyDeleteI adore my Rowena iron, it's incredible. I had never heard of pressing flat first, but I can see where it would help set the initial seam for a better open press.
ReplyDeleteI press first, seems like the seams are easier to work with, and look better when I do.
ReplyDeleteLove to hear more about irons also!
Being taught by my mother, who was professionally taught, I never heard about flat and then open until recently, so I'm not convinced!
ReplyDeleteI usually don't, I never even heard of it as a rule until about a month ago. But then, I also tend to serge my seam allowances together unless it's something I might want to make alterations so I suppose I press them flat as a default. Although my sewing instructor/family friend is a theatrical costumer by trade and I don't think I've ever seen her press flat and then open, so I wonder if the rule comes more from home sewing or professional sewing.
ReplyDeleteYep, would like to talk irons please....
ReplyDeleteI can't see a difference when I press flat first, I'm not sure what setting the stitches really means either, I just press open and it looks fine to me. I love irons and am secretly waiting for my perfectly decent one to fail so I've an excuse to splurge on a super flash one :)
ReplyDeleteOh, please do a post on ironing! Especially which types of irons are good. Also, if you have any tips for not dragging your fabric around when ironing it on the board, that would be awesome! I'm just in the middle of a silk bias cut top and the ironing thing has me all upset!
ReplyDeleteMy instructors & TAs tell me they can tell if I press correctly or not, so I do it just like they say!
ReplyDeleteA few ladies said it well, flat then open. Yes, information on types of irons would be great.
ReplyDeleteI usually press side to side before opening not because of the setting thing - agreed, whut? - but because depending on the seam and the fabric it can reduce the chance of that phenomenon where there's little creases parallel to the stitching (ie. where you kind of press a few millimetres to the side of your stitching instead of *on* the stitching).
ReplyDeleteDepends on the project and the fabric.
ReplyDeleteIt does seem to make the stitches sort of sink into the fabric and become less obvious if you do press flat first. Sometimes it also seems to make the seam more flexible,even if it's just a tiny bit.
Sounds like people do their pressing every which way. I think the important thing is pressing at all, and pressing (up and down motion of the iron) versus ironing (dragging the iron across the fabric and moving it around), the later can stretch your garment out of shape. Do tell us about irons; I have a Rowenta and an Oliso.
ReplyDeleteLike many of the commenters, since I'm self taught, I didn't know about this. I'll have to look it up and give it a try.
ReplyDeleteI always press them flat. Always. On both sides! It seems blasphemy not to. Of course, I've always been a follow the rules girl and that's how I was taught. The thought that I could do it another way...I don't know. It might be the beginning of the end of everything!
ReplyDeleteI am mostly self taught, but when I told my mother I was learning to sew, the only thing she really had to say was "press everything, all the time, or your garments won't look any good". I tend to google every new skill obsessively so I definitely picked up the pressing flat thing from the sewing police! That said, I wont change - I just can't appreciate how the garment is coming together unless it's perfectly ironed after each step! And yes, I know that it's obsessive! >.<
ReplyDeleteI will press flat first, if I remember.
ReplyDeleteI am much more interested in iron discussions. Mine decided to die on me -- well not die, but leak profusely everytime I turn the iron down to use it. Needless to say I need a replacement before I can continue sewing.
I'm taking a beginning sewing class at a school with a pretty well respected technical apparel design program and we were just taught to only press open. I feel like my teacher knows his stuff, he certainly has been doing it a long time!
ReplyDeleteI've been taught to press flat one way and then the other and then press open. It makes pressing them open so much easier.
ReplyDeleteI have never heard of pressing flat first. I am going to give it a try - I too am interested in the results.
ReplyDeleteBeing a seamstress, I love to press my seams open. I feel it gives a more professional feel to the seam because it is not bulky but smooth. This is something I am always teaching my students.
ReplyDeleteVeronica
Bella Jean Boutique
Hi there,
ReplyDeleteHaving been taught to always press the seam the first time closed, and then open............
and then not doing so........
........I have to say, I really believe from what I see, that the first press does imbed the stitching, and then pressing the seam open afterwards completes a much better look to the seam......
I have checked it out and do really think that the seam looks better if you "set" it first by pressing the seam flat and then open.
Using vintage rose fabric and using it for appliques is a good concept for alteration of patterned designs of ready made dress. I was taught to sew by my mother and today I am teaching the same art to my daughter. I always prefer to keep the seem flat.
ReplyDeleteI press all my seams flat first slavishly from BOTH sides, but I am completely convinced it is nonsense. I've read all the explanations in all the couture sewing books I own: "it is to meld stitches into fabric.. run a finger along your stitches before and after pressing... feel the difference"...really? I've run my fingers along every imaginable line of stitches before and after pressing and ZILCH. No difference. It must be some cult or something.
ReplyDeleteA little late I know but to be honest I don't press every seam at the time of sewing. A factory sewer showed me how to pull the seam along the each of the table and that does a pretty good job then I press when a section is done.
ReplyDelete